Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Explain the 53 block to me...

[steved]

Buying a 99 3500, remind me about the 53 block again... how do I identify it, is it a major deal breaker?



Thanks



(I did search, but the local access I'm on right now wouldn't allow it to work)

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Not a 53 block expert but usually a large "53" cast in the block just above the oil pan rail at the front on the driver's side. The issue is one of the foundries casting the 53 block didn't mold in a stiffening rib in the water jacket area approximately in the middle on the passenger side. Not all 53 blocks were cast at the same foundry so not all 53 blocks had this defect, but I don't think there's a way you can tell by casting numbers.

Cummins engineers basically said the likelyhood of failure is proportional to engine stress/load, the harder it's worked the more likely it'll crack.

Vaughn

 

[FourBarR]

The 53 block can be identified by looking under the left front wheel ,look up under the injection pump there is a large 53 stamped in te block. Hard to see and you will need a flashlight. My 98. 5 has a 53 block with 524,000 kms (323,000 k) If you tow heavy or mod the engine fo more power you will increase the chances of cracking. Lots of methods have been tried to fix the crack,most if not all were not succesful.

 

[steved]

Hmmm, I ask because I'm pretty sure I'm buying this 99 3500... under 100k but used primarily to tow a 5vr. It does have a towing "chip" added.

I owned a 99 at one point, and my dad still does... but I have forgotten most of what I learned about them since I've been in this 3rd gen.

I just remembered the 53 block, the lift pump, and KDP??? I sort of remember an issue with the PS pump popping off its drive gear, track bar, etc... got to learn it all over again!

 

[DFerverda]

Post 23 has a pdf file that has a bunch of pictures, and where to look for the crack.
My 98. 5 has just short of 260k without a problem.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...2/128401-i-just-fixed-my-cracked-block-2.html

 

[jgillott]

I had an early 2001 that had a 53 block. I sold it in 2007 without issue to that point. That truck had literally dozens if not hundreds of passes down the track, several pulls on the dyno, etc. and it held together. Several of the other guys here had 53 block trucks that did crack..... some driven as hard as mine was, and others treated very well. As others said, it really seems to be luck of the draw.

 

[drag racer]

I wouldn't say the "53" block is a deal breaker, but you should keep the thought on the back of your mind if your intent is to keep the truck for a long time, factoring in a new engine swap down the line...

 

[VicR]

Its not impossible, but very very hard to find a 98. 5, 99, or 00 without the 53. Good luck with your purchase - what are the other details of the truck?

 

[AlaskanCummins]

depends on the truck....

If it's a real clean, lower mileage (100K is low) truck and it's just saying "I'm here, I'm what you've been searching for, I'm the right color, etc... . " then I wouldn't put one worry at all into it having a 53 block.



There are hundreds of thousands, if not millions of 53's out there that haven't had any cracking at all. Most of what is reported is that the area where it cracks is a thin spot that occured at the Brazil plant in the water jacket. Most of the cracks that I've read about happened in industrial useage applications - like brush hogs, logging equipment, etc... .



Some grocery getters cracked according to TDR; but a fraction of trucks. And, if it does crack, you can "lock-n-stitch" it and it's better than new.



Inspect the area to the passenger rear, mid heigth behind the exhaust manifold to see a horizontal line (if it exists) and you'll see anti-freeze (normally) - if you can't smell it or see liquid, then you'll see crusting in the area indicating a weep.



If the truck has been cared for (you'll know by clenliness) and you have a good feeling, then buy it.



Just my . 02 cents.

 

[SHobbs]

1. Brazilian Blocks are cast by a company named "TUPY" and are marked such. They are identified with cast evolution numbers. #53's are TUPY's. #54 and later evolutions were improved to correct the block issues that the 53's had.

2. Mexican Blocks were made by "Teksid" these blocks to my knowledge never had a problem with cracking, as they are heavier duty by trait, but they did follow the evolutions and got thicker. These blocks do not have the 2 digit "cast number" embossed on the side, instead a series of numbers that are unidentifiable to me. The Mexican blocks were rumored to even be harder to machine do to a harder cast overall, basically better quality in my opinion.



Brazilian Tupys always seem to outnumber Mexican blocks during the ISB's production probably about 8 to 1. So basically if there is a pattern number its Brazilian, if there is a series of small numbers its Mexican.



By the way the Mexican equivalent of a 56 pattern was the Heaviest ISB block of all. This means if you have a 2002 without a #56 on it and instead it has a series of numbers that are smaller and hard to identify, you got the the big boy!!!



Simply, the worry is that the block will crack. These blocks have thinner water jacket walls than other blocks so with coolant cavitation, corrosion, coolant pressure in the block, and torque, they may crack, spilling your coolant. I know from experience that it will not blow up the engine, but you will see that temp gauge rise more often than you'd like.





A crack develops on the right side of the engine, below the freeze plugs, right where the block bends back towards the inside of the block. It is a difficult area to see for auto transmission owners as it is directly behind the transmission heat exchanger. At first everything evaporates so there is no spot under the truck, but you may notice a coolant odor. The leak doesn't occur at idle in most cases because the crack is tight to get through, and doesn't leak until the RPMs of the engine are up, with the water pump causing higher pressure inside the engine block due to the restriction of the thermostat.



The crack will grow over time and you will go through coolant faster. I found that I lost coolant at a slower rate if I let the engine warm up for a while, so the thermostat opened and lessened the pressure inside the engine block.



If you want to see if your engine block could be one of these dreaded "53" blocks, crawl under the front, left side, and look up at the block on the front, directly under the injector pump (by the PS pump). You should see a large wiring harness mounted to the block. Directly below this, just above where the oil pan meets the block you will look for a "53" cast in the block. The numbers will be about 1 inch tall.





I found this in a search.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Great informative post SHobbs.

It seemed the Mexican blocks most often wound up in 2-wheel drive trucks.

 

[steved]

Thanks for the information. The truck is a 99 auto that's primary use was towing a 5vr for 100k... minor power mods.



Sounds like the 53 isn't that big a deal, and that I should worry more about the KDP?

 

[AlaskanCummins]

As far as I know, the KDP isn't an issue with 24 valve engines.

 

[DFerverda]

Ya might want to read this.
https://www.turbodieselregister.com...2002/210119-killer-dowl-pin-early-2002-a.html

I would check the block just to be sure it is not cracked,ie no white water stains or weeping showing on the top passenger side. The kdp is a crap shoot. Some have the new improved case and some don't. I would take the time and do the tab for the kdp and check and clean all the inside cover bolts, they can do as much damage as the pin.
Good luck.

 

[SHobbs]

I have over 250k on my "53" block, so far so good.

 

[sadlbum]

Just found out today my 99 is a 53. Is it safe to say that with 278,000 on it I'm safe?

 

[steved]

I thought I remember the KDP being a hit/miss thing... as I indicated before, I have been out of the 2nd gen arena long enough to have forgotten most of the issues around them.