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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Factory recommended coolant system flush procedure

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What is the factory recommended procedure for flushing the coolant system, like you would find in a Dodge service manual? I've read just about every possible procedure in the search area, but wondered what dodge actually recommends. And is it ok to flush the system with tap water and then flush it the final time with distilled water and then fill it with coolant and distilled water? I'm just wondering incase I gotta flush it a bunch of times to get all the crud out.
 
Cummins has a coolant modifier or additive, on the shelf for extended life coolant... we use that in our engines and don't bother to change the coolant until they get to 250K miles... ...

We do test each one every year in the fall for the freezing level and add back coolant or distilled water if needed and the above mentioned additive... . thats it... . Our larger trucks have a coolant filter that runs in the heater hose that has a screw on filter with conditioner in the filter... . I've thought about putting one of those on the 3500's we own be so far we've had no problems... .

We do the same with our Fords.....

Your suggestion to flush looks great to me... . I'd do it with a tee in the heater hose line and once I'd back flushed it for 15 min with the engine running and the water running very slowly I'd shut down the engine and that run 10 lbs of air pressure in the system to get rid of all the water... . than I'd add back the coolant and distilled water as you suggest.....
 
I am adding a coolant filter using a Baldwin cfb5000 head and a b5134 non dca filter. I am doing this to keep from having to flush the radiator when its time and just add an additive or a do a radiator drain and fill with Valvoline G-05 extended life. This cost me $95 with all the fittings, filter head, and three filters. It might help you get all the crud out of your system and you could do a couple radiator drain and fills to get some fresh coolant in there.
 
I have my inlet (2 the filter) t running from the inlet of the heater core and the outlet t running to the outlet of the heater core. That way its following the flow and not disrubting anything. I have mine mounted down on the frame below the downpipe and the two lines zip tied out of the way. I just did it tonight, right now I am ok on where its placed but if it gets to much heat from the downpipe I will move it or insulate the lines. Drove it down the road to check on everything and it heats up pretty quick, so it must flowing pretty well. There is a kit here: http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=796 and I should of just bought it, but I found pretty much everything I needed on ebay except a couple fittings which I got from my local hydraulic hose shop.
 
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Your Dodge Dealership mostly use a BG or Wynns Machine, Most of them also switch you Gold orange or red coolants back to green when flushing! Just a note, if you happen to use a wynns coolant flush machine, get some nice thick gloves.
 
I remove the small heater hose at the heater core and back flush it after running the cleaner in it for about 1/2-3/4 hr. I run the hose through it for anout 15 minutes,(with the lower radiator hose removed) then I refill and drain at least 3 more times before 50-50 goes in.

It's dishwasher powder, I forget the name. Cascade??? It's a blue box.

I'm sure you could do a search and find the exact name.

I've NEVER had crud or anything that looked even remotely nasty come out of my system. The radiator also looks extremely clean inside.

I've used this method since new.
 
I just had to do a major system flush with my truck after my hose-in-hose burst , pumping a bunch of WVO into the cooling system. That was a nice little mess. What I ended up doing was draining off the antifreeze/veg mix, and then running the garden hose into the system (we have really clean spring water). Run it a little bit, drain it, refill, add cleaner, repeat. It took me a couple cycles to get all the oil out, but now that I finally have clean water coming out, it's time to go back to 50/50.
 
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