First oil change quality ?

[AnOldBiker]

Delo is a good and common oil for many with the Cummins. Since I've owned my truck from new, I've tried many different types for at least three oil changes minimum and sent in oil samples every time for my personal documentation and tracking. I found that I get better readings from a full sync oil and found the four oils that gave me the best results. Now I'm trying extended length oil changes and using the full sync oils from my test period.

I have a friend that runs rigs and runs up mileage like no other I know. He just traded in his old rig (1.6 million on the clock) for a new one and if it works out right, when the next one is due, he'll be retiring. He test his oil changes like I said above and changes brands over time during this period. But with the mileage he does per year, he can do many oil changes in a short period of time. With 250k on the rig now, he found he gets the best readings from Rotella T6, so he will be staying with that until he gets rid of the truck. The prior truck, he found he did better with a different brand.

Seems with what designed demands with the truck, the way the owner drives and makes demands from it, and the complex material and nature of engines, the environment, changing fuels and such, one engine can run better with one brand oil and the same brand truck/engine can run better with another oil. So it seems there's more to it than just price, preferred company product, referred recommendation and availability. We just have to be careful was to what we select, because we are the ones who will pay the cost if selecting wrong, no one else will.

 

[AlFischer]

Which oil are you using and how long is the extended change? What is your opinion of the '6 months change' that is stated for the Cummins?

 

[AnOldBiker]

This run, I'm at 25k right now and still going. So extended for me is up too and including "whenever the lab results says to change the oil". You learn to watch them like a hawk.
I'm using Mobil1 extended 5w-40, Donaldson full flow filter (changed every 5K) with the Amsoil eabp100 oil by-pass filter.
Three of my top brands were so close with the lab reports over the years, Rotella, Mobil and Valvoline.
They had good lab reports for the runs in my truck, I actually had to flip a coin to see which would run first.
So now I watch and wait for the reports. I'm in it for the long run, whatever that might be.

I have a relative that has obtained 128k on one oil run before he had to change. He's trying for a longer run this time, if possible. (His oil is Rotella T6, Donaldson full flow and Amsoil by-pass).

( I might have mentioned this before, but I retired from an oil refinery and very much believe in lab results for my oil. We lived by them for our equipment services runs. Our very small turbines were over $125k+, not counting the transfer case, liquid end centrifugal pump, speed governor and associated equipment and piping. Quality lab results are essential to quality maintenance. So yes, I live by the results. My truck isn't $125k+ out of my pocket like at the refinery, but to me, to replace it, to me, it's much much more. )

 

[AlFischer]

Very interesting. The Donaldson sounds great. Problem is there is no room for it in 2014 6.7! Would have to mount it outside on the fender!

 

[AnOldBiker]

I'm sorry, did you mean the Amsoil by pass ?

 

[AlFischer]

I was referring to the Donaldson. Believe I is mounted remotely. The 2014 truck has no where in the engine compartment fo another filter.

 

[AnOldBiker]

Al, if you want to install an oil by pass on a 6.7, here's what my friends co-worker said he did, with a twist.

He seen this on the net ...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y0QjKW-FKrY

He used rubber hoses so their isn't any metal clad hoses to make any contact with any under hood electrical connections for safety.
When changing the filter, he slightly loosens the filter enough to easily remove when time to change, then removes the filter base so he can put a small catch pan under it.
Then he can remove and replaces the filter with the mess contained.
He re-bolts the filter base to the bracket and runs the engine to fill the filter with oil, and then checks the oil level for to see how much to cap it off.

He didn't want to drill into his frame or have hoses hanging everywhere by putting it on the fenders inner wells.
Easy to get to, not that a much extra work, easier to catch old oil and change filter, and as he said, easy on the eyes.

I never paid attention before, but there's 'way' less room in the 6.7 engine compartment then my old 5.9.

 

[ddown]

Most oils are Paraffinic based

Myths:

- Paraffinic oils cause engine sludge.
- Oils from paraffin-based crude are loaded with wax and create engine sludge.
- Paraffin base stocks cause sludge.
- Some brands of motor oil cause sludge, varnish and/or engine deposits.
- "Paraffinic" motor oils cause wax-like deposits on the underside of the oil fill cap.

Fact:

There are two basic types of crude oil, naphthenic and paraffinic. Most conventional engine lubricating oils today are made from paraffinic crude oil. Paraffinic crude oil is recognized for its ability to resist thinning and thickening with temperature, as well as its lubricating properties and oxidation resistance (sludge forming tendencies). In the refining process, the paraffinic crude oil is broken down into many different products. One of the products is wax, and others are gasoline, kerosene, lubricating oils, asphalt, etc. Virtually every oil marketer uses paraffinic base stocks in blending their engine oil products.

Many people believe the term paraffinic to be synonymous with wax. Some have the misconception that paraffinic oils will coat the engine with a wax film that can result in engine deposits. This is not true. The confusion exists because paraffinic molecules can form wax crystals at low temperatures. In lubricating oils, this wax is removed in a refining process called dewaxing. Wax is a premium product obtained from crude oil, and in order to insure that we produce the highest quality base stocks available, Pennzoil removes the maximum amount of wax possible during the refining process. The end result is a motor oil product formulated with premium lubricating base oil.

 

[AlFischer]

Most oils are Paraffinic based

Myths:

- Paraffinic oils cause engine sludge.
- Oils from paraffin-based crude are loaded with wax and create engine sludge.
- Paraffin base stocks cause sludge.
- Some brands of motor oil cause sludge, varnish and/or engine deposits.
- "Paraffinic" motor oils cause wax-like deposits on the underside of the oil fill cap.

Fact:

There are two basic types of crude oil, naphthenic and paraffinic. Most conventional engine lubricating oils today are made from paraffinic crude oil. Paraffinic crude oil is recognized for its ability to resist thinning and thickening with temperature, as well as its lubricating properties and oxidation resistance (sludge forming tendencies). In the refining process, the paraffinic crude oil is broken down into many different products. One of the products is wax, and others are gasoline, kerosene, lubricating oils, asphalt, etc. Virtually every oil marketer uses paraffinic base stocks in blending their engine oil products.

Many people believe the term paraffinic to be synonymous with wax. Some have the misconception that paraffinic oils will coat the engine with a wax film that can result in engine deposits. This is not true. The confusion exists because paraffinic molecules can form wax crystals at low temperatures. In lubricating oils, this wax is removed in a refining process called dewaxing. Wax is a premium product obtained from crude oil, and in order to insure that we produce the highest quality base stocks available, Pennzoil removes the maximum amount of wax possible during the refining process. The end result is a motor oil product formulated with premium lubricating base oil.

VERY interesting. Looks like you know more about oil than most. I still stand irm that I will be putting Delo 400 LE in my engine. My experience with the Pennzoil of old really soured me on Pennzoil.
I firmley believe that FCA chose to use nothing but Pennzoil was a decision of an MBA, NOT an engineer. Corporations are ren by MBAs nd Marketing. NOY Engineers and Technicians

 

[AlFischer]

Al, if you want to install an oil by pass on a 6.7, here's what my friends co-worker said he did, with a twist.

He seen this on the net ...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y0QjKW-FKrY

He used rubber hoses so their isn't any metal clad hoses to make any contact with any under hood electrical connections for safety.
When changing the filter, he slightly loosens the filter enough to easily remove when time to change, then removes the filter base so he can put a small catch pan under it.
Then he can remove and replaces the filter with the mess contained.
He re-bolts the filter base to the bracket and runs the engine to fill the filter with oil, and then checks the oil level for to see how much to cap it off.

He didn't want to drill into his frame or have hoses hanging everywhere by putting it on the fenders inner wells.
Easy to get to, not that a much extra work, easier to catch old oil and change filter, and as he said, easy on the eyes.

I never paid attention before, but there's 'way' less room in the 6.7 engine compartment then my old 5.9.

Yes, space is really lacking under the hood. I wasn't thinking of a bypass filter. I was thinking of relocation the regular filter, It's a real bear to change!

 

[ddown]

I put Delo 400 in my Duramax always worked and gave great reports back. I think all the top shelf oils are greatSynthetic or Conventional I do like the ADD pack that Delo uses but can't prove it makes any difference

 

[AlFischer]

Many years ago I worked for IBM on punch card machines. One machine had what was called a Geneva mechanism. It allowed a card to be moved quickly and stopped to allow punching. There was a NEED to keep an eye on the oils level and every field tech had his own theory of which oil to use, because rebuilding it was a mess. Engineering did a study and stated that the type or weight of the oil used mad no difference. Just DON"T LET IT RUN DRY! (circa 1970)