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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) failed p pump?

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) NV4500 temp sensor install

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Hard Starting to No start

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my fathers truck (95 3500) will not start unless i use starting fluid, it will not even try to start, no smoke out the tail pipe, nothing. the pump is creating pressure when i checked the lines but not enough to pop the injectors. it runs ok when i get it running and will restart if i try within a few minutes of it running. there is no air in the system i had the tank at 10 psi for 3 days without a drip from anywhere. so, is the i/p dying or is there something else wrong? it seems like it isnt developing enough psi when cranking? im tempted to put a ve front cover on it and switch to a ve pump, at least i can rebuild them.
 
Have you replaced any of the hoses between the steel lines at the firewall to the fuel filter, fuel heater and return hose from injection pump? Some of those can suck air an cause the problem you describe. There are alot of VE owners that would love to swap parts with you, but I would keep what you have. That is the most desireable pump for the 5. 9 Cummins. Did I read where you checked your overflow valve? If it is the pump, having it rebuilt will be cheaper than replacing front cover and installing VE pump. You would have to pull the camshaft to install the other front cover and buy different injection lines. ALOT of labor involved.
 
Email me at -- email address removed -- for my 12 valve fuel supply system write up, how it works and how to fix it. Your problem may be fixable for free or very low cost.
 
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its not a supply side issue, the tank and lines were pressurized for 3 days and no leaks, it wouldn't start even after bleeding it, it will not produce enough psi to open the injectors.
 
its not a supply side issue, the tank and lines were pressurized for 3 days and no leaks... ... ... .....



Pay close attention. Just because the lines did not leak under pressure does not mean that air can not be pulled in from the suction of the pump. Have the rubber fuel lines ever been replaced? Did you e-mail Joe G. for his article? My small contribution to his article came after many days of troubleshooting, replacing parts unnecessarily (including the fuel supply and return lines) and pressurizing the system. I never had a leak either.



BTW, starting fluid is a really bad idea due to the intake heater grids.
 
Check the shutdown solenoid. If it is not pulling the lever on the side of the pump to full open, you may not be getting fuel to start the engine. TST offers a fitting that replaces the bleeder screw on top of the fuel filter. You can thread a compression fitting adapter into it to use a pressure gauge, such as a boost gauge, to check lift pump pressure.
 
it has the primeloc relocation kit so it has 2 ports to check pressure. pressure is 20 psi at idle and 44 at 2000 rpms. the lever that rides on the furl plate was underneath the plate when it is cranking or the solenoid is in the up position, causing it to not deliver enough psi to the injectors, kinda like pushing the shutoff solenoid down to kill the engine. i have never seen this before, the plate had a #6 stamped in it. i just ground the bottom of it flat so the lever would slide up and forward when the solenoid is energized and it starts every time now. before someone says it will be overfueling and egt,s will go through the roof, this pump is junk and will not even blow black smoke out the tail pipe under heavy load. another problem, probably mis adjusted gov springs, but all my dad wanted was a truck that starts and drives. besides he has enough speeding tickets. and the boost hose is hooked to the afc and its not leaking. just lowon power.
 
afc was set all the way forward with the spring adjusted till it was at its loosest. the pump just doesnt add fuel like mine in my truck, it starts to add fuel and defuels at 2000rpms like its hitting the governor and pulling back fuel. thats whi i thought it was the gov springs.
 
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