Here I am

First Cummins at last!

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First CTD 04.5 2500

Engine light on 28870 miles

What ever you do, your right foot has no influence on EGT, the ECM controls them entirely to keep the emissions stuff happy.
You'll see high EGTs just cruise down the main road, even ideling you'll see 500+.
Idle down is meant if you really worked it hard with a trailer on, up the mountain.
But sure you can install a probe and monitor it, it just doesn't make sense as there is no benefit from it on a new Truck.
Post Turbo is monitored already, an Edge CTS shows this.

Yeah, I do know about the post-turbo monitoring capability on the CTS - sounds interesting, and I'm familiar with what kinds of EGT ranges one might see from previous older diesels I've owned. Like I said, I have been adjusting to a mental shift - from ALWAYS monitoring pre-turbo EGTs as a matter of course to the newer technology. Only had the truck for a couple of weeks now... I mentioned earlier, the most probable thing is that I wind up with a CTS and enjoy all of the info the OBD-II bus can deliver, maybe adding a few other toys for ease of fluid changes and a bit of cooling like aftermarket diff covers, etc. It really is just the enginerd in me that automatically wants inlet numbers on a turbine - it's sort of reflexive. I don't anticipate heavily modifying this truck - it already delivers plenty of power for my purposes, and I guess I'll find out if I feel like I need more cooling or some protection for the underside or intercooler, etc as I get out and use it. I'm less prone to bash around on really rough trails now than I used to be. Maybe some protection from thrown gravel for the front end stuff if we decide to do the AlCan. Already have some stout rock sliders on order, but those are just as much for step and jacking convenience in the boonies as rocker protection for me at age 64! ;-)

First actual mod I'll be doing is routing the charge cabling for my National Luna portable Power Pack from my half ton to the engine compartment, installing the Bed Rug, and mounting the slide for my ARB fridge/freezer. Shell ordered but will be a few weeks.
 
Yes. (Edit: Old habits die hard, I suppose. I figure a bit of thermal management must still be a good idea since the owners manual still recommends idling down after working the Cummins - naturally as an ex-rocket engine turbomachinery guy I crave temperature data, especially at the turbine inlet...)

Did i mention that i think you had a pretty cool Job?
A rocket Engineer.
I think you are the first with this profession on the TDR.
Now i can't do my old joke anymore - its a Cummins - it's not rocket science.:oops::D
 
I was on the manufacturing side of the house, so more rocket builder than rocket scientist, but it was cool - on a bad day, you walked out onto the shop floor, and reminded your self that we weren't making toasters or even transmissions, we were making rocket engines. And that you needed to pay attention to details, because brave people, some of whom you'd met, rode some of those rockets. But in truth I enjoy doing my astronomy education gig today just as much - maybe more, since I don't manage any people, and that often used to be a pain because of personalities.

Seriously, though, I find the sophistication of my new truck just as amazing as anybody here, I'm sure. Fingers crossed on the long term reliability of all of the peripheral systems surrounding the basic mechanical simplicity of that big inline six... I have a lot of faith in Cummins, or I wouldn't have made the purchase, but in the words of a Sinbad the Sailor movie I recall from my childhood, "Trust in Allah - but tie up your camel". ;-) I'll try to educate myself as much as I can here, and appreciate all of the experience of the people on these forums.
 
By way of update - ordered our Snug Top Rebel shell, a cab-high design, yesterday. Should be here in a couple of weeks, then I'll install the Bedrug and run the cabling for the National Luna portable power pack box, which houses a 100 AH deep cycle AGM with charging controlled by the engine alternator via the delay and controller circuitry of the power pack. Then time to mount the fridge slide and the ARB fridge/freezer that battery runs, and I'll have moved the setup over from my Ecodiesel bed and I can detail the 2016 1500 and put her up for sale - she's been a good truck but when we went up in trailer size it was time to move to a 2500. As soon as I pick up a lower drop shank for the equalizer hitch, I can finally get towing with the new truck - can't wait! Will post first towing impressions to probably close out my comments in this thread.
 
Folks, I do NOT want to ignite a discussion about engine oil preferences, but seeing as I am prepping for a first towing trip with just a bit over 1000 miles on my new baby, can somebody tell me what the factory oil fill on my 6.7 is likely to be? Seems to me it would should be the 5W-40 synthetic meeting CK-4 and the various FCA and/or Cummins specs the owner's manual recommends for operation at the widest possible temperature range, just in case the truck is operated under sub-zero conditions before the first oil change - but does anyone actually KNOW what viscosity the factory oil fill is? I just prefer to add the same weight as what's in the crankcase if possible if I need to top off... I have poked around but no joy on solid data, though I've seen my assumption repeated on a few threads but without anyone claiming to have gotten the information from what sounded like an authoritative source. Anybody have something solid?
 
Yes, 5w-40.

I’d do an early oil change if it were my truck. I did mine at 4200, but I bought it used.

I prefer the first change around 500, then 5000.
 
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Yes, 5w-40.

I’d do an early oil change if it were my truck. I did mine at 4200, but I bought it used.

I prefer the first change around 500, then 5000.
Yes, 5w-40.

I’d do an early oil change if it were my truck. I did mine at 4200, but I bought it used.

I prefer the first change around 500, then 5000.

AH64ID - Assume you are looking to clear any manufacturing debris out of the system early with that first change?
 
View attachment 118625
Correct. Not nearly as needed with modern machining and assembly practices, but oil is cheap.
Got the oil changed with just a bit over 1000 miles on her - no nasties noted in catch screen or on drain plug. New fill of Rotella T6 5W-40 and new Fleetguard filter. First shakedown towing trip, a short jaunt up to the central California coast, next week. Got the shell, a Snug Top Rebel with Solid sides, installed this afternoon. Waiting on the White Knuckle Offroad Rock Sliders - about another 3 weeks for those...
View attachment 118625
 
First Tow Trip: Just a run up the coast from Valencia CA, to San Simeon, near the south end of the Big Sur Country along the coast, a little over 200 miles one way. Went out of our way to pull the I-5 Grapevine grade up and over into the southern Central Valley just to feel how she ran with a bit of weight behind her on grades. Trailer about 6800 lbs. Obviously, not a challenging pull for the Cummins, but I bought this truck to make my towing effortless - and it was! This will come as no surprise to anyone, but it was so much FUN to have no issues with fluid temperatures or available power on the way up, and to have the luxury of a well-sorted auto exhaust brake combined with what felt like equally well-sorted tow/haul shift mapping on the 68RFE. I played with it, but there was no place where I needed the full on setting on the exhaust brake.

This is after 3 years of towing the same trailer on the same (and steeper, higher, hotter) grades with my 2016 1500 3.0 diesel and having to constantly watch temps, then carefully manage energy on the downgrades without an exhaust brake - the 8 speed ZF on the 2016 is a VERY nicely sorted transmission, with a good tow/haul mode, but of course you just don't get much braking effect downshifting a diesel and they still haven't gotten around to adding an exhaust brake to them - you have to be careful not to overspeed on downhill sections towing. What a contrast, and relief. I anticipated it would be like this, but really a joy to get out and DO it. Once we recover from our recent outlays (truck, shell, rock sliders ordered) I'll buy a Mag-Hytec for the rear and change out the diff oil. Loving things early on, with a little over 1700 miles on the clock!
 
I would look at installing a Mag-Hytec Deep transmission oil pan on the 68RFE. The pan will hold an additional 3QRT's of oil and has a magnetic drain plug which will capture the metal fillings in the transmission oil and provide for easy of servicing. I have had one on my truck since 2009 this along with the Diff covers and a few other improvements was one of the best investments I have made to the truck.

When towing my 5er I have never seen transmission oil temps over 195F in the pan regardless of DEG. of % road rise. I have recorded at my rear diff temps around 145F with the Mag-Hytec AL Diff cover when towing with an IFR gun.

I would look at Geno's garage for what you need, since they are the site sponsor for TDR. I try and purchase most of my component purchases from Geno's great service and a very knowledgeable staff.
 
I did lots of mods to my 05 that I won’t be repeating on my 18, and one of them is a MH diff cover. I think they are a great product, but not necessarily a benefit for many users.

I noticed after putting mine on that in winter it would take 30+ miles for the diff to warm up and that came with a noticeable increase in engine load. I think it dealt more with the 8 qts instead of the fins. That 8qts also made for expensive changes. If I towed at or above GCW for more than 50% of my miles I’d be more inclined to look at one again.

If I were to do anything on my 18 it would be the OEM finned cover. I think it offers the best of everything for most users.
 
I would look at installing a Mag-Hytec Deep transmission oil pan on the 68RFE. The pan will hold an additional 3QRT's of oil and has a magnetic drain plug which will capture the metal fillings in the transmission oil and provide for easy of servicing. I have had one on my truck since 2009 this along with the Diff covers and a few other improvements was one of the best investments I have made to the truck.

When towing my 5er I have never seen transmission oil temps over 195F in the pan regardless of DEG. of % road rise. I have recorded at my rear diff temps around 145F with the Mag-Hytec AL Diff cover when towing with an IFR gun.

I would look at Geno's garage for what you need, since they are the site sponsor for TDR. I try and purchase most of my component purchases from Geno's great service and a very knowledgeable staff.

Jim W, I concur, been dealing with Geno's for years on previous trucks. Always happy with them. Good pricing, good people, quick delivery, and of course, the TDR connection. I hear you on the trans pan - going forward, on first fluid change I will likely install aftermarket pans/covers, more for the convenience of drain/fill than for the capacity increase, though I do note the testing results seen in a recent TDR register issue, seeming to show a thermal benefit on the diff covers if you're under hot conditions - which is often the case for me, living in southern California. On this trip I never saw more than 169 in the trans fluid readout - I assume that is either the pan or the return from the cooler, though I really don't know... there's something I need to research before my first summer trips!
 
I did lots of mods to my 05 that I won’t be repeating on my 18, and one of them is a MH diff cover. I think they are a great product, but not necessarily a benefit for many users.

I noticed after putting mine on that in winter it would take 30+ miles for the diff to warm up and that came with a noticeable increase in engine load. I think it dealt more with the 8 qts instead of the fins. That 8qts also made for expensive changes. If I towed at or above GCW for more than 50% of my miles I’d be more inclined to look at one again.

If I were to do anything on my 18 it would be the OEM finned cover. I think it offers the best of everything for most users.

AH64ID, does the OEM finned piece from the 3500s have a drain plug? I would probably also consider the PML covers - had one of those on my 02 V10 beast's Dana 70 and had no complaints, though I always liked the O-ring setup and the pretty finish on the M-H pieces, they ARE pricey, and I am primarily considering aftermarket bits to make changes more convenient. I don't normally have to deal with the kind of winter conditions you experience in your gorgeous state, so my gear oil will probably seldom get as cold as you experience for several months of the year - even if I do the AlCan it's going to be a pretty quick trip in the warmest of times for those latitudes. Where I live, children sometimes get to middle school never having seen snow actually fall - "winter" is something they drive to the mountains to visit when they see snow magically appear on those peaks overnight after a storm.

One thing about the PML is that is provides slightly less additional capacity, just an extra pint over stock according to the blurb at Geno's site, so it would give the drain convenience and small heat transfer benefit of a finned aluminum piece without a huge increase in lube oil volume - I've always questioned the benefit of lube volume for its own sake - once you're at equilibrium, the added volume should not matter much as long as the stock amount was sufficient to start with, and the oil bath level is properly maintained during operation. As you point out, I am NOT towing at all heavy. Still riding down the personal learning curve and appreciate all of the advice from you guys with more Cummins experience!
 
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