First Oil Change

[MrFixit]

My new truck is at about the 3000 mile mark. Going to take a 1500 mile trip next month(non-towing). Should I change oil before I go or when I get back. I believe the manual says 7500 miles but I usually change at 3000. Don't know if break-in oil needs to be in for 7500 miles or not.



Thanks guys.

 

[Big White Beast]

Change it.....

Cheap protection for the expensive option.



Search threads for oil change. The first one is a b!tch. The filter won't want to come off. Strap wrenches work well. Had to chisel mine off. After that it's a piece of cake. The baggie trick works well to avoid a mess. And taking the air inlet hose off makes for more room to work.



Good luck.



Garrett

 

[chuck3]

Change It.

I changed mine every 3 k. the first year, then went to 4 k. there after.

 

[JJMiller]

Just watch out for that positive connector on the alternator when you're working that strap wrench back there.....





-J

 

[Double 6]

Change oil before your trip, that way you will get rid of any metal particles from the break-in oil. Use Chevron DELO or Shell Rotella, both are good oils, Walmart has best price and Fleetguard oil filters from Geno's and you won't be sorry.

 

[DBuchheit]

Originally posted by Double 6

Change oil before your trip, that way you will get rid of any metal particles from the break-in oil. Use Chevron DELO or Shell Rotella, both are good oils, Walmart has best price and Fleetguard oil filters from Geno's and you won't be sorry.

I broke 2 band style wrenches trying to get the first filter off. I had to resort to a strap wrench, the type driven by a ratchet. I highly recommend that you locate one.



As far as oil and filter, Flletguard from Geno's and Rotella from Walmart, every 3K miles.

 

[redneckdr]

oil change

i agree change it now. i'm at 7k miles and have changed the oil twice. using "Rosmella T" and all good so far. i didn't have as much trouble as the others with the filter the first time--maybe you'll be lucky. use the Fleetguard Stratapore filter. btw, don't be surprised by the smell after you change the oil. you'll get the smell of the oil from the "blowby bottle" for several hundred miles, reportedly worse with "Rosmella T". i removed the bottle and ran a length of heater hose back to the transmission area and added a breather filter. don't get the smell in the cab anymore, but notice it when i get out of the truck. Rotella T available at the local Sam's by the case, good price. been running it in the "C" for several years now, without problems. oops, too long... ... .

 

[Steve M]

I just changed mine at 5,000. It didn't look bad at all and I might go ahead and stay with that schedule. The 12v Ram in the TDR rag with over one million miles on it is on a 5k mile oil change schedule using Shell Rotella. And it was used for towing heavy trailers. I can't argue with that!

Herb, I like your idea of running the crankcase vent hose back to the transmission area. Mine makes a mess on the front of the motor. I look like the cat went ballistic on my arms from reaching in around the fan to clean it up. There wasn't but a drop or two in the bottle and a film of dirty oil everywhere else.

One more thought... Like in my previous two 12v Rams, I added the nominal 10qts of oil and the dipstick read on the low side of safe. So I added another qt and it came up to half way into the safe zone. So I added the rest to make an even 3 gallons and it's right at the top of the safe zone but not over. Anyone else go with the full three gallons? I've heard of it on the Cummins list and I never had any trouble in my 12v engines with foaming from the cranks slapping it. As for saving a couple of qts of oil... I'd rather save it in the motor than on a shelf in the utility room. Any thoughts on this?

 

[redneckdr]

oil fill

steve:

this has been discussed several times before, but i can't remember the threads. the capacity of the oil system on the cummins is stable--oil pan, filter, etc. the best thing to do is put in the prescribed amount --11 quarts with the filter, i believe. then let it sit for some time, even over nite, and check the oil level on the dipstick. wherever it is on your stick, is full--you might want to mark it. the stick is not as accurate as adding the proper amount of oil and then let it sit over nite, and note where "full" is on your stick. another nice trick is to turn the stick upside down when you check the oil. that will put the marks on the inside of the curve and the oil level will be easier to see accurately. just turn the stick 180 degrees so that the words engine oil are upside down. more accurate reading... oops, too long again. i've always been able to make a short story long... ... ...

herb

 

[redneckdr]

breather line

one other thing--the breather line. be sure it soesn't have any low spots in it if you do run it back a ways. condensation in the hose could freeze in cold weather in a low spot and pressurize the system--not good, as some thing has to blow in that instance. 5/8 in heater hose works great. i went to the parts store, and just bought a crankcase breather filter that fit in the end of the heater hose, and wire tied it to the transfer case crossmember. ran a short piece of hose beyond the filter, to prevent water from entering the filter retrograde, in the rain. also directs the discharge where you want it... ... ... . now i'm done.