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FASS System

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Need some help

180,000 miles on the truck. Thinking about FASS system. In tank lift pump currently. Looking at upgrade to as preventive maintenance.
 
i installed my fass 150 about 400,000mi ago money well spent.deleted and removed factory filter and installed a pick-up tube in the tank.one of the better upgrades i have made.
 
I have been contemplating the same thing.

My personal preference would be to install the FASS 95GPH Titanium using the Glacier Diesel modified fuel module.

I would also install one of the electric fuel heaters and plumb the coolant fuel heater as well.
 
I've had my FASS 95 for about 90,000 miles now and trouble-free. I live in ND and do not have a heater on it or the Coolant heater. Hasn't missed a beat even at 40 below zero ambient temps.
 
Any advice on sump for a metal Transfer Flow fuel tank? Should I just run the draw straw? Is it ok to drill this tank and put the sump in? Not sure if I want to risk running into 1/4 tank fueling issues.
 
Any advice on sump for a metal Transfer Flow fuel tank?

Sumps are fro garbage and sewage, not fuel. Best advice I have. The tanks that mount n factory positions should already have canisters and you WANT to use them. A bed mount tank you can use a sump but you better filter it well before it goes to the main tank.
 
The 2003-04 Module works well I have a spare new one if looking ,Otherwise Vulcan has the modded modules. I'M with Cerb on sumps if you want serious HP suited well, DD use not so much.
IMHO those utility pumps (Pump and filter attach to block) restrict the owner on filters, You are better off buying the standalone Pump add your filter Head(s) to your liking and keep the factyory canister filter.
 
So the new FASS titanium comes with the billet tube mount and pick up tube. *I want to use factory style pump basket for fuel draw, can I just modify mine or do I really need to buy one with the factory pump gutted, made for exterior mounted pump?
 
You could modify your existing module, but, you are working on a 12 year old piece of plastic that has been subjected to the elements. Sometimes it is just more efficient to buy one already modded. Both Vulcan and Glacier Diesel have these canisters. Spend the extra time and $$ to get a new canister with multiple return ports and 1/2 pickup.
 
Cerb.. I get calls all the time on the module failure... Just Buy the Vulcan or Glacier.. If any back pressure develops in the return line (Injector) the Injector solenoids O-Rings will POP, You will have Gallons of Oil/Fuel Mixed in minutes. Also instead of returning the hot Fuel back to module add another port for the CP3 return line , dump that fuel on the fuel, NOT the module, all that hot fuel gets pump back to the Pump and Injectors when 1/4 tank or less..
 
Is the main reason for installing a FASS type air separator, to keep air from injector fuel supply? ...otherwise the 5.9 stumbles under load?
 
Is the main reason for installing a FASS type air separator, to keep air from injector fuel supply? ...otherwise the 5.9 stumbles under load?

The main reason is fuel supply. Air can cause wear, but normally it won’t stumble unless there are other issues.
 
The GP on Dodge 5.9/6.7 raises the internal Pressure to 1XXPSI By design the air will be forced to exit the return circuit to tank..the fuel is separated by the COV X% is used to cool and lube the internals the rest is used for combustion fuel. The Ecodiesel Ford 6.7 used the CP4 W/O GP. this pump is completely subject to the lift PSI. The CP4 has much lower internal pressure so COV distribution pressure is much less , a fraction of air is possible .00x. The 5.9/6.7 Dodge/Ram Cummins By design are immune form air problems. Fass/Airdog I don't like Airdog its China origins disqualify it IMO. Both of their systems have designed flaws... they work for filtering fuel, They will Never stop contaminated fuel x% will bypass, your wallet will grow legs at this point and run away form the impending withdraw.
 
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