Gentlemen:
Ok, the pump is installed and the truck is running. It took several "bumps" of the starter to get fuel pressure but once I did, the truck started immediately. I obtained about 13. 5psi at idle and it has remained at 13. 5 psi. Upon acceleration, the pump drops to about 10. 5-11. 0 psi and will hold 12 psi at cruise.
Here is my general commentary on the installation and the product after about 1. 5 hours of driving:
1) The unit is not a pure "direct replacement" pump for the factory Carter model. The adjustments are not overly painful but it can be a bit confusing if you are looking for a pure swap of the Carter pump.
2) The unit that I installed was manufactured on December 7, 2010 and differs from the installation instructions from Geno's Garage (courtesey of Mr. Sticks and the post above). FASS now wants you to install a small in-filter on th intake fuel line about 8" back from the banjo fitting on the incoming side of the pump. It is not impossible but the line has a soft rubber sleeve covering with the fuel line itself being a hard plastic. You have to cut carefully and work carefully when installing this filter. Be sure to note the correct direction of the filter. The line is not a soft rubber like fuel line. There are no good opportunities for placement of the in-line fuel filter since the fuel line become solid metal all the way back to the fuel tank. Be sure to place the filter with the correct end for fuel "in" and "out".
3. To get to the banjo bolts on the old pump and install the new pump and banjo bolts you do need six fingers and a couple of eyeballs on a string but one can do it. I found the best way is to get a soft pad to place on top of the engine area so that you have a soft place to put your knees. You really need to be on top of the engine so you can lean down to the pump. I borrowed the dog's bed with a couple of rag towels underneath to prevent oil, acid and grease from getting on her bed. (PLEASE--Do this only after the engine has cooled. Expect to get grease and diesel fuel on your clothes. )
4. The old pump is held in place by 1/2 inch nuts (1998. 5 model), not 10 mm bolts. It takes a 1/2 open end/box wrench to do the job--not 10 mm, not 11 mm, not 12 mm, not 13 mm. The metric wrenches will not work on these nuts. The banjo bolts are 17 mm.
5. When you go to install the new pump, FASS wants you to use two banjo washers. One washer each should go on either side of the banjo fitting, not two stacked next to the bolt head. The instructions are not clear on this point even though most mechanics would recognize the need to place a washer on each side of the banjo fitting. Be sure to lubicate the inlets of the new pump as described by FASS.
The Cummins banjo washers are nicer and easier to use than the six that FASS supplied. The Cummins washers have soft rubber like internal diameter and so they "stick" to the banjo bolt. This makes the job of connecting the fitting, bolt and washers much easier--I dropped two FASS washers never to be found. (Geno's Garage sent two Cummins banjo washers taped to the top of the box. ) The washers cost about $1. 18 each from Cummins.
6. The photos in the installation manual show the new pump out and the incoming fuel line disconnected at the quick connect/disconnet fitting. You can do this but you need to be comfortable disconnecting this fitting without damage. It's an awkward reach to to the line.
7. One of the most confusing instructions of the install is the placement of the support bracket for the incoming fuel line and banjo assembly. The original install has the support bracket bolted to the top of the main pump/engine bracket with a 10 mm bolt. With the new pump, the support bracket lies in the hollowed-out spot of the motor pump bracket and the pump itself. THERE IS NO BOLT THAT HOLDS THE SUPPORT BRACKET TO THE PUMP. The banjo bolt now holds the fuel line and its support bracket. The 10-32 machine screw is for alignment only although I could not determine its value. The bolt hole on the support bracket is bigger than the entire head of the machine scew. Still, after bolting the incoming fuel line with the banjo bolt, the support bracket should lie flat and flush to the machined out spot above the pump motor.
8. I installed the pump in the following order: A) Install the rear banjo bolt--finger tight only. B) Use one 1/2 bolt and hold the new pump under the attachment bracket and start the threads. Finger tight only. Then loosely install two rear bolts for the pump and tighten snugly. C) Tighten the rear banjo bolt. (If you have any idea how to get a torque value on this bolt, let me know. ) D) Finish one end of the outlet rubber hose (supplied by FASS) with the banjo fitting. You will have to press the fitting in place. I used the top of a 4' plastic ladder to press the hose down on the fitting. It goes on with the described lubrication in the instructions and a bit of "elbow grease". E) Loosely fit the hose with a banjo bolt to the outlet port of the new pump and measure the required length. Cut to fit. F) Remove the hose and fit the fuel filter end of the line with its banjo fitting. Press on securely as the other fitting end. G) Connect the newly created hose to the outlet port of the pump and the inlet port of the fuel filter housing. DO NOT FORGET THE BANJO WASHERS! Tighten both banjo bolts with the 17 mm wrench. H) Go back to the motor support bracket and remove the outer most bolt. Place the grommet clamp for the wiring harness to the pump in the clamp and bolt down with the pump bolt. Tighten securely. I) Connect the wiring to the new pump. J) Clean up the engine area and check you work. Verify that you have tightened all bolts. Remove the dog bed and give back to dog. Apologize to the dog. K) For the 1998. 5 Dodge, I had to "bump" the starter about 5 times in order for the fuel pressure guage to register fuel. You just touch the the starter and get out to listen for the pump running. The new pump is very quiet. L) With luck, the engine will start. Get out and check for leaks as the engine is running. M) Go for a test drive and check fuel pressures under load--assuming you have a fuel pressure guage inside your cab. N) Come get back to your shop and check for leaks under the hood---again. O) You are done for now.
My truck is a 1998. 5 with a 5 speed manual transmission. It was built in May, 1998. Your truck may vary depending on model year. Good luck.
I am not a mechanic so if I left anything out or if you have further question, give FASS a call. They are very helpful. If someone else has better techniques, be my guest. Some have suggested freeing up the fuel filter housing to give better access. Thats ok too. Just have enough banjo washers to reconnect any fitting that you may free.
I am not happy with the psi's that I am getting but the truck is driveable and I will trouble shoot the issue over the next several weeks. FASS is already sending a new spring but I am going to change fuel filters and maybe explore any issues with the fuel tank. Thank for your help. Hope this helps someone else.
Gotta run. The truck is needed somewhere else.
Mark Young
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