First post, ??? about 91.5 CTD.

[Deere Jon]

Men, I have been lurking around this site for a couple of years, have just purchased my

subscription. A bit of info about me, I work for John Deere Farm equipment company, as

a service tech, and farm part time in NEMO. I have owned my 91. 5 250 4x4 for 3 years

and have over 292,500 miles on it.



My questions are:



What is normal stock boost pressure, I am running 5-10 psi under good load at wide open

throttle.



Every now and then my pickup does not want to shut off. I cycle the key switch a time or

two and it will dye. I have never had to use the fuel shut off lever on the pump yet.



How far can you screw down the aneroid? I have the screw just a little below flush with

the jam nut removed.



My front axle is starting to look like a ford with the 2 piece axle. the wheels are towing

out at the bottom bad. Everything feels tight while jacked up, or is it just an elusion with

the rounded shape of the body?



Sorry about the book. Jon

 

[Greenleaf]

Big Buckeye Welcome!!



I love the user name



Green Green Green

Some think I bleed Green



15/18 psi I think is the stock reading (it's been awhile)



Remove the shut-down solenoid and take a good look at the end of it. If you've been doing yer home work (LIKE YOU SHOULD!!!) you'll have read about where this valve/solenoid is, the part you'll cut off to gain access to it and what you'll need to look for when you pull it out.



You can turn the screw down just like you have it but it's effect is very minimal. Some may say it is useless to adjust this to gain performance.



It only serves to limit the puff of smoke at the instant of acceleration.



Sorry. I have a smooth riding, near maint. free 2x4



Happy to have you on site



Oo.



Do your home work and ask away...

but please look out for East Coast Jay



Hah! Poet and I know it.



Greenleaf

 

[dpuckett]

Welcome Jon.

First, you shoudl see about 14-17 psi peak boost at WOT if you have a stock engine; more if it has been fiddled with, which none of us in HERE ever do. Mine came pre adjusted THe screw on top wont have more than a nominal effect on bottom end smoke, and not that much on many pumps. I'd bring it back up to the top, and put the jambnut back on it- I've had the screws blow out (dont ask). I figure, why give it fuel if there isnt enough air to burn it? Try taking the top of the AFC housing off, and turn your aneroid tapered pin to have the "deep" end facing forward; Dont just turn the diaphragm 90 deg or put the tick mark at whatever clock hour; they arent all assembled the same. Loosen the spring tension- turn the gear-looking wheel clockwise (they call it the "starwheel"; the idea wasnt mine) a feew rounds. It will make a goodly difference in pep; you should gain 4-6 psi peak, if it is currently set to stock- 50% between the deep and shallow sides. Good luck, and if you have any questions, feel free to ask.



BTW- what kind of exhaust temps (EGTs) are you seeing? And dont give me any in the exhaust pipe readings, they are nearly worthless. I need readings from the manifold to accurately diagnose this problem long distance



Daniel

 

[Deere Jon]

Dpuckett. I do not have a pyromeeter yet, I bet if you grab the manifold it would be hot thow. Ha ha.

 

[dpuckett]

A smart alec, huh?

You'll fit in just fine. The reason I asked (you should know if you've been lurking in the shadows for a while), is because low boost AND low EGT is fuel delivery; low boost, high EGT is more likely air restriction, etc, etc. You shuold see about 1000-1050 in the manifold, if all is right, with about 14-17psi. Deduct 5RWHP for lack of pyro.



-DP

 

[SRadke]

Re: A smart alec, huh?

Originally posted by dpuckett

Deduct 5RWHP for lack of pyro.

 

[sparks57]

Just a suggestion, make yourself a signature via your user control panel with the specs on your truck so we can help you better in the future.

 

[benefits]

I have a 91. 5 CTD and I just installed some isspro gauges, boost, tach, trans temp, pyro thermocouple. the pyro should be here in 2 weeks, damaged goods (my fault). Well i am only getting about 7 psi max boost like 2200 rpm. Is there something I need to do other than pressure test the intercooler? I have noticed that on the compressor wheel of the turbo that the blades arent smooth, like it has hit some things going in. I have not seen any compressor wheels like mine other than ones with broken fins. anyone got pics of theirs so I can see if what I have is normal.

 

[phillips5]

Dpuckett is right all you get with the anorid screw botomed out is lots of smoke when you nail it. By the way my screw is botomed out I love to watch the cole role out. If the pump is stock you probly won't get much smoke with out the full load screw in any. I had a truck that wouldn't shut off the shut off valve was full of metal. Never guess where that metal came from. I put a new shut off on then later the injectors were pluged with metal. I had to by a new inj. pump and inj. tips. $$$

 

[phillips5]

I have that new shutoff syloinoid you can have it. If you are near north west ohio

 

[bgilbert]

Phillips5 you have a PM.

[the wheels are towing out at the bottom bad. ] Sounds like an alignment is coming up, if you can buy the parts yourself and install then take it to the alignment shop, you will save big money big time.

Benefits- looks like that mouse that was taking up shop in your intake and air filter got sucked in!! I dont know much about this, but I imagine if the turbo spins freely, doesnt touch the sides and is within specs -little to no movement side to side, none in and out, you should be fine. . ? Another way to check for lost boost, is get a spray bottle with soapy water and spray on your intake, intercooler boots connections for air escaping, when you throttle it up. Try tightening them back up if you see bubbles. Then get that intercooler pressure tested. Bill

 

[Hunter4x4]

Hi Jon!



Since no one talked about your front axle I'll take a stab!!



With 290k on this truck more than likely that Dana 60 front axle has shot front end hardware - upper/lower kingpins, lower kingpin bearings, and upper kingpin tappered bushings. The lower kingpin/bearing assembly does the load carrying, and as it wears it will do what you called 'toe out', Actually the wheel is going negative camber, and the toe in/out is probalby not too bad.



The reason things feel tight is that the axle is so big and heavy it's hard to move those parts around - even when they're worn.



Are you experiencing any abnormal tire wear? That would give some additional clues as to what's wearing up there.



If you're half way experienced with a wrench you should be able to bust that front end down and replace all that stuff yourself. Get a hold of a shop manual before you do - they're a pretty good resource to have a round for these kind of jobs!



Good luck!

 

[Deere Jon]

That's it, Camber. I substituted toe out for camber because I could not think of the correct

word for my situation. You all will have to forgive me, I am lacking in the spelling and

grammar dept. I have tried to make a signature we will se if it works.



Phillips5- I am a bit far from you for that exchange, Thank you. I have relatives that live

in north east Ohio, Wayne township. My father and I took a trip out there last July. It was

my first, It was a nice change The average farm size there vs. hear is quite different. Agin

Thank you.



Thank you all for your posts, yes I need to do some work to my truck and I will pressure

test the intake air system at that time. Thank you Jon