Fighting to get out of park

[rrowdy]

This seems to be getting worse and it's so irritating I have to make a repair.
I'm wondering if anyone else has had this problem and what you did to correct it.
Pulling back on the shift lever does not always allow movement out of park and it takes a minute or so pulling, pushing
up, down, and around before releasing. It seems to be locked up in the column somewhere.

Thx

 

[p-Bar]

I think there is a switch for the lockout on the brake pedal that is causing this . Here's a link

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/250074-Column-shifter-stick-in-park?highlight=can't+park

 

[Bob4x4]

Normally 2 main causes,Brake interlock solenoid and valve body.Disconnect the solenoid it defaults to unlocked.Of course this is assuming you are not putting a load on the park pawl.

 

[MZahn]

Experienced the same issue. Pawl needed the worn spot from where the rod was at park position smoothed out with a dremel.

 

[Hoefler]

Had this issue on my 05, valve body fixed it.

 

[rrowdy]

Thank's to everyone for your input, If it weren't for this site, I'd probably have to be driving a Toyota Ughhh.
This gives me some places to start. I've ordered a new detent bullet & spring but will check the other items as well.

 

[avvblanc01]

If you can successfully rule out the brake switch and its the detent ball in the valve body. This happened to my truck, and its the result of a very poor design from dodge which allows the ball to wear into the valve body housing over time, causing the rooster comb for the shift linkage to jam.
You need to drop the valve body and replace the detent ball with a special piece called a detent bullet from georend. Its a $15 part, but the labor to have it installed is a bit more pricey unless you're comfortable to do it yourself.

here is a video so you can see the part and whats wrong:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ttBlZJjCB4

 

[p-Bar]

If you can successfully rule out the brake switch and its the detent ball in the valve body. This happened to my truck, and its the result of a very poor design from dodge which allows the ball to wear into the valve body housing over time, causing the rooster comb for the shift linkage to jam.
You need to drop the valve body and replace the detent ball with a special piece called a detent bullet from georend. Its a $15 part, but the labor to have it installed is a bit more pricey unless you're comfortable to do it yourself.

here is a video so you can see the part and whats wrong:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ttBlZJjCB4

I'm hoping this was done when I bought the goerend valvebody

 

[avvblanc01]

Id hope so! its honestly such a terrible design for a part that gets used literally every time the truck drives.

It sounds to me like this is the OP's problem though and not the brake switch. I fought with mine for a while but it finally got so bad that the truck would get stuck in park if ANY weight was resting on the trans and not the parking brake, so I bit the bullet and had a shop drop the valve body. Now the shifter moves smooth as silk!

 

[cerberusiam]

Not really a bad design, been that way for 40 years and never was a huge issue. Part of the problem is they way it is used being subjected to excessive shifting action. The other part is just QC on the castings. Some trucks will go years and a lot of miles with no issues while others wear early. The fix is easy and there are several ways to do it.

 

[MLee]

How come no one uses the EM brake with a auto trans when parking any more? Set EM brake first, then put the trans in park. this also prevents the roll-a-way which is always possible. And, also does not load up the pawl pin/detent, making it hard to release. Problem solved.

 

[cerberusiam]

does not load up the pawl pin/detent, making it hard to release. Problem solved.

No, it doesn't solve the problem. The detent ball is wearing from use not jamming so setting the brake does nothing to remedy that. Setting the brake then shifting to park frequently does not engage the pawl as it is on a notched portion of the output shaft. If the brake releases suddenly under too much load the truck will take off anyway. Best to get the pawl engaged then set the brake. Will not solve the issue of jamming in park though nor the adjustment of the cable nor the range sensor setting nor the wear on the detent plate causing misalignment. Not JUST a simple thing most of the time.

 

[Bill Stockard]

How come no one uses the EM brake with a auto trans when parking any more? Set EM brake first, then put the trans in park. this also prevents the roll-a-way which is always possible. And, also does not load up the pawl pin/detent, making it hard to release. Problem solved.

It might not solve the problem, but it certainly makes it easier to get out of park when stopped on a slope. I got into that habit years ago driving Fords and carried it over to my Dodges.

Bill

 

[MLee]

It might not solve the problem, but it certainly makes it easier to get out of park when stopped on a slope. I got into that habit years ago driving Fords and carried it over to my Dodges.

Bill

This is the way do it to and it works for me. I just think its a bit lazy to not use the EB before placing the trans in park and save the mechanics of the thing.

 

[RVTRKN]

How come no one uses the EM brake with a auto trans when parking any more? Set EM brake first, then put the trans in park. this also prevents the roll-a-way which is always possible. And, also does not load up the pawl pin/detent, making it hard to release. Problem solved.

I go one step farther, and shift to Neutral first, then set EB, then shift to Park.

 

[avvblanc01]

Shifting into neutral and setting the parking brake is how i have always done it, however the previous owner of my truck must have liked to just throw it into park because when i bought the truck, the shifter was already having issues.

 

[cerberusiam]

Place trans in park to make sure the pawl engages then set the brake is the only way to do it correctly. 50% of the time setting the brake first does NOT engage the parking pawl which makes the truck, and load, a runaway waiting to happen, The bigger the load and steeper the slope the greater the chances of somethin' bad gonna happen.

 

[MLee]

Yes Cerb. is right, it can happen. Just use what ever method works for you nuff said.

 

[petersonj]

I go one step farther, and shift to Neutral first, then set EB, then shift to Park.

I use this option all the time on vehicles with automatic or manual transmissions. After I set the park brake in neutral, I release the foot brake to put the load on the on the park brake, and then shift the transmission to park or first gear (manual). This method also gives me a sense of how well the park brake is working when parking on a hill. It is amazing how many vehicles (not my own) I have done this with and the park brake doesn't hold.

-John

 

[RVTRKN]

Place trans in park to make sure the pawl engages then set the brake is the only way to do it correctly. 50% of the time setting the brake first does NOT engage the parking pawl which makes the truck, and load, a runaway waiting to happen, The bigger the load and steeper the slope the greater the chances of somethin' bad gonna happen.

I guess your right about that, but if your in park and your front wheels are turned in the correct direction, per the slope your on if any, and you have the EB engaged, no insurance company will worry about the method you used getting to it, IF it happens

petersonj, I also shift into gear on my 07 C&C truck after shuting it down, BUT that practice is discouraged when driving Big Rigs, just some extra info on the subject.