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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) FASSmooooooooth

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) clutch and fly wheel

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Just installed the system today and man what an engine smoother . NO MORE BUCKING ON HILLS, EVEN ALL THE WAY DOWN TO 1250 RPM. :)

pia to get the bottom clip pushed in on the stock suction line at the tank.

I sold my EZ and while waiting on the Drag comp I can't play ie. no boost fooler.

I used a low oil pressure sender and a lights on buzzer for the low fuel pressure indicator. Works great PARTS $ 11. 50



Oo. The HTB2 64/14 goes on today Oo. Oo. Oo.
 
kswieringa

Just installed the system today and man what an engine smoother . NO MORE BUCKING ON HILLS, EVEN ALL THE WAY DOWN TO 1250 RPM.

pia to get the bottom clip pushed in on the stock suction line at the tank.

I sold my EZ and while waiting on the Drag comp I can't play ie. no boost fooler.

I used a low oil pressure sender and a lights on buzzer for the low fuel pressure indicator. Works great PARTS $ 11. 50





Where Did you put the low oil pressure sender and how low is it set?



Keith
 
"I used a low oil pressure sender and a lights on buzzer for the low fuel pressure indicator. Works great PARTS $ 11. 50"



Yeah, great idea. . Think Ill have to do something like that too. .



Ive been running a FASS for about 2 yrs now. It has been a great unit. Set it at 13psi, and cant pull it below 11.



Good luck on the turbo install.
 
Got the turbo installed . Would have been an hour out and in. But the exaust had to be a Jumbo PIA. $170 down pipe pointed up and right a little. Welds on DP looked like they were done by my five year old. :( Pyro temps run higher than the HY9 when accelerating until you get in the boost. Still waiting on the comp



Keith I put a tee at the gauge port on the FASS and the Low Pressure switch sets off at about 4-5 psi

NAPA part for OP6075 I think,early GM and the buzzer came from the HELP rack. . as a headlights on buzzer.



Where can you adjust the FASS fuel pressure? Is it in the Return fuel port? I pegged my 16psi gauge
 
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Thanks for the info on the low pressure switch.



To adjust the pressure on the FASS, remove the fuel return fitting. There is a ball & spring in there. I cut the spring down a little to lower pressure. Used permatex sealer on the threads on re-assy. It might take a couple of tries to get the pressure youre looking for.
 
Shortshift said:
There is a ball & spring in there. I cut the spring down a little to lower pressure. Used permatex sealer on the threads on re-assy. It might take a couple of tries to get the pressure youre looking for.



They make other springs to vary the pressure (12, 15, 17, 29psi... that I know of)... although people obviously cut springs, I wouldn't recommend it. And since the fitting that houses the spring is sealed with an oring, why did you apply permatex?



Isn't 5psi a little low for the VP44?? Or do you have a gauge as well?? I think IIRC, dodge used a 7 psi oil pressure switch in the 70s trucks/cars... it turned an idiot light on in the gauge cluster... it is actually quite small in size too. Might be something to consider as well.



steved
 
Why do you set the FASS psi ?



I had always thought that it is set for 26 psi?



I have never heard that before. But thanks for the info on the Low Pressure switch I got that planned for the weekend now



Thanks Keith
 
KDoerr said:
Why do you set the FASS psi ?



I had always thought that it is set for 26 psi?



I have never heard that before. But thanks for the info on the Low Pressure switch I got that planned for the weekend now



Thanks Keith



Not everyone (or every application) needs or wants 26psi. I got a 12psi spring in mine right now... holds right around 11psi, which is fine for a stock truck and the CP3.



And excessive pressure isn't good for the VP44 in the reading I have done... although lots of guys do it without ill effects. I think the general concensus is 14psi for the VP44s...



steved
 
5 or 7 psi either way on a FASS that looks like problems are coming.

The switch I indicated is a small diameter part . Approx. 1" by 1 1/2 long
 
But running your VP44 at 5. 5psi (just enough not to warn you) may not be good... that's all I was getting at... if there was a 10psi, that'd be better... I remember reading that you can get an adjustable Hobbs switch from Napa... don't remember that part number though... and like you, I'm running a 7psi switch supplied by DPP with the FASS... but mine isn't as critical on the CP3...



One thing I noticed with my pressure sending unit in the pressure port on the FASS is that if I hit a bump (and this isn't consistant... one time it'll be a truck shaker, the next will be a crack in the pavement) the low pressure light flickers. I don't know if this is common or not... was told that it is because air gets trapped in the filter and the jarring causes a "slug" of air through the check valve causing an instantaneous drop in the pressure (air moves easier than fuel). Don't really know for sure... changing filters doesn't seem to affect it.



And just FYI, I drain my FASS every tank into a clear glass jar... I fueled at a Sunoco Service Plaza (Westbound Mile Marker 305) on the Pa TurnPike last Wednesday... fuel from the screen was clean... fueled at the same place last night... there was sand in the screen... a lot of sand in the screen, probably close to a 1/4 teaspoon full. It is no wonder that the factory pump dies if it is required to pull unfiltered fuel from the tank... they are designed to pump fuel, not sand!!





steved
 
My point is it doesn't matter to me what the alarm psi is. If the fass pump quits, its going to drop below 5 psi hence alarm. You can look through the catalog at napa and probably find the psi you want. Let's all try not to over think the simple things. I posted the info about the switch in case others wanted to build the setup. Where's the sand coming from? Sounds like the Saudi's are getting to the bottom of the barrel. HE HE
 
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kswieringa said:
My point is it doesn't matter to me what the alarm psi is. If the fass pump quits, its going to drop below 5 psi hence alarm. You can look through the catalog at napa and probably find the psi you want. Let's all try not to over think the simple things. I posted the info about the switch in case others wanted to build the setup. Where's the sand coming from? Sounds like the Saudi's are getting to the bottom of the barrel. HE HE





I could care less to know if the FASS quits or not since you can hear it... I'm more worried about the filters plugging off and leaving you starving the VP for fuel at 5. 5 psi... but that's just my look on things. Of course you would hope that the fuel pressure light would come one since you should pull it down quicker at WOT.



I sure would like to know where that sand is coming from... I could just hear the guy with the PSD grinding it up on its way to the filter! :-laf



steved



steved
 
I care very much if my fass quits . You can hear it? Where did you mount it , in the cab? How often do you change your filter?

I have a gauge to monitor fuel pressure changes . The buzzer is for catastrophic changes ie. pump quits. Hence I don't care what the psi is as long as it indicates failure.
 
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steved



Like I said I think that that is a good idea and I will be doing it to my truck when I get time I just never thought of changing the spring for the PSI in the FASS. Because my FASS is still stock and I was wondering If i should do that to but now I'm wondering what is the FASS PSI at stock?



Thanks Keith
 
kswieringa said:
I care very much if my fass quits . You can hear it? Where did you mount it , in the cab? How often do you change your filter?

I have a gauge to monitor fuel pressure changes . The buzzer is for catastrophic changes ie. pump quits. Hence I don't care what the psi is as long as it indicates failure.



I can hear mine whining driving down the road over my straight pipe... besides, on my CP3, if I lose fuel, the truck dies.



And you said nothing about having a guage... I was going under the assumption that the light/buzzer was your only means of checking pressure.



In about 15k, I have changed filters three times... not because of necessity, but experimenting... I'll probably run until I start seeing the light bounce on then change or 30k whichever happens first. I'm running HF6604s... mine came with a HF6607 which I ran for a while, had the light bouncing on (later determined to be causes by air in the system) and changed to my backup filter (WIX51202) in the middle of new mexico, then changed to the HF6604 when I got back home (pennsyltucky).



steved
 
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KDoerr said:
steved



Like I said I think that that is a good idea and I will be doing it to my truck when I get time I just never thought of changing the spring for the PSI in the FASS. Because my FASS is still stock and I was wondering If i should do that to but now I'm wondering what is the FASS PSI at stock?



Thanks Keith



I think DPP makes an excellent product, but I feel they have a bunch of monkeys putting them together... I think basically you get whatever spring they have excess of at the time...



I was involved in a FASS group buy (got my FASS, low pressure light, and two extra 3micron Fleetguard filters for $585 shipped), I was the only one sporting 25+ psi out of the box. Had them send me a new spring (a 12 psi IIRC) which dropped me into the 11-12psi range... for some strange reason, that spring broke in half so I ordered another spring... no issues to date.



Other than the noise, which doesn't bother me, it has been an ideal upgrade.



steved
 
Steve

As I said I pegged my gauge. Until I get a new gauge or lower the Fass psi I can only wonder. I don't want too high of a pressure as it's not to good on the VP. If any one knows what a good psi is with Jammer 5's and a drag comp then please chime in.
 
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