Fass 2nd gen DRP pump on a 3rd gen?

[rrowdy]

Does anyone know if the fass DRP pump for the '01-02 can be used on a '04.5? I have a brand new one and would like to use it.
They look the same except maybe the Aluminum mount and I can machine a new one from billet if I have to.

 

[CKelley1]

i think the pump is set for 10 pounds higher pressure but will work. the stock in-tank pump is more reliable, just add better filtering by the tank

 

[rrowdy]

Thank's CK,
What I was wanting to do is mount the pump to the frame rail, and install a 2u filter and a water separator before the oem canister.
Maybe I have this backward but there's very little room in the engine compartment for anything larger than a baseball.

Since I already have a DRP pump, I thought it could be used but if the pressure is in fact higher than a ddrp I'm not sure if the higher pressures to the CP3 pump would cause any problems. One would think that DC engineers could have figured all this out before the fact so we don't have to.....

 

[cerberusiam]

The CP-3 will handle more pressure at the inlet than a VP-44, not really a concern. If you think it is add a regulator.

 

[rrowdy]

Thanks Cerb, Appreciate the input.

 

[CrewCabDiesel]

Been using a FASS150 Platinum/draw straw on my early 04, 15 psi constant for two years. Had a FASS150 with the same pressure on my 2001 24V.
Kyle

 

[CKelley1]

here is pix of the filter setup, you do not need the fass
we mount the filters just forward of the fuel tank. we run a fleet of dodges and recently installed one on a 06. there is two bolts through the floor board for a rear seat option at this location. some of our trucks use them others do not. get a 2" x 3" piece of angle iron 6" long. make a card board template that the two bolts and keeper nuts will go through hold the template on the inside against the 2" part and drill the two holes they will be about 5/8" i think and about 3 7/8 " between. center the holes on the 2" and near the edge on the 2" hold the angle iron over the bolts with the 3"part the furtherest away from the tank and drill a 1/4" hole between the two holes, keep drilling through the floor board. now after you mount the filters to the angle iron just simply mount it with a 1/4 grade 8 bolt. this is the only hard part the other items is easy. the total time including building the bracket is about 1 1/2 hours. i will give you napa numbers but they can cross reference to wix or car quest. the two bases are 4770 the water separator pre filter is 3406 the 2 micron filter is 3674. use a 3/8" nipple with about 1/2" space in the middle connect the two bases together observing the in and out. because of this the mounting plate on one filter base is about 1" further out than the other. install two 90* 3/8" barbed fittings on the bases and temporary bolt the angle iron up and hold the filters up to it. make sure everything clears and mark the one base that touches the plate to drill the three holes to mount the filters. next cut the feed fuel line at this location and bend the lines out a little and install 3/8 hose over the lines and to the barbed fittings. i put a small amount of flair on the steel lines. but i do not think it is necessary. Bleed the air out through the stock filter before trying to start it. use a gauge and do not change the filters until you see a four pound drop this should be about every 150,000 miles and the stock filter will never need to be changed. Cheapest place is http://www.fleetfilter.com/filters/wix-filter-bases.html

your filter base has two inlets and two outlets on each base be careful to connect the nipple between the outlet of the first filter to the inlet of the second. only one of the bases get's the bolts as the offset places the second base about a inch away from the plate. we use to make spacers on the first ones and then decided they were not needed
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[rrowdy]

Thanks for the ideas guys. I'm thinking along the same line as Ckelley1 except I'm thinking of using inline bases like 2309 bases
which are a 1" 12 pitch and machining 1-12 to 1-14 adapters. This way, I won't have to offset the bases and filters.

I'll use a water separator pre filter 33406 and the 2 micron filter is 33674. Now to decide which pump to use and should it be wired via a
ECM powered relay using battery power for the pump? Thus I'm assuming that the stock pump is still powered by the ECM?

Thank's again for your input and ideas.

 

[CrewCabDiesel]

Looks interesting ,Has anyone tried to replace the rubber hose with stainless 1/2 inch lines? Any thermal issues with Fuel getting too cold in the winter?

 

[cerberusiam]

I would use the standard 1-14 bases and the best FleetGuard or CAT filters that fit them. Put the WS one right after the LP and the 3 um between the stock filter and the CP-3. There is no reason to not mount the 2 um on the frame and plumb with good rubber lines to the CP-3. If you expect to run in cold weather I would add the a heated base for the WS and you should be good.

 

[AH64ID]

I would put the f/w sep before the frame mounted pump as f/w seps prefer to operate on the suction side. Unless the filter is clogged it shouldn't effect flow.