Here I am

Fan Clutch Going Out?

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

A/C Compressor Question

Hey Talk is Cheap How mnay miles ya got?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Hey Guys, I Think my Fan Clutch is Fubar. The Viscous Clutch has a squeeking sound after engine shutdown as the fan coast's down. And there is some slop in the area of the clutch nut.
I only have 73k on the Truck. I would have thought these things last a little longer than 73k.
How about it, Has anyone else out there had to replace their Fan Clutch?. I Have a 98. 5.
Thanks.
Doug.

------------------
1998. 5,2500,ISB,Auto,CC,4x4,4. 10's,Suregrip,White Sport,Isspro Boost & Pyro,275hp Injectors,VA,PS Boost Module,DTT Valve Body,BD Pressure Lock,Mopar Perf Alum transmission Pan,16x8 Eagles,285/75/16 Bridgestone MT's,2. 5" Skyjacker Lift,Stockland Seibring Shell. Uniden HR2510 Ham/CB
 
Doug. .
I replaced mine with a '01 ETH/DEE . . the old bent one no longer worked #ad
#ad


[This message has been edited by willyslover (edited 01-13-2001). ]
 
Doug, I heard this place by you has a trick way of replacing them,they pound a 1/2" drive socket extension though the center of the radiator to remove the fan nut. Think the place is called Had-it Dodge or something like that. #ad
 
Originally posted by illflem:
Doug, I heard this place by you has a trick way of replacing them,they pound a 1/2" drive socket extension though the center of the radiator to remove the fan nut. Think the place is called Had-it Dodge or something like that. #ad

Ha Ha Bill, LOL!. Maybe I Should take that 1/2" drive Extension, And Pound right Through Chuck HADDAD's Left Eyeball Socket! #ad


The Dealer over in Taft Said that the Fan Clutch is not part of the Cummins Engine Warranty,And the Clutch is $120(My Cost)From them.
Also Cummins West Say's that they do not have a part# for the Fan Clutch.
Napa,Carquest,Pepboys,Autozone,Kragen Do Not Have a Listing for this part either, So I guess its Gonna Have to be a Mopar Part.

I do have the 100k Extended Warranty and it covers the Fan Clutch, But it also has $100 Deductible, So for $20 More I Will Replace the Part Myself. #ad

Doug.
 
to get back to the subject: there have been very few posts about having to replace viscous fan drives, It is not one of the " common " failures.

------------------
2K, 2500,Laramie,Quad,4x4,3:54LSD,auto,reese 15k 5th slider, EISLEY BULL BAR,WESTIN NERFS, TA's,9000's, DD2's,PE-EZ & elbow, ISSPRO pyro & boost, Turbo Lifesaver, JARDINE 4", DTT VB,TC and COOLER, PAC BRAKE, MAG HYTECH TP& DC, onboard.
pullee #1 26' Arctic Fox 5th
#2 22' car hauler w/ 76 Pinto 392cid or 68 Cyclone GT Cobra Jet FB
NRA,VFW,SASS

[This message has been edited by JNutter (edited 01-13-2001). ]
 
Doug,you may want to consider replacing it with a Horton. It will make your truck quieter and improve the fuel economy. You need not replace your fan for a couple more months till the SJ valley gets hotter than Hades so you can save for it. There's a thread over in 12 valve right now that talks about running fan less. I removed mine a few weeks ago,one of the best things I've done to my truck,wish I'd have done it years ago.
Bill
 
Unless it is not cooling the eng. you are looking for things to replace... ... ... .
Had you shook the fan/drive when you had 1K on the rig the sloop/side play would havd been the same.
 
Originally posted by tdrmbramr:
Unless it is not cooling the eng. you are looking for things to replace... ... ... .
Had you shook the fan/drive when you had 1K on the rig the sloop/side play would havd been the same.

Beleive me, I AM Not Looking for things to Replace. I would Rather Spend that Money on Bombing Stuff, Than Factory OEM STUFF.
With that Said, The Viscous Clutch is making a Squeeking noise when the Engine is Shut off. And the Fan Does not engage even with the engine temp is at the 200 degree mark.

I just can't beleive that there are no other suppliers of the Fan Clutch for the Cummins/Ram.
Doug.
 
Originally posted by JNutter:
to get back to the subject: there have been very few posts about having to replace viscous fan drives, It is not one of the " common " failures.

IllFlem and JNUTTER,Thank you for Replying. I will have to do something before summertime.
Doug.

[This message has been edited by DieselRam (edited 01-14-2001). ]
 
I don't know about the 24v but most 12v have a fanbelt squeal at shutdown... could this be what your hearing? I hope so becouse a little belt dressing will stop it for a while.

------------------
95 club cab auto 2wd +GENO'S COMBO GAUGE + SONY 10 disc + RCA 9" tv/vcr + 1 CHAMBER FLOWMASTER +LOST cat + silencer ring + slid stock plate & k&N so far... ! member of the SETDR
 
Pretty much all of these trucks have a squeek at shutdown. High compression engine you know. The crank stops turning so quick the belt slips a little at shutdown and squeeks. Unless it's more then a pretty quick screech it's normal.
 
hey, if the 2001 is the same as the 98. 5 then I Will let you have mine cheap as I want a horton, Im running without it and have the lund cold front on and still the thermostate dont open much,its just sittin on the bench waitin for someone to take her for a spin #ad
Kevin

------------------
Whitmore
30D 80743
 
The squeak mentioned is referenced on many old posts as a "chirp" My Y2k, Nephews 2K 3500, and Brother-in-Laws 98 12v all have the chirp at shutdown . . something about the belt and sudden stop of the engine. But I encounter this squeak / chrip during the hot months.

But the fact you're temp is nearing 200 . . you definately have a coolent system problem. There were a few posts back referring to a bad batch of thermostats. Also a few clutch replacements under warrenty . . sorry I don't have the thread.

Keep us posted as to what you find. Good Luck.

Michael
 
In addition to the belt line "chirp/squeak" metioned above...

I wanted to point out, that if your drip bottle is still in the OEM location, you'll likely have: Furr, Gunk, Oil Slime, etc all over your fam.

If you're having running temp problems, check the weep hole of the H20 pump, it is on the underside of the point pointed at the group, coming out of the housing where it supports the pumpshaft, (headed for the pulley) if you see any residue or actually leakage, the pumps suspect.

Also, there were thermostat problems, but I don't recall the year(s) that are/were suspect.

If your clutch fan has given up the ghost, it is the first instance of it I've seen on the forum. BTW, do you feel any resistance in it when you try to turn the fan by manually WITH THE ENGINE OFF? If it spins freely, ie no resistance at all or barely moves, those are typical "syptoms" of a goner.

Good Luck.

Max
 
Fan Clutch for Cummins Turbo Diesel

Part #: 82205124
MSRP: US $770. 00

Electromagnetic fan clutch for Cummins Turbo Diesel Engines that allows the engine to run cooler, farther and longer. Clutch replaces viscous drive and is turned on and off as the engine requires, freeing valuable horsepower and gaining economy when it is not engaged. Fan Clutch fits both 12-valve and 24-valve engines.


Has there been any problems with this unit?

I was surprized to see a standard fan on my new truck.

Cruiz'n down the road no fan noise was tooooooo loud, plus it takes forever to warm up.

I was going to run to the dealer and put this pricey piece of order, but now, I would hope someone would set me straight if I should do that or not?

------------------
2001. 5 2500 QuadCab SLT Plus, Auto, 3. 54 Anti-Spin Axle, 4X2, SWB, White/Tan. BOMBing shall commence, soon after breakin. www.ProwlerOnline.com
 
I stand corrected, it doesn't have a standard fan, it has a clutch fan, but it is stiff and never seems to disengage. Very Loud.

What's up with that?

------------------
2001. 5 2500 QuadCab SLT Plus, Auto, 3. 54 Anti-Spin Axle, 4X2, SWB, White/Tan. BOMBing shall commence, soon after breakin. www.ProwlerOnline.com
 
Gary,
If the horton is not disengaging, then there might be a problem with it.
I'm not sure, but there should be a temp switch to make it come on at high temp and a manual switch. check both and see if it is not the fan itself.

hope it helps
Eric

------------------
2001 QC 2500 4x4 bronze W/two tone Driftwood, 24valve HO 6sp. Westin side bars, fender flares, Spray on bedliner, soon to get shell Painted to match and Bf Goodrich AT Tires
 
Gary,
When I first bought my truck I complained to the dealer that it sounded like the fan was going to suck the radiator core out, even when it was cold.

Replaced the clutch, same thing.

The Horton electromagnetic clutch is nice. But too $$$.

Cyclone was supposed to be developing a clutch for the Cummins B series engines. They would be about 1/2 the price of a Horton.

More info: http://www.usgear.com/cyclone.htm

I am presently running my truck fanless & radiator blocked. It takes me 19-20 miles of backroad low rpm driving to reach 190 degrees at an outside temperature of about 25 degrees. Pulled A/C compressor clutch relay also.

The mileage is up about 1-2 MPG. Truck warms up faster. Throttle response is definately better (seems like 30 Hp more). Truck is MUCH quieter with no fan especially @ idle. Idle speed increased by 1/2 a needle's width. It seems to run smoother, quietier and have more power when the block temp is around 190 degrees. This is just a 'winter" idea. It does probably not get cold enough to do this where you live.

I may experiment with a flex fan and no clutch this spring. I have always had overcooling. I don't tow or haul. Thats half the problem. Iv'e wore out the thermostat housing bolt threads trying each updated, and new T-Stat. #ad




[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 01-19-2001). ]
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top