Filthy Fuel Filter....and future preventative maintenance

[Homicide]

Picked up a 2006 Dodge TDC 4x4 earlier this month and finally dumped the oil and fuel filter..... GLAD I DID (see earlier post)



The fuel filter was black and filthy. I mean Filthy, Filthy.



Additionally the moron who did the last filter change didn't use the o-ring.



My big question is what can I do in preventative maintenance, what do I look for in terms of damage done from using the same fuel filter for maybe 50,000 or more miles.



I figure the fuel filter still did its job, but dirt leaked through and maybe damaged ????



I figure, I'll change the fuel filter in about 3-5k miles again.

 

[CKelley1]

the dirtier a filter get's the better it filters. the way you are suppose to change the fuel and air filters is by the filter minder and fuel pressure gauge. the 06 will have about 8 psi at the cp3 wait until it drops to about 4 before changing. the stock filter is not good enough for the cr. read the following that i sent someone

we mount the filters just forward of the fuel tank. we run a fleet of dodges and recently installed one on a 06. there is two bolts through the floor board for a rear seat option at this location. some of our trucks use them others do not. get a 2" x 3" piece of angle iron 6" long. make a card board template that the two bolts and keeper nuts will go through hold the template on the inside against the 2" part and drill the two holes they will be about 5/8" i think and about 3 7/8 " between. center the holes on the 2" and near the edge on the 2" hold the angle iron over the bolts with the 3"part the furtherest away from the tank and drill a 1/4" hole between the two holes, keep drilling through the floor board. now after you mount the filters to the angle iron just simply mount it with a 1/4 grade 8 bolt. this is the only hard part the other items is easy. the total time including building the bracket is about 1 1/2 hours. i will give you napa numbers but they can cross reference to wix or car quest. the two bases are 4770 the water separator pre filter is 3374 the 2 micron filter is 3674. use a 3/8" nipple with about 1/2" space in the middle connect the two bases together observing the in and out. because of this the mounting plate on one filter base is about 1" further out than the other. install two 90* 3/8" barbed fittings on the bases and temporary bolt the angle iron up and hold the filters up to it. make sure everything clears and mark the one base that touches the plate to drill the three holes to mount the filters. next cut the feed fuel line at this location and bend the lines out a little and install 3/8 hose over the lines and to the barbed fittings. i put a small amount of flair on the steel lines. but i do not think it is necessary. Bleed the air out through the stock filter before trying to start it. use a gauge and do not change the filters until you see a four pound drop this should be about every 150,000 miles and the stock filter will never need to be changed.



the dirty one i used cheap steel bases and cut new threads on the inserts on the lathe to fit the filter. your filter base has two inlets and two outlets on each base be careful to connect the nipple between the outlet of the first filter to the inlet of the second. only one of the bases get's the bolts as the offset places the second base about a inch away from the plate. we use to make spacers on the first ones and then decided they were not needed

jason the cp3 will put out full power with input pressure from 22 psi to a minus 5 psi. this is from Bosch recommended speck. Bosch told Chrysler not to go above 5 microns on the filter because of wear. you have a 10 micron filter. the larger cr engines and the 5. 9 industrial use 2 micron filters we run a fleet of dodges and the first 03 we got had all kinds of problems with the injectors. Bosch worked with us to find the problem. once we started using the new filter setup we have never had another problem. i stock a huge amount of filters for my equipment and to start with i used what i had in stock and modified a cheap steel base to accept the filter i wanted to use. over the last 8 years we have refined our selection to two filters and found bases that cost more but do not require lathe work. we have it down now to a one hour total time to build and install cost even with the expensive bases is about $120. you will never have to replace the stock filter and depending where you get your fuel you can get up to 200,000 miles between filter change. i can send old pix of installs before we settled on the two we now use. i have one pix of the new bases on a 03 and when it becomes time to change i will replace with the two new. email me your email address to -- email address removed -- and i will send pix and instructions

these are old pix some date back to 03. most of mine i use a cheap steel base as shown on a new install on a 06 before cleanup but i have to cut new threads on my lathe to fit the filter. the parts listed are plug and play. the pix using the base listed was installed on the 03. none of the pix show the filters used now. we standardized to the two listed in 06. there are pix of where the two bolts are, both the single seat and double seat are shown. a one plate pix home made plate is shown but took all day with mill and lathe to make. we have it down now to one hour total time to build and install and that includes time rounding up parts. to drill the holes i made a template out of cardboard and keep it for the next one. your first one will take about two hours because you will have to keep holding things in place before mounting to make sure of clearance.

#ad


#ad


#ad




#ad


OK, here's the way I assembled my remote filtration and water separator along with pics and hardware. First off, I use 2 Baldwin FB1311 Filter Bases, a BF1259 Water Separator, and a BF7587 2micron filter. Since the Baldwinn bases are threaded 7/8-14UNF, I had to get the adapters at a local hydraulic hose fabricator. I needed 2ea 7/8-14 to 1/2NPT 90 elbows for the in and out ports along with 2ea 1/2NPT to 3/8 hose barb. For the base connectors, I used a male and female 7/8-14 to 10JIC swivel. The mounting base is just a piece of 1/4" flat stock that measures 3. 75" X 12" with holes drilled to accommodate the 3/8-16 Stainless bolts and washers. The filter base has 4 of these holes per base. You can see by the length if the filters that I want them up as far as I can get them. I will probably use the seat mount bolts to attach the assembly but I want to wait until I do the dynamat so I can have a better view of the upper and lower areas at the same time. I may change the barb fittings for a 1/2NPT hose, or depending on the orientation of the assembly, just go with a straight input and output type of fitting. All that will work out once I weld the additional mounting piece(s) on the flat stock. But the long and the short of it is, it's just a modified version of the nice one that carl48 worked up. This is By sur5er

also your truck has in-cylinder egr and produces massive amounts of carbon in the oil. use a lf16035 filter and get a bypass filter. you can get rid of a lot of the egr and get about 40% increase in mpg

 

[HEMI®Dart]

I noticed the same thing on my 12V

It is asphaltene collecting on the filter are a result of the refining processes used to make USLD. Somehow they 'uncrack' out of the fuel.



More info below:



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...98/225698-cut-open-my-fs1253-fuel-filter.html



I bought a quart of this from Geno's. But at 4. 8 oz per 35 gals it is not really worth the money.



FLEETGUARD CC2597 ASPHALTENE CONDITIONER-Dodge Cummins Diesel Truck Accessories – Geno’s Garage

 

[Homicide]

Ckelley1 and Hemi(R)Dart,

tks for the responses. Excellent fix for the problems Ckelley1. Hemi... that's exactly how the filter looked. I thought the idiot sucked in a lot of dirt. Luckily I changed the filter and used the O-Ring. thanks again. Steve aka "Homicide"

 

[pjorlando]

I was changing my fuel filter about every three thousand miles. My truck would loss power, mostly when running hard on open roads and running up long hills in upstate New York. When this happened, I'd pull over, change the fuel filter and be off, running like new. After going through 6 filters in 15 thousand miles, I pulled the tank, thinking I had a biologic problem, inside was clean, pulled the intank pump, it had the black goo in it, just like the filters had. Since the tnk was out and I was tired of changing filters on my trips, I installed an Airdog ll, with fuel/water seperator and 2 micron filter. I always keep a spare filter with me, just in case. It has been about 5 thousand miles now and no hint of any power loss yet. I'm probably cursing myself by thinking that. But so far, so good. Maybe the seperation of water and fuel prior to the hot engine bay is helping.

 

[pjorlando]

It's now November and 10 thousand miles later. The truck was a little fussy starting the last few cold mornings. Otherwise, it ran fine. I did hear a more noticable whine coming from the AirDog unit though. Changed both filters and found the 2 micron unit clean, the water seperator, even after draining it with every tank fill, had a cloudy, brownish black debris in it. I think it is doing it's job as expected. After changing both filters, the whine is all but gone, and the truck still runs great. I almost forgot, she fired right up today when starting up cold. I've driven a few times pulling about 7000 lbs, up and down hills in upstate New York, and no issues so far. I'll still keep replacements in the truck, just in case.

 

[ACerf]

I have been changing the Fuel Filter when I do my oil change at 5,000. When I was leaving the filters in for 15,000 they were getting to dirty. Since the CP3 pump was changed I decided to switch to the 5,000 Intervals. The CP3 pump was not bad, but the dealer thought it was. It turned out to be a bad injector. This also made realize that the fuel filter needed to be change more often.