Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Finally installed my Cobalts

[MKinner]

Finally installed my Cobalts, Informative

Finally got my Cobalts installed yesterday. Absolutely love them! They are an excellent quality gauge with very simple high quality sending units. Gauge response is very fast. I did the 3 gauge pillar mount and used the mopar factory paint (Laz Agate from Geno's) which matches very very close. Decided to mount the new pillar mount over the factory pillar which worked out well. I also installed the Autometer LED dimmer and it works perfectly. You can actually turn the lights in the gauges all the way off if you prefer. Lighting is very sharp and easy to read, day or night. The quality of the wire harness is also very good with simple 3 wire weather sealed connections on the boost sender and the fuel pressure sender. On the gauge end is the other simple plug in connection. The biggest PITA is running the wiring. If you have time to run it correctly, it won't be too bad. I chose to run it though a black wire loom. The only drawback these gauges have are their price and the different color of the lighting at night from our trucks. It actually took me a while to come up with all the parts that i needed to do my install so i will put a list together with as much info as i can.

Autometer 3 gauge pillar mount w/Speaker- P/N 17205
Cobalt 0-60 psi Boost- P/N 6170
Cobalt 0-30 psi Fuel Pressure- P/N 6161
Cobalt 0-1600 Pyro- P/N 6144
Autometer LED dimmer- P/N 9114
Autometer 3' Braided fuel line, includes fittings- P/N 3227
Pressure Snubber 1/8" NPT Male/Female from Diesel Innovations ( warranty void if not used on Cobalt fuel gauge according to Autometer)
Tapped banjo fitting from Vulcan Performance- P/N TBB
Mopar Trim paint(Laz Agate)- P/N E82201399
Bulldog Adhesion Promoter(works excellent)-Can purchase from Wal-Mart
Posi-Lock( http://www.posi-lock.com/ ) Fuse holder, Posi-Tap, and Posi-Lock assortment. First time using them and they are awsome.
1/8" NPT tap- Got mine from Napa
small spool of 18 gauge wire- Just in case, lol
Lock-Tite 545 thread sealant
Weatherhead 3/4" NPT male to 1/2" NPT female, 1/2" NPT male to 1/8" NPT female steel fittings- For boost gauge sender

Overall, the installation took most of the day. When it was finished, everything worked flawlessly with no leaks. I'm not going to lie, this installation was pretty pricey, but i feel for me it was well worth it. I will post some pics as soon as I figure out how. #ad

 

[MKinner]

This is the fitting I used to install the boost sender. There is a 3/4" pipe plug just behind the fuel filter and everything just bolts together and that is it for the boost sender. Very fast and simple install.

 

[MKinner]

This is the gauge end of the wiring. Simple plug in connectors that are clearly labled. They are the same so be careful not to mix them up!

 

[MKinner]

This is the connection at the VP-44. Simply unscrew the schrader port and thread in the taped banjo bolt with new washers. Then connect the stainless braided hose with the supplied fitting. At the other end, connect your fitting adaptor to the hose, then the snubber fitting and finally the fuel pressure sender. Since there is plenty of hose (3ft. ) I ran it close the firewall as I could to keep it away from engine vibrations. The gauge movement is absolutely smooth as silk. Too bad it moves at all... .

 

[MKinner]

Installing the Pyro probe was quite easy. I used the instructions from TST's website and everything worked out great. I chose not to remove the turbo as I didn't feel like disturbing it. I just simply let it idle for a few minutes to let any tiny shavings work their way out. There is a set screw on the fitting so you can adjust the depth of the probe and lock it in place. Time response on the gauge is very fast and smooth.

 

[MKinner]

Painting the new pillar mount was simple. I would recommend doing this step first to give the paint time to cure fully. It took me 3 cans of mopar paint before I got it right (gotta love dealerships ) I used the Bullydog adhesion promoter from wal-mart and the mopar trim paint. The two worked very well together for a nice even coat. I even used the promoter on top of the "wrong" paint that I used at first and still worked great. I have a can of mist grey and a can of dark slate if anyone needs it. Just send me a PM. I chose to install the mount over the factory cover. Remove the factory cover and remove the small speaker mounted to it. Basically the "hump" that the speaker fits into will have to be cut down on the original cover so the new mount can fit as tightly over the old as possible. It makes for a nice opening when feeding the wiring through. The tweeter will get relocated in the new mount. Be careful as to not let the new mount hang by the tweeter when running the wiring. Mine broke apart and I'm off to the dealer. Ooops. I had to drill another hole in the original cover higher up from the speaker opening to feed the speaker wire through when mounted in the new pillar cover. Wire wasn't quite long enough.

Didn't mean to make this long, just hope this will help someone out.

 

[BDR]

Congrats Mike, looks to be a very clean install. I noticed you had the dimmer from Auto Meter. So what do you think of it? Does it help to dim the Cobalts much? Would it be worth getting?

 

[Cooker]

Nice writeup.

 

[MKinner]

I think it is well worth it and it works very well. Simple to install and you can actually dim the lights completely out. I just mounted the dimmer knob on the lower trim screw next to the parking brake release for now. A bit expensive at about $35 for such a small part. Hope everyone has a happy New Years!!
#ad

 

[MKinner]

Here is one pic of the finished product. As soon as i get my computer straightened out I will post a pic with the lights in action.

 

[Cooker]

No snow on the ground! Must be nice The gauges look nice too.

 

[MErickson1]

Mike... Autometer should hire you to include detailed instructions for their gauge installations... . WOW. I will be printing this off when I install my Cobalts.



When you post more pics, can you include some night shots as to see what the Cobalts look like in the dark.

 

[MErickson1]

Just looking at the photos of your truck. Looks great... almost identical to mine, except that my sport is silver. Even right down to the window tint, which I had done last week (Hupor Optik). I wasn't sure if I should go with the chrome nurf bars or the black ones ?



Sorry to go off topic... just admiring your truck / my truck !

 

[Renntag]

I would like to see video of the warm up. What about playback? Gauge light up at max reading?



These gauges rock. Enjoy.

 

[MKinner]

Mike... Autometer should hire you to include detailed instructions for their gauge installations... . WOW. I will be printing this off when I install my Cobalts.

When you post more pics, can you include some night shots as to see what the Cobalts look like in the dark.

I will try to get some better pics of the gauges lit up in the dark. You will like how they look as they are really brilliant, nice and bright to read. You won't be dissappointed.

 

[COWBOYDUALLY]

Nice Install

Mkinner,

thanks for putting part #'s on here, those are some good lookin gauges, and it really looks professionally installed, my ISSOPro gauges are nice but have had MULTIPLE problems with them and have been considering a new setup. once again very great write up of how to do the job right Jeremy

 

[BDR]

MKinner~

So do you just splice the dimmer into the power wire to the gauge? How exactly does it install? Think I might need to get one for my gauges.

 

[MKinner]

Now for the Electrical

Getting power to the gauges is a fun little task. I used a spade type connector and modified it to fit in the fuse slot #16, which is ignition power. Then connected to the wire I used the Posi-Tap fuse holder and ran each red power wire from each gauge to the other side of the fuse holder. One wire one side, 3 wires the other side. I called up Autometer and they said to use a 5 amp fuse to protect all 3 gauges. This powers the gauges and now for lighting them up.


I used the special dimmer (http://www.autometer.com/cat_accessoriesdetail. aspx?vid=185) and was a snap to install. I used the Posi-Tap connector (blue) to tap into the parking light wire behind the headlight switch (black w/yellow tracer). Connect the purple wire from the special dimmer to this connector for your lighting power. Using the posi-tap blue butt connector, connect the white wire from the dimmer to the 3 white wires coming from the gauges. Then of course, your ground wires. You will have 4 black ground wires, dimmer/ 3 gauges. Use 2 eye connectors (2 wires in each one) and ground it to the left mounting stud at the base of the steering column and mount the dimmer and you are done. I decided to run the wiring through the firewall at the grommet just to the right of the clutch master cylinder. #ad

 

[BDR]

Thanks for the help Mike, your little write up will make it a breeze for me.

 

[MKinner]

Here are a couple of night shots. They are not the best pics but you should get a good idea. The gauges are at full brightness.