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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) FASS and aux fuel tank

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Just a question.

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) I have a problem

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RICH S

TDR MEMBER
I am looking someone who has hooked up a FASS system while having a aux fuel tank. My tank is in the bed and when the FASS sys was put in the overflow line was teed into the return line. As a result I am running almost 30 psi on my guage. The aux tank uses a 6 port fuel tank selector switch when I really need a 9 port switch. I far as I was able to find out they do not make such an item. According to Dan at FASS I need to replumb the lines to remove the bypass from the return to reduce the pressure. Mike at American Tank says to add another 3 port switch to accomblish this. Has anone installed this combo and if so how did you do it.

Thanks

rich
 
I have just such a setup on my truck. I used two 6-way valves (couldn't find a 3-way). I plumbed the normal pressure/return lines through one valve and the FASS return line into the other valve. I tee'd the FASS return line going to the aux. tank into the normal return line since the aux. tank only has two lines. My FASS has always been running 25 to 30 PSI even before I added the aux. tank.



Kevin
 
Heres the setup i run. . The aux tank is a 65 gal in bed tank. The valve at the bottom is mounted in the cab accessable from the drivers seat. With this setup, i can pour my used motor oil in the aux tank, and the oem lift pump circulates it through a water separator, and a frantz submicron oil filter, then back to the aux tank. When its time to transfer some to the main, i turn the valve accordingly. Also the air bleeder valve at the vp44 is normally closed, but after changing filters, etc, its easy to open the valve and purge air from the system for a few minutes before starting the motor. Works good. Also the same valve will divert fuel from the main to the aux tank. It has come in handy for emptying the tank for adding a larger fuel pickup, and return lines. This is an older drawing, and is missing some obvious things like the oem fuel return from the vp, etc. . Just another option if you like "fiddlin".

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/displayimage.php?&photoid=26270&width=3
 
N7GXZ

What you have is what I think I am going to do with one exception, I going to take the float assembly out and drill another hole and put in another return useing a barbed fitting. Mike at American Tank made that suggestion.

I spoke with Chip at Blue Chip and he said that 25-30 psi is way too much. The pressure should be no higher than 15psi or lower than 5 psi. High pressure is bad for the infector pump. I am now having a problem with bucking after the truck is warmed up and than shut down for a while and restarted but only while under load. Like pulling my 14K 5th wheel. I had the APPS replaced as it coded out. It ran fine for a while but the trouble returned. Either the APPS went bad again or the injector pump is on it's way out. Chip said to get the fuel pressure under control and go from there. If the pressure reduction doesn't help, than the electronics in the punp are being affected by the latent heat from the motor after shutdown. If I were you I would look into reducing the pressure.

Thanks for your input.

Rich
 
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