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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission First post, steering comments, $70 lift pump, etc.

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Pump work

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My first post so forgive me. I have been reading posts for several years and thought I would start getting involved. I have made several attempts to improve the ride and steering and have found tire pressure, DSS, t-steering and tb fix to give good results. I did the t-steering and tb fix at the same time so I don't know which helped the most. My tb is a little loose again but my steering is still very good. I installed a PSC 3 turn box, 841M, nothing was wrong with my 4 turn just wanted more improvement. Blew the pitman seal with DSS in 20 miles and called PSC. They said the 84 casting is weaker and they were waiting for 64 castings. Got the new Delphi 64 casting in and before attaching DSS bearing I noticed some play in pitman shaft while turning wheel back and forth. I even noticed play when turning wheel without the engine running. I was wondering if this is OK and will be calling PSC. I would like to put the original box on and see the play for comparison but that sounds like work. After installing the DSS the play is gone. I am going on a trip and am now worried about blowing another seal. I guess along with a spare lift pump I will now be carrying a spare PS gear and a full blown tool set. Realize the play is exagerated since the DSS nut extends out quite a bit from the pitman shaft so it might be normal. No play in any of the boxes so I can't comment on wander improvement. 3 turn seems easier to drive though. I don't see how anyone can afford to drive one of these trucks if they aren't mechanically inclined. I only have 20k miles on truck and just put in a new $70 lift pump. Cummins in Minneapolis said there were over 400 available in Chicago warehouse. I bought two. Maybe I'll get two more if I decide to keep this truck. Wet carpet from door seal leak almost drove me over the edge. Poor design that I will fix with a piece of self stick weather seal to divert water away from internal pinch weld seal at back of rear door. Towed my 5000 lb. 5th wheel with my dad's 6. 0 2wd Chevy. Loved the tight steering and quiet ride. Missed the power, fuel economy and the exhaust brake on the Dodge. Nice towing machine! I guess I'll keep her until the next break down causes my break down. :-laf I'm seriously thinking of signing back up again with the AAA RV plan that I needed with my previous tow vehicle. I bought new so I wouldn't need it. Next fix will be adding grease fitting to front wheel bearings if I can find the post.
 
t-stearing ?

I don't participate that much on TDR but I sure have learned a lot from reading a the posts.

Just had all my ball joints replaced with a new stablizer. Thought it a good idea to go along with the new tires.

Now that the pulling to the right is gone, ( was getting worse ), I can really notice the slop in the stearing. I ordered a new stearing shaft from BORGESON. I understand the track bar could also be sloppy but one thing at a time. Hope the stearing box is OK. It doesn't leak.

I didn't understand what DSS, tb, or t-stearing meant. I figured tb is for track bar. I was thinking the LUKE'S LINK idea was a good way to go for the tracking bar problem. It is adjustible so that if it gets loose you can tighten it up. ( I have 171K on the truck so it's most likey loose ).

Hope you don't need to call AAA on your trip. I have the RV addition on my card, but so far haven't needed it. ;)
 
Making it to 171,000 miles with original steering is great. The lukes link is similar to Lindstadt fix that I did. DSS (Darin's Steering Stabilizer) is a brace that goes on the end of the pitman (sector) shaft coming out of the steering box. An excellent product. To check track bar have someone move steering wheel back and forth and see if the frame end is moving in and out. Axle bushing may also exhibit slop. Luke's link helps on frame end. Watch the steering box pitman shaft at the same time, it will move. The DSS will prevent a lot of that movement by putting a support bearing on the pitman shaft. It is around $200 from various suppliers. I wish you success in eliminating all slop, well, at least most of it. I plan on upgrading track bar some day. I want a Thuren direct bolt on but I don't know if it will fit the 2001. I may end up with 3rd gen fix. T-steering was used on 1998 and 1999, called heavy duty. It consists of a crossover bar from steering knuckle to knuckle and the drag link (?) goes from the pitman arm to the crossover bar. Our trucks came with an inverted Y set up that consists of a drag link from pitman arm to right knuckle and a connecting bar from the drag link to the left knuckle. Do a search and you will find a lot more info. It costs over $300 and the 3rd gens are still using the inverted Y last I looked.
 
Thanks, I did alot of reading last night and there seems to be a few differant ways to fix the track bar problem. I'll look at the tb while my wife operates the stearing so I can see if the tb needs replaced and if it does I'll try the Thuren, if it will fit. If not I go with to 3rd gen tb and the adapter brackets.

I didn't know I had a problem until I got the new tires, ball joints, and alignement. Before it just pulled to the right. Now it wanders. I read about changing the caster to reduce the wandering but I would like to get most of the slop out of the stearing first.

Thanks again.
 
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