Finish Mower Blades

[BIGNASTY]

I bought a new finish mower and our Son laid claim to the 1971 B Hog 72" that needs new blades. Ive not got much experience with this type equipment so my question is, are 25" long 1/2" mounting hole blades all the same? I don't know of any single blade lawnmowers that swing a blade that big.

BIG

 

[Wiredawg]

Big, I have no idea about blade compatibility, but I have a single blade push mower with 24" blade. Bradley Even Cut. Not sure if this helps.

Cheers, Ronl

 

[TFucili]

Blades can vary not just by length, width, and center hole, but some have additional holes to index them to the blade adaptor, some are not dead flat but have anywhere from a small offset to a pronounced gull-wing shape, the amount of "lift" or wing built into the outboard ends, and the quality of steel they are made from. As to length, I remember Jacobsen(Homelite-Jacobsen at the time)had a mower deck with a single 30" blade. The issue is the government has limits on blade tip speed, so bigger blades have to turn fewer RPM to stay within the FPS standard. Generally, cut quality goes down, and the dead area toward the center being larger does not promote standing the grass up for a more even cut.

 

[AH64ID]

I would try this out.

http://en.oregonproducts.com/pro/lookups/selguide_bladelookup.aspx

Looks like they have blades up to 36" long.

 

[TFucili]

https://www.stenspartsdirect.com/bl.../rolled-medium-lift-blade-bush-hog-82325.html

 

[TFucili]

#ad

 

[Wiredawg]

Hey Big, How about I have a 2004 72" Bush Hog finish mower that uses these blades.

.
I haven't taken pain meds in weeks, but sitting and lying around is depleting my mind.

Anyway, maybe not too late to help.

Cheers, Ron

 

[BIGNASTY]

Hey Ron
Hope things are going better for your Medical issues. I had my other hip replaced a couple weeks ago, I too am Medication FREE!! I can't say that I don't get stiff as XXXX but its better if I keep moving.

My Son bought a set of blades that looks like they have teeth on the backside of the blade the therory is its supposed to increase lift and help prevent the windrow look, since its a side discharge deck. Haven't seen if they work yet I think that he may be waiting until I PUT THEM ON
HA HA HA HA HA thats going to be a long wait

Thanks for ALL replies from everyone

BIG

 

[Mark31]

Big, the Gator blades, IMO, are mainly for mulching dry leaves in the fall. They CAN be used for regular DRY GRASS mowing if the grass isn't tall as grass will get wrapped around the teeth. Just regular mowing you will be happier with regular blades. Different grasses will need more or less wing (or lift) on the blades. Poke your head in a mower shop and see what the people who cut a lot are using. If you have windrows, I would think you are cutting wet grass or you have a poorly designed deck that doesn't flow or either it needs cleaning. That caked on stuff will make a good deck do a whizz poor job. Make sure the deck is level side to side and the blades are about 1/8 lower in the front. Blades with less lift are easier to turn and less dust. Wear a mask-those "fines" don't do lungs any good. The Oregon blades are good-I've used a bunch of them, but I'm getting good service out of Rotary Copperheads on my 60" zero turn and a dealer has them for less than $11 compared to a national hardware chain for almost $18. Don't OVER TIGHTEN the blades as they are trying to tighten themselves while mowing. That way if you hit something solid, the blade will unscrew itself and fall on the ground rather than tear up the world and half of Georgia. When you change the blades the last time for the year, put some NeverSeize on the blade bolts or take off the blades unless you want to stew in your own juice the next spring. Git 'er done!

 

[Wiredawg]

Big, the Gator blades, IMO, are mainly for mulching dry leaves in the fall. They CAN be used for regular DRY GRASS mowing if the grass isn't tall as grass will get wrapped around the teeth. Just regular mowing you will be happier with regular blades. Different grasses will need more or less wing (or lift) on the blades. Poke your head in a mower shop and see what the people who cut a lot are using. If you have windrows, I would think you are cutting wet grass or you have a poorly designed deck that doesn't flow or either it needs cleaning. That caked on stuff will make a good deck do a whizz poor job. Make sure the deck is level side to side and the blades are about 1/8 lower in the front. Blades with less lift are easier to turn and less dust. Wear a mask-those "fines" don't do lungs any good. The Oregon blades are good-I've used a bunch of them, but I'm getting good service out of Rotary Copperheads on my 60" zero turn and a dealer has them for less than $11 compared to a national hardware chain for almost $18. Don't OVER TIGHTEN the blades as they are trying to tighten themselves while mowing. That way if you hit something solid, the blade will unscrew itself and fall on the ground rather than tear up the world and half of Georgia. When you change the blades the last time for the year, put some NeverSeize on the blade bolts or take off the blades unless you want to stew in your own juice the next spring. Git 'er done!

Mark, Your comment about Gator blades makes sense... I installed them this year on my zero turn and noticed lower performance in heavy field grass. When I get back on my feet, I'm going back to the blades that came on it.

Thanks for that info.

Cheers, Ron

 

[TFucili]

Clumping, and windrowing is hard to avoid with a 72" side discharge deck. That's a lot a material traveling across that deck. It's also important to keep the engine wound up to the PTO rated speed, or performance really drops off.

 

[GCroyle]

Those Gator blades on a 42" old Sears and they take long leaf pine cones and chomp em pretty good. They are the size of a kids football.

Keep healing up so you can get back into butt kicking mode.

 

[BIGNASTY]

Clumping, and windrowing is hard to avoid with a 72" side discharge deck. That's a lot a material traveling across that deck. It's also important to keep the engine wound up to the PTO rated speed, or performance really drops off.

Exactly why I went with a 84" Stainless Steel rear discharge King Kutter. I run the 45 HP at engine & 38 HP at PTO 540 RPM. The rear discharge virtually eliminates the windrow of clippings. The 72" side discharge will be fine for my Sons cutting he's not into the more manicured look I'm after

 

[BIGNASTY]

Keep healing up so you can get back into butt kicking mode.

Im working through the sorness of the hip replacements by staying on top of the chores around the Hobby farm. Up before daylight & usually having a cold one (or two) watching the sunset. Got to get in shape for hunting season in Montana this year

 

[jhenderson]

My buddy had both replaced at once. Recovery was fast at first but he’s finding the last 20% is slow going. With all your surgeries I’m sure I’m not telling you anything you don’t already know. Good luck.

 

[BIGNASTY]

My buddy had both replaced at once. Recovery was fast at first but he’s finding the last 20% is slow going. With all your surgeries I’m sure I’m not telling you anything you don’t already know. Good luck.

Lots of Pro's & Con's with doing both Knees OR Hips at the same time. Personally NO FRIGGING WAY IN XXXX would I do both at the same time. Hip recovery isn't bad at all compared to knees, a week and some serious work doing PT the hips are pretty much done, Knees aren't that easy. Was talking to a Guy that had Shoulder work. I think thats got to hurt everyones pain threshold is different.

 

[jhenderson]

The same guy I’m talking about has torn both rotator cuffs at different times. He told the woman at pt he had to be 100% as his company had no mercy( he’s now retired from his job as a millwright / rigger) and would have him hanging off a smokestack by his bad arm on his first day back. He says he’d come out of pt in February in a tee shirt soaking wet with sweat and tears in his eyes but when the therapist was done with him he was as good as new. As you’re more aware than most, your effort level makes or breaks the repair.