2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Finally got this rough riding SOB to ride smooth

[JBlackwell]

I can't believe I have been driving my CTD the way it is for over 3 years now. The rear springs are so stiff when empty that it just started putting my back in a strain and I am only 23 years old. Out here in the country, there are a lot of roads that need maintence done to them. I know you guys with 2 wheel drive trucks know how bad the ride is. I even have a LWB at that.

I still need to change out the factory shocks, but it is 200% better already.



What I did was pull the leaf packs out. On the main spring pack I pulled the 3rd leaf out and flipped the overload leaf over. I bolted them back together, but this time bolted the top 2 overload leafs to the main springs pack. I removed all the blocks, the ones under the spring pack and the one that is between the main springs and overloads. It dropped the truck 2 3/4" in the rear. It looks A WHOLE LOT BETTER now. The rear was setting 5" higher in the back then the front.



If anyone is interested, I can do a write-up on it with finalized pictures of what the springs look like now.



Later,

JD

 

[rspinks]

Yes please

Some pictures would be great, before and after if you have them.

 

[RustyJC]

A set of Rancho RS9000's (the old 5-position ones) set on 3 front/2 rear when empty and 4 front/5 rear when towing our 5th wheel did the job for us.



Rusty

 

[Boondocker]

alignments and other questions

Did you shim your axle to correct the driveline angle?

Vibration and premature driveshaft U-joint wear are potential problems if your front and rear angles are out of phase.



Did you adjust your headlight aim?

On-coming drivers might appreciate it. Our headlights aren't so good even when properly aimed.



Did you use new U-bolts or modify the stock ones?



Did you adjust the brake proportioning valve?

It's supposed to be load (read height) sensitive. Theoretically, increased load causes increased rear brake bias. However, I've not been able to confirm this - how to determine the ratio of bias and how to adjust it. It's probably in the Factory Service Manual.

I suppose if you can tell that if your rear brakes lock up quicker or lock up when they didn't before, that would be an indication of too much rear bias.



I apologize if my questions sound critical. It's just that I've considered various means of rear end lowering and softening and have not been able to satisfactorily answer all of my own questions.



I do notice, however, that my truck levels quite nicely and even smooths out a bit under the 1500-lb. pin weight of my 5th wheel trailer. It seems that if I want it all - unladen level ride height and smooth suspension plus max load capacity, the solution will be more expensive and probably involve air bags.



Let us know how your solution works out.



Thanks,

Neil

 

[JBlackwell]

Re: alignments and other questions

Originally posted by Boondocker

Did you shim your axle to correct the driveline angle?

Vibration and premature driveshaft U-joint wear are potential problems if your front and rear angles are out of phase.

No, I didn't need to shim it. Checked the angle and it looks good.

Originally posted by Boondocker

Did you adjust your headlight aim?

On-coming drivers might appreciate it. Our headlights aren't so good even when properly aimed.

I sure didn't. As a matter of fact I needed to raise the headlight beam until I lowered it. It is a lot better now

Originally posted by Boondocker

Did you use new U-bolts or modify the stock ones?

No, used the originals. They almost didn't have enough threads, but they worked.

Originally posted by Boondocker

Did you adjust the brake proportioning valve?

It's supposed to be load (read height) sensitive. Theoretically, increased load causes increased rear brake bias. However, I've not been able to confirm this - how to determine the ratio of bias and how to adjust it. It's probably in the Factory Service Manual.

I suppose if you can tell that if your rear brakes lock up quicker or lock up when they didn't before, that would be an indication of too much rear bias.

I didn't do any adjusting on that. Only had time to take it a few miles down the road. However, I will get back to you that one. I put over 600 miles a week on my truck and will note any changes good or bad. You might want to remind me to tell you next week.

Originally posted by Boondocker

I apologize if my questions sound critical. It's just that I've considered various means of rear end lowering and softening and have not been able to satisfactorily answer all of my own questions.



I do notice, however, that my truck levels quite nicely and even smooths out a bit under the 1500-lb. pin weight of my 5th wheel trailer. It seems that if I want it all - unladen level ride height and smooth suspension plus max load capacity, the solution will be more expensive and probably involve air bags.



Let us know how your solution works out.



Thanks,

Neil

You haven't bothered me at all. You can always take out the leaf that I did and leave the block under your truck to keep it setting a little higher for when you tow. Between the 2 3/4" that my truck lowered to, the 1" block of course lowered it 1" and the leaf I took out lowered it the other 1 3/4".





Later,

JD





P. S. Will get a few pictures taken in a day or so. Sorry, I don't have any before pictures, but you can look at your trucks leaf setup for a guide of before and after.

 

[JBlackwell]

Re: alignments and other questions

Originally posted by Boondocker

Did you adjust the brake proportioning valve?

It's supposed to be load (read height) sensitive. Theoretically, increased load causes increased rear brake bias. However, I've not been able to confirm this - how to determine the ratio of bias and how to adjust it. It's probably in the Factory Service Manual.

I suppose if you can tell that if your rear brakes lock up quicker or lock up when they didn't before, that would be an indication of too much rear bias.

OK, I know exactly what you are talking about now. Found out last night that the rear brakes are a whole lot more sensetive now. If I give the brake a good firm and quick press, the rear brakes will lock up. I found the box and ride adjustment arm in the back under the frame. Looks like a simple fix, but involves a little bit of work. Seems that when you put a load on it, the pressure will increase in the rear brakes. I can pull out the rods for the arm and cut them down to the correct height that it was before I lowered it and then reweld it back together. Looks like a good project I can take pictures of and post. Doesn't look like it is too involved at all.





Later,

JD