fans

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I am considering running an electric fan in place of the belt-driven fan presently on my truck. Has anyone out there run an electric fan and recommend a brand if so? Started looking at this as a hp robber when looking at the belt to decide if I want to buy a replacement that goes around the AC pulley or not... after all, if the AC compressor is locked up, the new belt would probably last about as long as it takes to replace it?

I am going to buy a belt to go around without the AC and another one to go around the AC pulley also.

Where is the best place to put a sensor in the intake manifold for turbo boost gauge? My truck is a '99 six-spd. I couldn't see a convenient place to put one in without doing some drilling, which I would rather not have to do.

Thanks for the input.

 

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Clark: I run a Horton fan clutch which works well. 90% it is not in use. When you really need it, like towing a mountain pass, it pulls some serious CFM. I just don't think any electric fan will pull enough CFM in the all-out situation to keep you out of the red. Most of the time, however, it will do just fine. But I really don't believe you will be able to handle the occasional pull on a long steep grade in summer without pulling over for a cooldown. Just my two cents.

 

[Archive]

Lets put this over in the Products and Accessories forum.

 

[Archive]

There was a discussion of using electric fans in a recent issue of the TDR. I think there was a discussion on these forums about a year ago too. Anyway, the conclusion was that there is NO electric fan that will do the job since none of them will move enuff air with an electric motor you can stuff in there.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

[Archive]

I have one 16" fan out side on the A/C condencer right now and by summer I will have an 18" fan on the inside centered. The one on the A/C is wired to come on with the A/C as well as a manual over ride. The one on the inside will be hooked up to a adjustable temp sender as well as over ride. The fan on the outside is rated at 1600 CFM and the one on the inside at 2100. I'll bet that even on long hills towing a backhoe that it will be as cool as stock if not cooler.

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EAT'M UP
97 2500 Club 4X4 3. 54, Forrest Green/Driftwood, LSD 5 speed, & Psychotty Air System, TST #11, 370 HP injectors, timing at 16 deg. , 16CM2 housing, AFC spring kit, Geno's Exhaust Blanket, TST EGT gauge & 0-60 boost gauge in A Pillar, Cat-be-gone, 4" Dynomax Bullet muffler, Crome 4" turn down, Rad fan removed, AmsOil Through out, Geno's trans filter kit, AmsOil Bypass system, Lund Winter front, Leer Cab Level Shell Driftwood , 255/85R16, Dyno'd 342 HP pre injectors & turbo housing *NRA/USPSA member and proud of it*

 

[Archive]

You can put the two of them together and really only get the same cfm as the higher rated fan. The factory fan, however still pulls the most air above all. At A. W. D. , we have done extensive testing with the highest rated electric fans and have proven that the amount of hp required to drive the factory fan is inconclusive considering that in high hp applications, the electric fans will not provide adequate airflow to offset the thermal shock that is subjected to the cooling system. In stock vehicles, you can get away with the electric fan or fans. But when towing or adding hp, the only way is with the belt driven fan.

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Chris Timochko
AUTO WURKS DIESEL R&D TEAM
1997 5sp 4X4, Espar Heater, A. W. D. HX40 turbo, ATS 3pc Manifold, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, A. W. D. Custom Tuned Injection Pump, A. W. D. Intercooler, A. W. D. 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, A. W. D. Water Injection, NOS Diesel Kit, A. W. D. 6" Chrome Exhaust System, BD No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc, Goodyear Wrangler AT/S 305/70/16s.
Project U96 - 1996 3500 2WD racer. A. W. D. Marine Ultra Low Compression, A. W. D. Teflon-coated Pistons, A. W. D. High Lift Camshaft, Ported and Honed Cylinder Head, Intake and Exhaust manifold; A. W. D. HX40 Turbocharger, ATS 3pc Exhaust Manifold, A. W. D. Water Injection, A. W. D. Custom Fabricated Fuel System, Race Spec A. W. D. /BD P7100 Injection Pump, A. W. D. Custom High Flow Fuel Injection Nozzles, BD Auto transmission and Custom TC, Weld Draglites, Goodyear Eagle Drag Slicks, 5" Single Stack Through The Bed, Mag-Hytec on Rear and Transmission.

 

[Archive]

Originally posted by highland:
Clark: I run a Horton fan clutch which works well. 90% it is not in use.

<font color = blue> Kirk, I'd be v e e r r y interested to hear what if any improvement there was in your mpg diesel fuel consumptionfigures. I know that at around US$1. 70/gal, the breakeven cost may be hard to justify for some people, but when you're paying upwards of US$5. 00/gal #ad
for diesel fuelin Europe, the breakeven point might be easier to justify, especially as I plan on keeping my truck for a l o n g time...

Cheers

<font color = black>



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JMc

2001 Flame Red Sport 3500 QC, 5. 9L 24v Cummins, 4x4 Auto, 3. 54/LSD, 155 inch WB, Agate leather, Camper Special & Trailer Tow Groups , Sliding Rear Window, WAAG sidetubes with dually kickouts, Line-X UTR Bedliner & underseal, Grover Airhorns, Lance 1130 slide-in Camper, 60 gallon Aerotank, RS9000s, Reese Titan class 5 hitch, Roadmaster XX, in planning stages... . Gauges, Mag-Hytec, Exhaust Brake, Psychotty Air, 4" exhaust, Injectors, Rickson 19. 5" wheels, , Bill K. VB & TC.