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First Drive - 2006 auto with mopar Exhaust Brake

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Dual Exaust???

256 miles, oil leak, check engine light on....

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All I can say is WOW!!!



From 80mph (already in lock) - brake comes on, slowing fast, then the RPM gets to about 1100 - trans unlocks, downshifts to 3rd, locks back up... Slowing,slowing, AT 1100 RPM -- AGAIN trans unlocks, then another downshift to second, brake comes on... . by this time I'm like doing only 10-20 mph



Anyway, I was absolutely AMAZED at how good it worked, A++ to mopar



AND the 2006 models also have a tow/haul mode, AND a O/D off

Cool huh?
 
tomeygun said:
All I can say is WOW!!!



From 80mph (already in lock) - brake comes on, slowing fast, then the RPM gets to about 1100 - trans unlocks, downshifts to 3rd, locks back up... Slowing,slowing, AT 1100 RPM -- AGAIN trans unlocks, then another downshift to second, brake comes on... . by this time I'm like doing only 10-20 mph



Anyway, I was absolutely AMAZED at how good it worked, A++ to mopar



AND the 2006 models also have a tow/haul mode, AND a O/D off

Cool huh?



Awww, crud! I was hoping to resist the temptation to buy a new truck, but now I may not be able to...
 
WOW is right. Would have liked to have had it in the Colorado mountains w/10K 5th wheel this summer. NOW, the Q is: Can the brake be fitted on any previous model? And maybe it is still to early to ask that Q.
 
It would be nice if it shifted down at 1700 rpm instead of 1100 where the brake is well below it's peak efficiency.



-Scott
 
SRadke said:
It would be nice if it shifted down at 1700 rpm instead of 1100 where the brake is well below it's peak efficiency.



-Scott



I think Thompson Sub Machine gun is saying that it kicks in at whatever RPM you happen to be at and holds that gear with the Jake on until 1100 rpm, then grabs another lower gear and repeats. If it disengaged at 1700 and grabbed another gear, you would be screaming that next lower gear right?? That kind of quick, harsh grabbing of gears would certainly add to wear and tear on the transmission I would think.
 
That's the idea. You get max breaking power at about 2800 rpm. As your rpm drops off so does your retarding power, it's very linear. Now the new PRXB from Pac is a diffrent story and perhaps Jacobs has come up with a similar design to hold the braking power through the rpm range but if not it may as well shift down sooner to keep the rpm in the higher end of the spectrum.



-Scott
 
I can understand your max efficient retarding power up high, but I think that would scare me to scream an "unfueled" engine like that. Maybe I'm out of perspective, but to me, that would be like crusing along and throwing the Dakota into 3rd gear at 80mph and revving her up to 4800rpm or so to provide engine braking, couldn't imagine what that would do to the clutch and syncros :confused: It is much different with a CTD and the auto I'm sure, but it would still worry me a little bit.
 
LDobie said:
I can understand your max efficient retarding power up high, but I think that would scare me to scream an "unfueled" engine like that. Maybe I'm out of perspective, but to me, that would be like crusing along and throwing the Dakota into 3rd gear at 80mph and revving her up to 4800rpm or so to provide engine braking, couldn't imagine what that would do to the clutch and syncros :confused: It is much different with a CTD and the auto I'm sure, but it would still worry me a little bit.



I think the dirtymax transmission brake uses 4500rpm as the limit after you tap the brake on a downhill... Normal redline on that engine is well below that.
 
You won't hurt a third gen under 3000 rpm. If you want to make an exhaust brake work, keep it above 2200. I don't see them ever making an automatic transmission that drives and shifts like it should as well as functioning properly to utilize an exhaust brake so for now, I'll stick with my handshaker. It's always in the gear I want.



-Scott
 
RMalone said:
Tomeygun will it downshift 4,3,2 in tc lockup without the exhaust brake activated?



With no EXH brake active, It will just kick into top gear when you let off, For good rolling resistence IMO



And I was surprised when I let it kick on at a low speed - 2nd gear locked up



It was a little jerky IMO, but this was all unloaded - Loaded would be WAY more impressive
 
What's the rpm range on the 06's? I have an o1 but there is no way going down a hill that I let RPM's get over 2300. I prefer turning it on by 2200 and get great breaking down to 1500 then it slopes off. I realize were talking about 2 different animals... I just couldnt imagine 2800rpm.
 
Redline on the early third gens is 3500 rpm. Unless they've changes something I suspect it is the same for 06.
 
LDobie said:
I can understand your max efficient retarding power up high, but I think that would scare me to scream an "unfueled" engine like that. Maybe I'm out of perspective, but to me, that would be like crusing along and throwing the Dakota into 3rd gear at 80mph and revving her up to 4800rpm or so to provide engine braking, couldn't imagine what that would do to the clutch and syncros :confused: It is much different with a CTD and the auto I'm sure, but it would still worry me a little bit.



I've run REAL Jake engine brakes on all my big rigs. My current Pete with a 2100 rpm limit Cat 3406B I'll keep the R's between 1800 and 2100 on a big hill. With a jake you pick the speed you want to run down a hill then choose the gear and engine rpm for enough braking power. The higher the rpm the more braking power it will have. Just don't go over the max rpm of the engine.
 
F-15I Ra'am said:
Tomey, can you order it with one from the factory?



Kinda



You order with the order and it comes to the dealership with the VIN number on it and they put it on in the dealership...
 
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