Fire danger of not keeping a RV refrigerator within 3 degrees of level: solutions

[Tuesdak]

Being somewhat new to RV use I was surprised at how little is said about keeping the RV fridge a maximum 3 degrees from level. If the fridge is not level it quits working. So What? Apparently when it quits working Norcold and Dometic allow the boilers to run wild reaching 800+ degrees. Norcold's recalls install a temp sensor to shut them down at 800 degrees and requires cooling unit replacement after that event. These high temps destroy the internal anti corrosion agents that can plug the cooling unit or allow corrosion over time to let the unit leak it's hydrogen gas and ammonia. Fires can result. Class action lawsuits have resulted when the recalls didn't solve the problem. Norcold has an three year warranty offered on some older cooling units as a result of the class action lawsuit. https://www.norcoldclassaction.com/faqs.aspx

I never gave it a thought, but, climbing a grade is enough to take the fridge off level long enough to overheat the boiler and start causing the long term damage. An 8% grade is 5 degrees off level. IMO the point of an RV fridge is to keep things cold on the way to the far off destination so this is a problem. https://www.arprv.com/damage-rv-fridge.php

One solution is to only run the fridge level. Another is to get an aftermarket device to shut down the heat source if the boiler gets too hot from being off level. ARPRV offers a controller that limits fridge boiler temperature and some models can control additional cooling fans. https://www.arprv.com/

The boiler controller doesn't solve all the problems, but, it looks to extend the life of the units by solving one of many design defects. One of the other defects is using too thin of a boiler tubing on some older models.

 

[GAmes]

I think you are making a mountain from a molehill. Thousands of miles of traveling all over the US and Canada with the frig on and never a problem. Parking is a different matter, but if it is level enough to sleep comfortably the frig is level enough also.

 

[RustyJC]

That's one reason our 5th wheel has a residential fridge. We have 2 friends who have lost RVs to fridge fires. I'd never go back to the RV-type fridge.

Rusty

 

[Regcabguy]

Mine runs on 12v when we're traveling. Not that efficient but safe.
We keep Nalgene 1 gallon bottles of frozen water in the doors.
My Dometic is ancient and has the manual controls. Love it.

 

[Jim W]

My older trailer had a NORCOLD RV fridge in it. We have traveled all over the US with this trailer and never had any issues when pulling the trailer up and down 6 to 7% slops. I think the issues that would happen with an RV fridge catching fire is when you are out of level over an extended period of time. When traveling up and down on the roadway the total time the unit maybe out of level could be measured in minuets not hours such as when you have set up.

Our new Cedar Creek has a Residential refrigerator in it with a 1000-watt inverter to use the 12V battery for power when we are not hooked up to shore power. As stated above I will never own another trailer with an RV fridge in the unit. These cool faster and are easier to maintain than a RV refrigerator and hold more items in the unit.

 

[mwilson]

I would sooner think it would be a result of not leveling one's unit as stated above. I've towed my RV's over some pretty crappy hilly roads with no issue and I ALWAYS level up when stopping for any length of time...arrived home last night about 10.00 and just plugged it in as I know the driveway is fairly level where I set the brakes...But in about an hour I will go out and make sure it is dead level.

 

[GAmes]

Those residential refrigerators are fine if you have a big RV with 50 amp service and never boondock. When we downsized from a 32 triple slide to our 27 single slide the amperage was downsized also. 30 amp service won't support a residential fridge along with the other appliances when we do have shore power.

 

[Tuesdak]

I think you are making a mountain from a molehill. Thousands of miles of traveling all over the US and Canada with the frig on and never a problem. Parking is a different matter, but if it is level enough to sleep comfortably the frig is level enough also.

I sincerely wish I was. After all some of the adsorption fridges from the 1930's are still running today! Sadly the two class action lawsuits and many fires suggest otherwise. Can't say I am thrilled to have one of the last (replacement fridge in the RV made in 2013) fire prone cooling units in my RV fridge. The real problem appears the two manufactures making their boilers too thin and unable to take abuse that other models can. The high heat ruining the anti-corrosion additive is where long term damage comes in from driving on grades. My RV travels will be taking me mostly on numerous local long steep grades making this out of level overheat condition more of a factor for me. Not all fridges are affected by this, just a million Norcold units and a bunch more Dometic units.

The take away from this is:
1) 3 year warranty on some older Norcold units starting at the end of 2016.
2) Keep your fridge level when parked or shut it off.
3) Consider getting an aftermarket boiler temp limiter controller if you have one of the affected models.

 

[GAmes]

What I take away is there was a few defective fridges produced between 2002 and 2013. Because of those Norcold is giving a three-year extended warranty covering replacement (parts and reasonable labor costs) of any cooling unit that fails due to a leak. Those three years have passed. If you didn't get a notice your fridge doesn't meet the criteria. I fail to see a problem with continuing travels up and down hills with my fridge running.

 

[Shadrach]

I never travel with the fridge turned on. The propane is also shut off when travelling. With the fridge cold from the night before and as long as the door stays closed the food is fine until we get to where we are going.
David

 

[Tuesdak]

What I take away is there was a few defective fridges produced between 2002 and 2013. Because of those Norcold is giving a three-year extended warranty covering replacement (parts and reasonable labor costs) of any cooling unit that fails due to a leak. Those three years have passed. If you didn't get a notice your fridge doesn't meet the criteria. I fail to see a problem with continuing travels up and down hills with my fridge running.

The three year warranty started October 24, 2016 the day the settlement was approved (and could be longer if your fridge has any warranty left on it.) (The forms to get shares have expired.)

"Besides receiving five shares of the gross monetary settlement, N6 and N8 Series
owners will receive an extended three-year warranty for cooling unit repairs, commencing
either when their standard warranty expires or the settlement becomes effective (whichever
day is later)"

 

[zb39]

What I take away is there was a few defective fridges produced between 2002 and 2013. Because of those Norcold is giving a three-year extended warranty covering replacement (parts and reasonable labor costs) of any cooling unit that fails due to a leak. Those three years have passed. If you didn't get a notice your fridge doesn't meet the criteria. I fail to see a problem with continuing travels up and down hills with my fridge running.

This, after 25 years and 8 diff RV's, I've never had a problem. Maybe I will in the future. Who knows, but I have other issues to worry about than that. I would spend more time thinking about my tires than I would the fridge.

 

[Dieselnerd]

This, after 25 years and 8 diff RV's, I've never had a problem. Maybe I will in the future. Who knows, but I have other issues to worry about than that. I would spend more time thinking about my tires than I would the fridge.

Ditto to what he said. I had the recall done on my fifth wheel years back. Never had a problem before or after. Same with many RV's I've owned in the past 47 years.

 

[GAmes]

The other take away is that if there was a safety issue a simple extended warranty wouldn't be enough. In about 2002 there was a recall on the frig that was installed in the 5er we had then, and IIRC it was labeled urgent.

 

[RustyJC]

Well, just to put things in perspective, I had a Norcold cooling unit fail in May 2000 (2000 Jayco Designer XL 3610RLST purchased in February 2000) and a Dometic cooling unit fail in early 2005 (2004 DRV Mobile Suites 36RE3 purchased in August 2004). I'm glad some of you have never had a problem with an absorption RV fridge. Wish I could say the same.....

I'll stick to my residential fridge and 1500 watt PSW inverter, thanks.

Rusty

 

[GAmes]

To further the putting things in perspective, 2000 Jayco Designer XL 3610RLST , 2004 DRV Mobile Suites 36RE3 and 2014.5 DRV Mobile Suites 38RSSA all have 50 amp service and none of them have seen an unpaved road. Correct?

 

[Vette Racer]

Well, guess we have been lucky but a 1980's motorhome with a Norcold, a 2003 fifth wheel with a Dometic, and now a 2011 fifth wheel with a 10 cubic FT Norcold no problems yet, knock on wood!

 

[AussieRam]

A very interesting discussion. In Australia we generally have two different fridges, 12 volt or a 3 way fridge which runs either propane gas, 12 volt or 240 volt. First rule is always turn off your gas at the bottle and your 12 volt power (except for the fridge circuit) before heading out on the road. I run with a 210 litre fridge/freezer running off 12 volts only in my van. Enough space to keep the beers cold ! Generally the 3 way fridges have an interlock that turns the fridge off if the level isn't right.

 

[AussieRam]

A very interesting discussion. In Australia we generally have two different fridges, 12 volt or a 3 way fridge which runs either propane gas, 12 volt or 240 volt. First rule is always turn off your gas at the bottle and your 12 volt power (except for the fridge circuit) before heading out on the road. I run with a 210 litre fridge/freezer running off 12 volts only in my van. Enough space to keep the beers cold !

 

[GAmes]

It really doesn't matter what is heating the mixture, gas or DC electric. If the frig is way off level for too long a period the result is the same.