Factory Hitch

[Nate]

I noticed today that the factory hitch on my truck is only good for 5000lbs (10000 with weight distributing mount) Is that right?



Trailer and Jeep weighs about 6500-7000lbs. What am I supposed to pull that weighs less than 5k? A little Red Wagon? :-laf

 

[Grizzly]

Use an equalizer and you will be within the tolerable limits, 10K.

 

[Nate]

Well no kidding huh? I think I could of figured that out since I did post that info!



I shouldn't have to use an equilizer on a car hauler! The hitch on my Jeep has the same weight rating. Why such a light duty hitch on the truck?

 

[dcoffman]

anything over 2500 you should use an equalizer for safety sake.

 

[NIsaacs]

I don't worry about the weight rating on mine, same as yours. With the car hauler you can adjust the load for more or less weight on the hitch, as you well know. I just hook on and don't look back, so to speak. If I were to haul a heavy travel trailer or something you can't adjust the weight on, then yes, an equalizer is the way to go. As long as I am careful of the weight on the hitch, I don't worry about actual push/pull weight.





"NICK"

 

[NIsaacs]

Dang I forgot to try and answer the question about the light duty hitch on the Dodge v/s the Jeep. The class four receiver is the industry standard for bumper pull trailers on pickups. Any thing over 10,000 lbs, they, (truck makers) want a gooseneck or fifth wheel type. Some people can grossly over load the bumpers, with very little weight on the front axle, causing poor balance with very poor control as the result.





"NICK"

 

[Thomas]

You need to be aware of Safety Recall #872 (thanks Dave Fritz): http://dodgeram. info/tsb/recalls/872.htm

 

[chazj]

I tow a 10,000 lb Arctic Fox with my '02. I had to upgrade to a Class V Titan Hitch to carry the weight properly. I have done a lot of research on the Trailer Life Website about hitches & the relationship with an equalizing type hitch.

From what I gathered the truck's ability (i. e. loadfactor on the hitch) is determined Before any equalizing hitch is used.

 

[Sojourner]

Be advised that the 'factory receiver' is weak and *will* bend on you if you don't use a weight distributing hitch with a heavy load. I found out first hand when I pulled a heavy utility trailer that I was unable to use my wt. distributing saddles on due to tongue construction (would have had to cut the saddles and weld into place on a trailer that doesn't belong to me) - the receiver bent on the first bump I hit. I now have a Draw-Tite class V which is much more beefy.

 

[Grizzly]

Well no kidding huh? I think I could of figured that out since I did post that info!



I shouldn't have to use an equilizer on a car hauler! The hitch on my Jeep has the same weight rating. Why such a light duty hitch on the truck?

I'm sure you would have Nate.

 

[CumminsPower98]

Just buy up a class V Putnam XDR and don't look back. They don't cost a lot and don't need bars to carry some heavy stuff. The stock hitches are very weak and prone to cracking as mine and my cousin's did.





-Class V

-2" square receiver tube

-15,000# Weight Carrying

-16,000# Weight Distribution

-1,700# Tongue Weight

-"No Drill" application

-Polyshield Finish

 

[Nate]

Yeah I might end up doing that. It's all nice and good... ah just get a bigger, better one of this that and the other, but it starts to get downright expensive after a while you know!



If it's not one thing, it's another!

 

[NIsaacs]

Yup, if it ain't one thing it's six. With the class 5 hitch you are still dealing with ball capacity in the 7,500-10,000 lbs class, also the hitch bars themselves.





"NICK"

 

[CumminsPower98]

That's true but at least you can go to 10k safely without weight distribution and the worry the hitch will break as my cheap factory one was. There are also heavy duty balls out there at least up to 30k I have seen. I'm sure there are probably ball mounts that go past 10k also. I have had close to 10k on mine with a toung weight of about 1,300 and it worked fine. I just added air to the air bags and that helped shift some of the weight forward. If a person doesn't have air bags I can see the need for the weight distribution bars to level things out. I agree it seems there is always something to upgrade or fix that just never ends. I know I sure wasn't planning on replacing my hitch until I saw it was cracking on both sides and had such a limp rating.

 

[TRCM]

A class 5 ball mount & ball will go over 15 k easily. The ball is like 1 1/2" shank, and the mount is SOLID.



Also not that cheap.

 

[Sled Puller]

I suggest everyone throw away the factory hitch asap. They are not durable.

 

[Grizzly]

I suggest everyone throw away the factory hitch asap. They are not durable.

I just had a car rear end me last week. They hit the 9" drop and 2" ball at 50 mph with 65' of skid marks. It did no damage to the receiver, drop or ball. Sure messed up the bumper, box, extended fenders (bubbles), tailgate and exhaust pipe and who knows what else when they get to replacing all that. Point is, those factory receivers are tough as nails, so said the adjuster and body repair shop.

 

[Thomas]

... Point is, those factory receivers are tough as nails...

What specific factory receivers are you refering to? The receiver that Nate asked about is on a model year 1998 Ram, a receiver that is the subject of Safety Recall #872.

 

[Nate]

Is there a link to info on that recall? Does that allow me to get a new one?

 

[Thomas]

The URL was in my January 30, 2006 reply.


Here is something to click: http://dodgeram. info/tsb/recalls/872.htm