You missed the point.
A new filter just installed lets more inpureties pass thru until the Big micron holes are made smaller by catching the inpurties adhearing to the oil molecules.
The only cost savings i'm interested is the life of the eng--not filter or oil cost. .
CASE in point/an easy'er demo. Test it tomorrow!! Air filter restruction gauge was mentioned, IF you have a clean new filter in now,load down that rig/eng with heavy load
and climb the steepest grade you can find,and then check the restriction gauge needel,or raise the hood and check the plastic one on the air box (If it still works)now do the same with the last filter you removed because it was about half way to the red line,say 15 when you replaced it!just about the time those large holes were starting to do a better filtering job...
Now you have a better understanding of the full to the brim lube filter/say a 1/4 down lube level. Couple that with a used lube sample sent in to the lab of your choice & at the same time a sample of clean /unused lube and you get a idea if for your usage you should change lube/filter's sooner or later. As far as test lab's go they want to see a couple 3 used lube samples to see a set pattern. And a clean sample to know what is mfg'ed into the lube(additives) They need to know the wt you started with,say 15w40 but i like to with hold the brand,just to keep them with an open mind-Most will give you a call if the sample has a proplem,long befor you get the test results in the mail
A new eng /trans r. end lube will see high numbers till the compent is seasoned(broken in) and all other junk(say mfg. dust/material ) has been flushed out.