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Fuel Pressure Gauge

Clutch, Exhaust options...Just need help

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rhoads

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Do's anyone know how to tell when a filter is used and it is doing it's job?? And how to tell it was ready to be changed??
Which filters better a new filter or a use'd filter. air exclud'ed.
 
If you have the ability to measure differential pressure, or the pressure drop across the filter. For instance, inlet pressure is 40 psi and outlet is 35 psi, there would be 5 psi of 'differential pressure or 5 psi of pressure drop across the filter. Usually, when a full flow oil filter has 5-7 psi of differential pressure, it will begin to 'bypass' oil flow and should be replaced.



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Hear we are talking about not having gauges-oil sampels(they nave nothing to do with the filtering cap of the filter)???? try again.
 
I don't know, weigh the filter, thump it like a watermelon? #ad

A dirty filter will filter finer(better?) because the crud will act as a filter, but you will get less volume out of it.
 
Originally posted by Cooker:
redram,
Thanks for the useful info. Does this go for all kind of filters (fuel, oil, hydralic, ect. . )

Ryan

This would be applicable for most full flow filters of any fluid. If the capacity of one brand of filter is greater than another, it should be possible to measure pressure drop of a clean new filter on initial installation and come up with a pressure restriction for a diry one. That's what the 'Filter Minder' is on the air cleaner housing. It measures the vacuum being created in the inlet side of the air induction. If the vacuum increases it could be assumed that the air filter is restricting air inlet flow. A form of pressure drop.

Redram

PS_ Don't be mislead by the few posts. I have a degree in engineering and work in the lubricant field selling industrial oils to major plants worldwide.

What the heck was TDRbammer rambling about?



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I was saying that you can BY sight tell(with out the use of ristrication gauge's ) IF the lube filter you just removed ,could have been left in service longer. Or you should have gotten it off sooner.
In the first case (full) to the brim ie, flows down the side's when trying to remove(still many miles/filtering capacity left).
Second case say 1/4 -half way down that is the deg that the capacity has been used up.
The micron,size of the (hole)in the fitlering meta-paper/ glass .
As the filter holes get smaller & smaller they do a better filtering job.
You could use a smaller micron element but it would have a higher restricton ly last half the time . Say 10,instead of a 20.
Say you just took of a spin on filter off and it runs down the side just as it is broken loose from the gasket-IN short it is a better than the new on you are about to install.

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96-3500 SLT EXT. CAB AM/FM/CD-RINO LINER. D-CELERATOR EXH. BRK-RED LINE VAC. OVER HYD BRK CONTROL- AIR BAGS W/HVY DUTY AIR COMP. PUTCO S/STEEL DEEPBOARDS FRONT TO REAR. REESE 20K 5TH WHEEL & GOOSE -REESE 20K HITCH BELOW W/17K RECEVER. CLEAR COATED & SOUND DEADINGING &UNDER COATED 5 SPD/W 4:10 MCHLN'S 235/16'S UNIDEN PC76/WEATHER-WILSON 1000 MAG MOUNT ANT. 4 WHL ANTI LOC BRK SYS.
750,000 miles
 
I personally don't see any reason to worry about it. If I am taking off an old filter I probably have a new one ready to put on. I wouldn't lose any sleep over a $5 filter when I know I'm protecting a $4,000 motor.

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'95 2500 Ext. Cab, 2wd 3. 54 limited slip, auto, TST 230/605 plate, TST low stall T. C. , K&N air filter. I have to tell you, I LOVE MY TRUCK!!!!!!
 
Actually Steve it's a $10,000. 00 engine (if you buy it directly from Cummins). The option price is four thousand plus.

I agree with you protect the engine its worth more than getting a few thousand miles more out of a filter.
 
You missed the point.
A new filter just installed lets more inpureties pass thru until the Big micron holes are made smaller by catching the inpurties adhearing to the oil molecules.
The only cost savings i'm interested is the life of the eng--not filter or oil cost. .
CASE in point/an easy'er demo. Test it tomorrow!! Air filter restruction gauge was mentioned, IF you have a clean new filter in now,load down that rig/eng with heavy load
and climb the steepest grade you can find,and then check the restriction gauge needel,or raise the hood and check the plastic one on the air box (If it still works)now do the same with the last filter you removed because it was about half way to the red line,say 15 when you replaced it!just about the time those large holes were starting to do a better filtering job...
Now you have a better understanding of the full to the brim lube filter/say a 1/4 down lube level. Couple that with a used lube sample sent in to the lab of your choice & at the same time a sample of clean /unused lube and you get a idea if for your usage you should change lube/filter's sooner or later. As far as test lab's go they want to see a couple 3 used lube samples to see a set pattern. And a clean sample to know what is mfg'ed into the lube(additives) They need to know the wt you started with,say 15w40 but i like to with hold the brand,just to keep them with an open mind-Most will give you a call if the sample has a proplem,long befor you get the test results in the mail
A new eng /trans r. end lube will see high numbers till the compent is seasoned(broken in) and all other junk(say mfg. dust/material ) has been flushed out.
 
illflem
How long the drain plug is left out won't
and doe'snt apply any suction on the oil filter contants. flow is suction to -pump-to- you know>.
 
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