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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) FASS Installed

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Fleetguard Enviroguard

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COWBOYDUALLY said:
yea i read that on one of the tdr posts on here. it sounds logical as to the problem associated with the "cavitation problem" if it isnt the problem while the tank is down im going to go ahead and put a bigger feed tube in place of it, cant hurt. at least i know the volume capacity would be up! Jeremy



Cavitation can also be caused by the screens in the P/Ubeing cloged. It was suggested to me (by Brad) to drop the tank and cut the screens out. At 50k they were totally cloged I cut them out and problem totally was gone.
 
foolkiller said:
hey folks, newbie here,



1. what makes you suspect the cavitation you're disscussing here? a noise?



2. also, it's been in about a year and i've never done anything with the water separator. what do i do with it? just open the nut on the bottom and let it drain?

The pump gets VERY LOUD, and the PSI goes to 0 :eek:

That's correct
 
Mad Bomber

madbomber,

i think i've seen your handle on relentlessdiesel.com. am i right? ok since i've had the same sound with mine it has never dropped to 0 ever but it is making the sound of a cavitating pump though, when i get back to the states im going to cut the screen too,also change to a bigger pickup tube, im sure you know a little about turbos id like to chat with you and pick your brain :) ,im in a dilemma with my turbo choice. jeremy
 
foolkiller

hey remember you neccessarly dont have to use just fass products, im running baldwin oil and fuel/water separ. baldwin has a big quality assurance program and have done extensive testing on their products. you should have received a cross reference sheet with your fass. most fass distributers can cross reference if you dont have one, im not telling you what to run but ripping on apart after 25k on it i was amazed just how much crud it caught. just my . 02
 
COWBOYDUALLY said:
madbomber,

i think i've seen your handle on relentlessdiesel.com. am i right? ok since i've had the same sound with mine it has never dropped to 0 ever but it is making the sound of a cavitating pump though, when i get back to the states im going to cut the screen too,also change to a bigger pickup tube, im sure you know a little about turbos id like to chat with you and pick your brain :) ,im in a dilemma with my turbo choice. jeremy



Now that I looked at relentless yes that's me opps

There are 2 layers of screens you will see when you pull it out. BTW a sharp little hobbie knife works very well to do it.

Tell me when you find the "perfect" turbo I'm still looking LOL. I have the PDR35/14cm wastegated now and need more because I'm over 425RWHP
 
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hell man, ive dynoed out at 491hp on stock turbo,egts were off the gauge when i did it,i never again will do that. im sure that everyone reading this will be like stock turbo? your full of it jeremy. the injectors were custom made for my application and built so i can build into them with more air, ive got a buddy on here CHolman making calls for turbos for me while im over here in saudi arabia, im on the wrong thread to be talkin about this so ill shut up now..... jeremy
 
COWBOYDUALLY said:
... ok since i've had the same sound with mine it has never dropped to 0 ever but it is making the sound of a cavitating pump though...





The FASS can cavitate, but it will remove any air it pumps and return that air to the tank which supplies the VP44/CP3 with air free fuel. If it is cavitating a lot or hard to prime, I would still suspect a leaking fitting between the tank and FASS.



When mine gets air, it will cause the low pressure light to flicker some... but normally it doesn't cavitate... but again, I have a 95/150 and not the straight 150.



If you search for FASS, you will find I have a thread going about filters for the FASS. ( https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=143174 ) And yes, baldwin has a replacement filter, the BT8509MPG, that will replace the HF6607. And they have a screen/water separator, the BF7760, that replaces the FS1023.



steved
 
DirtyDodge said:
Rob,



Unable to read pressure. Was using shrader valve to get fuel pressure. I have to come up with another way to get my fuel pressure reading. I plan on taking care of this problem this next week. Won't be driving truck much untill I can get an acurate reading. I feel like I am flying blind here.



Open to any suggestions...



Thanks,

Derek



Derek I still run my stock OEM FF between my FASS and VP for heating the fuel in the winter time. I have installed a Banjo on the bottom of the FF where I tape my fuel pressure gauge at. ;)
 
RAJohnson said:
Derek I still run my stock OEM FF between my FASS and VP for heating the fuel in the winter time. I have installed a Banjo on the bottom of the FF where I tape my fuel pressure gauge at. ;)



Rob,



???okay, now you got my attention. Did you plum the 3/8" tubing from the FASS to the stock fuel filter then from there use the OEM stuff to the pump or change that as well? I like the sound of what you did, just not sure what I need to change. Do I just need to buy a banjo fitting to finish the job?



This is getting fun! ;)
 
Seems like it is defeating the purpose of the FASS by running back through those restrictive lines and the factory filter.



JMO.



steved
 
I run my FASS straight to the VP. Tap my pressure off the VP port via diaphram type isolator. Fuel right in the stock VP port, no drilled banjos, nothing. Steady 13-14 PSI, never has gone below 10 psi, even on 5x5. Something else will break before I run out of fuel IMO.

Considered running the stock fuel heater, however I didn't after thinking this.....

The filter is where your going to get the restriction when it's cold. It will wax up in the FASS filters prior to getting to the stock filter/heater, thus doing you no good. I always put in 12 oz. of Power Service at every fill up, summer, winter doesn't matter. I've had no trouble starting in the low -20's F below zero, and have driven with no fuel pressure loss at -35 F below zero. Only trouble I've had with starting with FASS is when the trucks been sitting several hours and is "half warm" in a cold evironment, takes a while turning over then for some reason??? Other than that, cold or hot, fires right up. Still think about a heater occasionally and was just reading that somebody makes one that attaches right to the filter now??? May consider that if I ever have an issue, but so far, no problems.
 
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RSarvie said:
I run my FASS straight to the VP. Tap my pressure off the VP port via diaphram type isolator.



What port is this. I know of the line supplying the VP and the line exiting the VP. Is there another place to get pressure from? If it was not so late, I would go out and look right now. Anyway could you tell me a little more about what you did here. I already have an isolator, Would like to use what I have if I can. I will need a bigger gauge though. :rolleyes:



Thanks.
 
DD yes there is. I don't recall exactly where port off the VP is, but I ran a line from the stock fuel pressure test port on the VP to the isolator for my FP gauge. Look in my readers rig gallery, I have a pic of the isolator mounted on the side of the brake reservoir, not the greatest pic though.

As far as my FASS, I just pulled the stock line from the filter/heater off the fitting on the VP, crimped it off with a zip tie so it's there if ever needed, and hose clamped on the blue hose that comes right from the FASS, completely by-passing the stock filter/heater housing.

I'm at work, late, on Christmas night, with my car! So I can't do much more for you tonight, sorry. I'll try and check back again sometime when I can contribute more if you need, or give you some more specific pics. Was just looking for some info as I want to change my FASS filter and water separator.



EDIT: Updated my readers rig photos with detailed descriptions, hope that helps
 
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RSarvie said:
Was just looking for some info as I want to change my FASS filter and water seperator.



Baldwin's BT8509MPG (equal to the HF6607) is $53.



Wix's 51202 (nominal 5 micro) is $16, there are teo on EBay now... "hydraulic filter 51202".



steved
 
Thanks Steved, was just paging through your other thread trying to decipher what was the best filters and separators to get, this makes it easier as you've done all the work! Oo.
 
RSarvie said:
Thanks Steved, was just paging through your other thread trying to decipher what was the best filters and separators to get, this makes it easier as you've done all the work! Oo.





I'm going to run either the HF6604/HF6607s or the Baldwin BT8509MPGs as they seem to be the "easiest" to find and have about the best filtration. I currently have a 51202 on as I thought I was having filter plugging that turned out to be a broken spring in the FASS.



steved
 
I made a mainifold to go inline between my VP and FASS. I installed it about 12" back from the VP just because it was a good spot to mount it. But the idea was to get the pressure reading as close to the VP as possible.
 
Was probably going to try and find the 6604 depending on availablility. Didn't expect it to be a problem as I have several truck resource shops around. Got a link for info on the heater that attaches to the filter?
 
DirtyDodge said:
Rob,



???okay, now you got my attention. Did you plum the 3/8" tubing from the FASS to the stock fuel filter then from there use the OEM stuff to the pump or change that as well? I like the sound of what you did, just not sure what I need to change. Do I just need to buy a banjo fitting to finish the job?



This is getting fun! ;)

Hi Derek:

Yep what I did was take the fuel line supplied with the FASS to the inlet of the OEM FF via the stock fitting on the FF. (I know restrictive) But I left this hose long enough so in the warmer months it will go straight to the VP and bypass the OEM FF. The outlet on the bottom of the OEM FF is where I added a Banjo bolt that is tapped for the gauge and plumbed this in to the fitting supplied with the FASS for the VP. In the coming months I am going to do a little rearranging of the fuel line size and fitting on the OEM FF,both inlet and outlet so as not to be so restrictive. I really like the double filter protection as well as the heater when in the colder months, plus this way I will not have to mess with the fuel pressure gauge when I switch back and forth if I were to bypass the OEM FF in the summer.
 
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