factory receiver hitch question

[dmurdock]

i was looking at the factory receiver hitch, and it says the max towed weight and the max tongue weight are 10000/5000 and 1000/500 respectively depending on whether or not you are using a "weight distributing" hitch. What is the difference between a weight distributing hitch and a regular hitch (i always thought this was talking about the type of receiver, not what you "plugged" into it)???

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'01 Eth 3500 4x4, Amsoil air filter, AutoMeter boost & egt on pillar mount. See My Truck and also be sure to read What tools & methods to use for an easy 1st oil change!!!
"Be happy you don't get all the government you pay for. " -W. C. Fields

 

[EMDDIESEL]

A weight distributing hitch is exactlty what it says. Unlike a regular hitch, a weight distributing hitch is desinged to help support the weight of the trailer. Some trailers have alot of weight on the tounge end and are designed to work with this type of hitch. I dont tow anything anymore so i would ask one of the many memebers with trailer expertise more on this subject. good luck

 

[klenger]

A weight distributing hitch has spring bars on it which you snap into position with a short pipe used as a lever. The bars shift some of the weight off the back axle to the front axle. The benifit is very noticable when you hook up a trailer to a lighter vehicle like an SUV. Here's a page with a better description than I can give. http://www.draw-tite.com/index2. asp?page=towfacts .

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Ken Lenger
2001. 5 2500 QC 4X4 SWB SLT, ETC/DDX 5 Speed, 3. 54 (no LSD), camper group, trailer folding mirrors, RBR CD/Radio, LT265/75R16E AT OWL tires, trailer tow group, Patroit Blue / Agate, Westin CPS Step Bars, Jordan Utlima Brake Controller, Weather_Guard 664 tool box
Trailite 21' Travel Trailer, ~4000 lbs loaded.

 

[OILBRNR]

I really think that these ratings have more to do with the suspension than the hitch receiver itself.

With a weight dist. unit, you are transfering a portion of the tongue weight to the front axle via torque applied by the leveling bars connected to the hitch itself. This puts a far greater load to the receiver than static tongue weight itself. However, suspension travel and load front to rear will be more even.

Reminds me of the old '60's ad done by one of the hitch mfgs where a '68 or '69 Olds Toronado is towing an Airstream with no rear wheels. Quite the sight, but lets one quickly understand the principle of the load leveling system.

Which reminds me of another thought; Airstream still advises against ordering *heavy duty* spring packages for the tow vehicle. Their view, and logically so, is that a vehicle with the proper load leveling hitch and standard suspension will provide a less harsh ride to both the tow'r and tow'ee. Thereby reducing shock and jarring to both.

I'd like to add that a cheater bar is not always necc. to *lock* the bars down as klenger indicated. Once the hitch is on the ball, one should always raise the tongue with the jack to make sure everything is connected. Continue raising an inch or so more which will raise the back of the truck a tad. At this point you should be able to put the chains from the bars in the saddles and raise them by hand. Then lower the jack whereby the truck and trailer should be level. If you do use a cheater bar, be careful and keep body parts away from all moving parts. I put red zip ties on the ideal links so I don't have to count them out every time I hitch up.

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'99 2500 4x4 • SB • QC • 3. 54 • LSD • AT • Leather • Mag-Hytec • Westach Guages • Line-X • Luverne Nerfs • Tommy Gate

Towing:
'99 28' Airstream Excella (~7000# dry)
'69 24' IMP Inca Twin Screw (~6000# wet)

[This message has been edited by OILBRNR (edited 04-26-2001). ]