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Fass Pump quit

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98 24valve AT Westach FP gauage Lo out put Fass Pump. 10K on Fass pump. The engine stopped when I first started it and the Fass didn't whine thewre was 0 fuel pressure. I crawled under and beat on the Fass pump with a rubber Mallet and it started to work. It was 20 degrees F at the time. The system has worked OK for several 100 miles since. Fass suggests replacing the brushes on the pump. What has been the experience of others with the Fass pump.



OlsonR, 98 24V AT DB torque converter, DB powerLock, DB TorqueLock, Pacbrake, TAG, Diesel Tech Radiowave filter on the wire from APPS to PCM

















T
 
My buddy has a 3rd gen that has a Fass pump that quit! He pulled the brushes out and reinstalled them and solved the problem. One of them was loose or in crooked! I have heard that they were having issues with this and have since redesigned the pump (got rid of the brush type system). It might be worth a try! Good Luck! :)
 
If you have the old style fass (exposed brush caps) You can remove them and clean the contacts. Reinstall and seal the threads with electrical grease and the outside of the plug with silicone.
 
my fass stopped working and it was the relay thats on the injector lines ... picked one up at autozone 4 bucks i think it is just a standered relay for fog lights just my 2 cents
 
The new motors on the FASS don't have external brushes... maybe brushless now??



Over 15k and counting on mine.



steved
 
Are the changes they made to the motor (to go brushless) blatantly obvious?



I'm getting ready to order a 95gph (with the filter/water seperator) and I'm not sure I want the brush-type motor. I've personally seen cases where the brushes failed in FASS systems and friends of mine were left on the side of the highway.



Matt
 
Yep, quite obvious...



Motor is slightly shorter... no aluminum end cap that houses the brushes. Basically if it has screws that look like you could unscrew with a dime (the brushes) then it has brushes... if it doesn't look like the motor even comes apart, then it is "brushless"... I am pretty sure they told me it was a brushless design now.



I have the "brushless" motor... if you know what the old style looks like, you can't mistake the two.



Here's my story: I ordered extra brushes when I bought my FASS 95 in October 05... got the FASS and I though I must be nuts because I couldn't fine anywhere these damn brushes fit... and everyone had indicated it was a "10 minute fix" to replace the brushes... well it looked to me like you needed to disassemble the entire FASS (motor and pump end) to even get the motor off, let alone get to any brushes... so I called the dealer I got the FASS from and was told it was the new motor style... didn't need brushes... sent the brushes back... end of story.



FASS is holding up good to date...



steved



steved
 
Why do want the one with the Fuel filter and separator? I just installed just the pusher pump and I love it. I have a solid 16 psi with stock filter drawn down to 14 at WOT. I see no reason why the stock filter isn't sufficient. I would have liked to had a spin on type filter for ease of change, but current isn't hard, and witht he fass, it primes so much easier. Besides I didn't want to spend an extra $210. Installation was a breeze BTW. The hardest part was getting the old fuel line off.
 
Cool - thanks for the info!

I hope I end up with a brushless FASS motor... I don't want anybody's "old stock".



DLGonzo said:
Why do want the one with the Fuel filter and separator?



The used Cummins ISB 170 (3. 9L HPCR) engine I bought for the Jeep project did not come with a fuel filter housing. So, I'm killing two birds with one stone - lift pump and fuel filter/water separator.



Matt
 
Some people (like me) like the idea of better filtration and elimination of the factory restrictive lines.



I considered the FASS II, but decided against it because I feared the FASS might have enough umph that it could push dirt through the factory filter if it ever plugged... and the factory filter is supposedly rated at 10 microns... with the FASS you can get down to 3 microns which is supposedly better for the CRDs.



It's all about personal preference... anything is probably better than the OEM stuff... IMHO, if you are bent on running a stock OEM pump, the best thing you could do (other than adding a fuel pressure gauge) is to put a screen between the pump and the tank to prevent grinding trash up in your pump... this holds true for those even running a FASS II.



steved
 
HoleshotHolset said:
Cool - thanks for the info!

I hope I end up with a brushless FASS motor... I don't want anybody's "old stock".



Matt



I doubt you would get a brush type now... it has been 6 months since I got mine... I think everyone got a brushless in that deal.



steved
 
steved said:
I doubt you would get a brush type now... it has been 6 months since I got mine... I think everyone got a brushless in that deal.



OK, cool.

Now I've been reading about the Walbro 242... :rolleyes: I'm still going to go with the 150gph FASS (with the filter/water separator), though - its beefy. :)



Matt
 
I talked with a vendor the other night who talked with Brad Ekstam about the 'brushless' pumps...



The new pumps are NOT brushless. However, the brush material has been vastly improved and they no longer are user serviceable due to being completely sealed. The going theory is that water and other goodies got into the pump through the brush service points and threw a monkey wrench in the works. If users have issues with the newer pumps, the pump will have to be swapped out.



The 150gph FASS I have on order is the old style with serviceable brushes. It will be mounted where it has no chance of being contaminated with debris...



Matt
 
Good Luck! Even though I faxed Fass the original invoice when mine quit, Fass would not honor the warranty because they did not have the registration card. In my opinion their customer service needs a lot of improvement.
 
I have over 150,000 on my FASS

and a couple of weeks ago I had the brushes checked - didn't need replacing at all - would have been a waste of $$$$$ - and yes it takes longer to get the wrenches and take my housing off (about 2 min) than to change and or check... ... VERY SIMPLE... .



And let's be realistic - no brushes doesn't mean no WEAR - I'd rather have replaceable bruches IMO... ... I mean I can assume that these are a wear item and check them accordingly - what do you check on a BRUSHLESS MOTOR???????
 
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