Fifth Wheel Trailer Brake Wiring

[CROW]

I cannot find a wiring diagram for my trailer. Have spoken to several folks locally and do not get an answer. Even when new I was not as satisfied with the braking on this trailer with automatic brake trailer adjustment as compared to my old trailer with manual brake adjustment.
Trailer is a 2015 Big Horn two axles with automatic brake adjustment. Having to replace the brake components on the rear axle. Rear axle brakes were totally trashed for some reason, the front axle brakes were fine. Will be replacing the components on the rear in their entirety. The components are labeled left and right which makes sense. On the right side there are two wires coming from the brake magnet that connect to two wires running along the axle. All of these of these wires are black so apparently it makes no difference how they are connected. On left side there are two black wires coming from the magnet. Each of these wires is connected in a bundle to a brown and white wire. Two separate bundles. Six wires total.
Can someone identify the purpose of these wires??
Thanks in advance

 

[Topzide]

@CROW , You are correct on the magnet hook up. Doesn't matter how they are hooked up. They just need hot signal from brake controller and a ground. If they connected to a wire bundle without other connections, could be they just used a 6 conductor wire to run to axle brakes. If this is the case, you'd have extra conductors if one gets a break. Also could provide better protection of the wires. JM2C. Good luck with the repair.

 

[bcbender]

As Topzide said, just connect them the same way they were and you'll be fine, polarity is not an issue here. sometimes they daisy chain the wires so you have wires going from one side to the other on the axle (2) then to the brake (2) then to the front axle (2)... maybe more if routing to another location. My FR Sandpiper is not much better, all the wires are white or black... so it is a guessing game... doesn't matter is DC or AC circuit, seems like they put what ever wire was cheapest that week on the assembly line.

 

[endoscott]

I added a junction box on our 5th wheel trailer where brake circuit ends up at trailer (on mine under the slideout) and ran a separate run to each brake, using 14/2 SJOOW cable from McMaster Carr. The original wiring was just complete garbage, inadequate ampacity, terrible and brittle insulation and they run it inside axle tube where it rubs and eventually shorts. The EPDM insulation on this wire is awesome. You can run it externally to axle tube, it is oil resistant, water resistant, and super flexible. If you have a run to each brake separately you don't have that "daisy chain" where if the first one fails, they all fail. Most likely the crappy butt connectors they use won't last more than a few years. The newer heat shrink butt connectors are fine, but not the old school ones. I mean the wire is "expensive" but who cares? It's an easy DIY job, so you save the labor. I think I bought a 50 foot roll for $80 or something like that. If you are already screwing around under your trailer it makes sense to do this at the same time.

 

[bcbender]

I mean the wire is "expensive" but who cares?

a whole lot cheaper than getting in a wreck due to having no brakes.

 

[AH64ID]

As for performance when new, did you ever manually adjust the brakes after a few tows? And then annually? Even automatic adjusting trailer brakes need adjusted, especially early, to maintain even performance.

 

[CROW]

I never did manually adjust but probably should have. Trailer has easy lube bearings but I packed the wheel bearings several years ago and had a slight brake pad drag and thought adjustment was close and would be finally adjusted by the automatic adjusters. I have replaced with manual adjustment brakes. It appears as thought the automatic adjusters on the rear axle adjusted too far and eventually toasted the rear brakes. Will probably never get another fifth wheel, but if do disc brakes would be a nice.

 

[AH64ID]

It could also have been from the front ones not adjusting enough.

EZ-Lube bearings.. another marketing ploy that should be ignored on everything but boat trailers.

 

[Cummins12V98]

It could also have been from the front ones not adjusting enough.

EZ-Lube bearings.. another marketing ploy that should be ignored on everything but boat trailers.

I disagree. I used the EZ system for five years on my Mobile Suites with disks spinning the tire while pumping grease into and out the front til new grease showed up.

Decided to switch to oil bath and bearings looked new. Seals never leaked.

I would never use that system on drum brakes. But I will most likely NEVER own drums again!!!

 

[AH64ID]

I disagree. I used the EZ system for five years on my Mobile Suites with disks spinning the tire while pumping grease into and out the front til new grease showed up.

Just because you used it doesn’t mean it was correct.

Even Dexter says that use of the EZ-Lube zerk does not negate the requirement for disassembly, cleaning, inspection, and repacking of the bearings annually. Their repack instructions don’t even mention the zerk.

It’s a marketing gimmick that many fall for.

 

[Cummins12V98]

I did the push pull to inspect for loose bearings and it was always tight. Of course I used "AMZ/OIL" synthetic grease!

If you look it up they specifically show how to use the grease application. Some have a hard-on for it whether they have used it or not. Like I said I would not use with drums because you can't see if the seal is leaking grease.

You may want to post that part about Annually doing the full meal deal.

 

[AH64ID]

There is a lot more to the annual inspection than how loose the bearings are. Bad bearings can still feel tight.

 

[Cummins12V98]

There is a lot more to the annual inspection than how loose the bearings are. Bad bearings can still feel tight.

I also hit the hubs at every stop with IR gun. Like I said AMZ/OIL

 

[AH64ID]

I also hit the hubs at every stop with IR gun. Like I said AMZ/OIL

I run the same grease, and would never trust the zerk to replace proper maintenance. IR gun or not.

 

[Cummins12V98]

I run the same grease, and would never trust the zerk to replace proper maintenance. IR gun or not.

I did maintain it by flushing out the old grease, the bearings stayed tight, I had no leakage on back side of hub at seal, my temps stayed cool. Really see ZERO reason to do a darn thing different. My way resulted in prefect bearing surfaces after 5 years of full time use.

Not sure what a ZERK has to do with this as all it does is what it's intended to do and that is push out the old grease with new.

You say this is fine for a boat, not me as I had them and they no matter get salt water in them I have since gone to Dexters 5/100 warranty sealed hub assembly with disk brakes on my boat trailer. BYW they also have a grease ZERK at the end of the spindle and on the back side of the hub. They say it is not needed to use them as the warranty is good without doing a thing. Dexter just replaced one of mine that failed.

All I know is what I did worked great!

 

[AH64ID]

I said it’s only use is on a boat where you need to push water out.

As mentioned you can use it, but it’s NOT a substitute for actual bearing maintenance. End of story. I’m not sure why you are so stuck on a maintenance practice that isn’t recommend nor a complete procedure. Coming from the guy who went above and beyond with 68RFE flushes I’m surprised you half assed your bearing maintenance.

 

[jghflys]

As mentioned you can use it, but it’s NOT a substitute for actual bearing maintenance.

I have used the Dexter grease injection on my 2008 Jayco 34RLS that I have owned since new with zero issues,10s of thousands of miles towing. And, temperature monitoring is a required method of measuring bearing health on industrial motors, pumps, and fans. I have also done that for years in power plants and with my own equipment. Millions of motor, pump, and fan bearings are greased without disassembly and last for years of almost continuous running, including those that are outdoors. You can add millions of tractors and like vehicles to the list.

How often do you grease the front wheel bearings on you 2018? Never is the answer, they are sealed, unless you have upgraded them. I do my Dynatracs about every 80,000 miles. The point, yours is not the only method that works. Lighten up.

 

[AH64ID]

I have used the Dexter grease injection on my 2008 Jayco 34RLS that I have owned since new with zero issues,10s of thousands of miles towing. And, temperature monitoring is a required method of measuring bearing health on industrial motors, pumps, and fans. I have also done that for years in power plants and with my own equipment. Millions of motor, pump, and fan bearings are greased without disassembly and last for years of almost continuous running, including those that are outdoors. You can add millions of tractors and like vehicles to the list.

How often do you grease the front wheel bearings on you 2018? Never is the answer, they are sealed, unless you have upgraded them. I do my Dynatracs about every 80,000 miles. The point, yours is not the only method that works. Lighten up.

Haha… no need to lighten up, relax. Having fun.

Bottom line is that the manufacturer doesn’t recommended the maintenance practice you chose. Getting acceptable results from something that’s not recommended doesn’t make the unrecommended procure recommended for everyone else.

Temperature monitoring is indeed important, but not the end all be all of bearing health indication. It often is an indicator of issues, but not always.

I greased the wheel bearings on my 18 a mere 12K miles ago… a far cry from never, and they are stock. I am not able to disassemble them and inspect them thou, which would be nice but I’m not going down the spin-free road again. It never gave quantifiable returns. 2Lo was handy, but not needed and the steering felt better but that was about it.

I did my previous Yukon’s far more frequently than 80K miles.

 

[jghflys]

I greased the wheel bearings on my 18 a mere 12K miles ago

If you are greasing through the ABS hole, how did you flush the contaminated grease out? If you are not removing the old grease, then the method you use is less effective than the EZ-Lube method.

Temperature monitoring is indeed important, but not the end all be all of bearing health indication.

What other easily implemented action would you suggest to frequently monitor the condition of the bearings? Bearings get hot as they fail or need grease. I know, I have seen it.

I’m not going down the spin-free road again. It never gave quantifiable returns.

You missed the main point on the free spin kits. The front drive system does not spin and does not wear unless you are in 4WD. Less wear and tear, less maintenance, less parts replacement. And, based on observation of grease condition and bearings, 80,000 miles was a good frequency.

Bottom line is that the manufacturer doesn’t recommended the maintenance practice you chose.

It has worked for me for tens of thousands of miles with no failures and the bearings look good when I inspect, clean and lube the brakes. I have had the same results with my Big Tex 22GN gooseneck trailer. No failures and no bearing inspections. Inspecting for damage does not prevent damage. Effective maintenance equals no unanticipated failures. You and I use different methods and get the same results.

 

[Cummins12V98]

I said it’s only use is on a boat where you need to push water out.

As mentioned you can use it, but it’s NOT a substitute for actual bearing maintenance. End of story. I’m not sure why you are so stuck on a maintenance practice that isn’t recommend nor a complete procedure. Coming from the guy who went above and beyond with 68RFE flushes I’m surprised you half assed your bearing maintenance.

I made a comment on what I do and you are the one questioning everything I said but didn't give any backup to what I was doling as wrong.

So keep it going if you want but all I did was tell what I did and it worked towing a RV that is WAYYYY over the 8k axle rating.