First startup

[SAndreasen]

Any suggestions for the first start of a fresh rebuild? I oiled and used assembly lube on everything so hopefully by the time the fuel system is primed we should have oil pressure

 

[Timd32]

Couple threads on initial new build Oil Pressure Issues. Just some final checks and expectations, so good info from folks on these in general.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/oil-pressure-help.267960/


https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/new-engine-losing-oil-pressure.266861/

 

[Cummins12V98]

I would disable the fuel system and crank until you have oil pressure.

 

[AH64ID]

Is the cam new?

 

[SAndreasen]

Is the cam new?

Reground

 

[AH64ID]

Reground

It probably still has a break-in procedure so I'd run it to build oil pressure with the fuel system disabled and then follow the break-in.

 

[Hoopster]

There are some small block plugs (three I think) by the oil feed line for the vacuum/power steering pump, Allen head plugs, they are M12 x 1.5 (IIRC) you can get a M12 to Barbed fitting and a one/two gallon pump sprayer (Home Depot Garden) cut the spray wand and connect to the barbed fitting then pump in a couple gallons of oil, or until oil can be seen in the valvetrain with the valve cover removed.

This will back fill the oil pump and oil galleries for pre priming the engine.

 

[AH64ID]

There are some small block plugs (three I think) by the oil feed line for the vacuum/power steering pump, Allen head plugs, they are M12 x 1.5 (IIRC) you can get a M12 to Barbed fitting and a one/two gallon pump sprayer (Home Depot Garden) cut the spray wand and connect to the barbed fitting then pump in a couple gallons of oil, or until oil can be seen in the valvetrain with the valve cover removed.

This will back fill the oil pump and oil galleries for pre priming the engine.

Be sure to filter it first. Virgin oil is not as clean as one might think.

 

[Diesel Gunner]

Be sure to filter it first. Virgin oil is not as clean as one might think.

Roger that! Each and every time that any lubricant is transferred it picks up contamination. So, a tanker goes to the refinery and picks up a load of 15W40 let's say. It returns to the marketer's warehouse, and it is off loaded to 275-gallon tote tanks or pumped to a holding tank. That's two transfers. Then, it will be pumped into drums or pails. That is 3 times that it has picked up a small amount of contamination. Same if it is delivered to a customer's bulk tank (Which I have seen that had bottoms full of dirt from bad housekeeping practices like leaving the lid open and not having desiccant filter breathers). Then it gets pumped from the tank to any number of containers before it gets put into a machine or straight into a machine. By that time, especially in the construction industry, it has very high levels of contamination. Could be dirt, could be water, other lubricants, material from a grinding wheel that was being used near the tank while the lid was open or something that a disgruntled employee put into it. I have seen all of these.

So, the 1-gallon jug? You are correct, John. However, just might be the best in terms of cleanliness. There is now a big push from manufacturers, most especially in hydraulics and drive train fluids, to utilize ISO Clean lubricants. These are the same products that the refinery provides as finished products that have been filtered to meet specific ISO standards. They go a very long way in extending the life of hydraulic systems that have incredibly tight tolerances in things like servo valves to name just one.

But (you knew that was coming, right?) ISO Clean can, if not done properly, can strip the additive package from engine oils. The filter unit that the company that I worked for cost the company in excess of 100K and we did not recommend it for engine oils and in fact would not do it even if the customer wanted it. Which did not happen because it also adds cost to the lubricant. There are good engine oil filters. Most engine oil filters will filter out the gravel and birds. I use nothing but Fleetguard and have considered adding a bypass system. But I am about 207K into this engine now and have not had any issues. The tolerances in these older engines are wide enough that a 2-micron particle will pass right through and not do too much damage. Over the life of the engine, yes, 2-micron particles do cause wear.

Cleanliness is next to Godliness. Make sure to keep all of your transfer equipment (funnels, lube bottles, etc.) clean. Clean it just before use. The container is dirty! Wipe it off before you open it! Wipe the area around the fill port before you open it!

If you have access to REAL filtration equipment that is designed for engine oil, I will say use it. Most don't, and almost all will not pay to have it done. Lubricant failures in engines almost never happen. They are caused by abuse, shoddy maintenance, and failure of parts due to metallurgy or bad design mostly. There is much more that I hope will be added here from the guys that have the experience and knowledge for those who don't.

Drive it like you stole it!

 

[SAndreasen]

There are some small block plugs (three I think) by the oil feed line for the vacuum/power steering pump, Allen head plugs, they are M12 x 1.5 (IIRC) you can get a M12 to Barbed fitting and a one/two gallon pump sprayer (Home Depot Garden) cut the spray wand and connect to the barbed fitting then pump in a couple gallons of oil, or until oil can be seen in the valvetrain with the valve cover removed.

This will back fill the oil pump and oil galleries for pre priming the engine.

I like that idea enough I might try it not sure where to find the fitting though . I used assembly lube ant oil on everything wondering if cranking until it gets pressure is safe enough

 

[Cummins12V98]

"wondering if cranking until it gets pressure is safe enough"

That is exactly how I would do it. Sounds like your assembly was done right.

 

[Hoopster]

I got my fitting from eBay, like $6 or so. 99% positive it is M12x1.5 (Metric 12mm x 1.5mm thread pitch), otherwise finding one locally is going to be a challenge, maybe Grainger??

I filled the oil filter before I primed.

 

[Joe Mc]

I filled the oil filter before I primed.

Not related to engine build or OPs question, but...
"Every" time I've changed the oil on mine I fill the filter. In addition to filling the filter, I earned a "changing the oil" tip here shortly after acquisition (05/01); shop rag on chassis under filter, loosen filter, freezer bag around it, remove filter in bag = no mess and shorter time till oil psi hits bearings.

SAndreasen, sounds like you used every possible method to make certain no moving metal parts will be metal to metal upon initial fire-up, goodman!!! I'm thinking a "reground" cam would have an initial break-in just like a new one? On gas engines I always used varying the rpms 2,000-2,500 for 20 minutes. Guess a diesel would be 1,000-1,500?. Good luck with initial run and beyond. Please do post a video of initial start-up for us. Starting an engine for the first time is such an exciting, and stressful, time - almost like a child being born. LOL

 

[AH64ID]

I filled the oil filter before I primed.

Hopefully only thru the outside holes. Any oil poured in the center hole will remain unfiltered, and as mentioned above virgin oil is not clean and not something you want in your oil galleries.