First Time Auto Trans Owner: Need Advice

[Bernie]

Hi everyone. I was a member in 2006 when I had an 2006 Ram CTD with the G56 manual transmission. Long story short, got a new job with a company truck and I sold my 06.



Longer story, changed jobs again and needed a truck of my own again. I purchased a 2003 Ram 2500, 4x4, CTD, 95k miles, with an Auto transmission, off of eBay.



Truck is fine, but I have not owned an auto before. I put a lot of miles on a year, and I am looking for advice of PM to keep the transmission in one piece.

-About 30k miles a year unloaded (cargo only, no trailer)

-About 15k miles a year with about 10k # of race cars and trailer.



I am not exaggerating when I say I have no experience with an auto. I don't know anything about them, so any advice from those of you with high millage stock trucks and auto transmissions would be appreciated.



PS- Truck is currently stock. I don't think I will modify it, but I do miss some of the power that my 2006 HO had. Is it a pain to get the 2003 Auto to the 600 lb / 300 hp that my 2006 had?

 

[cerberusiam]

PS- Truck is currently stock. I don't think I will modify it, but I do miss some of the power that my 2006 HO had. Is it a pain to get the 2003 Auto to the 600 lb / 300 hp that my 2006 had?

Nope, Smarty, The Great Equalizer. :-laf





If you are going to tow like that, Smarty and a shift kit will make a world of difference. If you want a little better trans, a better TC will help immensely. The next step beyond that would be a turbo.

 

[p-Bar]

Throw in a valve body also, add a trans temp gauge

 

[Bernie]

Thanks, need more info

Thanks for the above advice, but I wasn't kidding when I said I KNOW NOTHING ABOUT AUTO TRANSMISSIONS. The is the first I have owned.



Some questions I have now are:

-What do you mean by a shift kit? How will that improve performance and durability?

-I assume when you suggest a TC you mean Torque Converter. Again, I'm an idiot about autos, what will than gain me in durability and performance?

-Same question with Valve Body. What is it and how will it help me?



Also, what kind of PM does an auto trans need? What is the realistic life of an auto? How much should I budget and at what millage does the average user see a failure?



Is there a definitive single source/guide on these transmissions that might lay out a good PM and upgrade path for long term reliability and performance?



I need to learn a lot about autos. Best place to start?

 

[JApol]

Some people call automatic transmissions Slush boxes. Well, the 47/48RE are the poster children.

An after market torque converter and valve body will allow for firmer shifts and better power to the wheels.

Howstuffworks "How Torque Converters Work"



Howstuffworks "How Automatic Transmissions Work"



Here is what I read when I got my first auto

 

[fox]

You have been given good advice.

The main issues with the Dodge auto are, line pressure is too low from the factory, and the torque converter is too loose.

A valve body corrects the pressure issue( and others too) and the aftermarket converters are tighter in fluid coupling. . But get the converter from a diesel knowledgeable shop.

I prefer these guys.

Diesel Transmission Technology - DTT Performance Diesel Transmission and Power Accessories

 

[cerberusiam]

Some questions I have now are:



-What do you mean by a shift kit? How will that improve performance and durability?



-I assume when you suggest a TC you mean Torque Converter. Again, I'm an idiot about autos, what will than gain me in durability and performance?



-Same question with Valve Body. What is it and how will it help me?



Also, what kind of PM does an auto trans need? What is the realistic life of an auto? How much should I budget and at what millage does the average user see a failure?

The shift kit will raise line pressures to the point you won't slip the direct clutches or the TC (torque converter) clutch. This can happen with stock power and even more so with a power adder. Towing is relatively hard on the clutches as is a lot of stop and go. The extra pressure just helps make sure the engagement is positive and you don't slip them all the time.



If you are not going for big power and loads a shift kit is more economical than a whole VB. It takes more to install a shift kit than a VB so depending on how much you want to do yourself or hire out may contribute to your decision.



The valve body is what controls all your shifting and pressures. It is the brain of the transmission. Once again, if you are not looking for big power its where you need to address most of the issues. The other area is the TC, the muscle of the trans. By upgrading it to a billet cover, better torque multiplication, and lower stall you will increase the amount of power to the rear wheels and augument the Cummins TQ in the lower rpm's. A billet cover TC will not flex and warp under heat, power, and pressure like the stocker will. This will help the lockup clutch maintain its viability.



Failures can happen at any time for a variety of reasons. With 95k and there are no obvious issues you can be relatively sure you have one with good hard parts. Unfortunately, if you don't know the history of the truck that mileage would make me want to pull at least the pump and 2 front drums to check for wear. Adding a TC and VB will be like putting lipstick on a pig if there are any issues in those pieces.



What is the build date and HP of your truck? Just wondering if you have the 48RE or 47RE unit.

 

[Ducman82]

and get a good extra deep trans pan!

 

[Bernie]

What is the build date and HP of your truck? Just wondering if you have the 48RE or 47RE unit.

It is a 2003 Ram CTD, 4x4, auto, with a build date of 1-03. To the best of my knowledge it is stock, so I would assume stock HP. I would like to get back to the 600 lb / 300 hp of my 06, so I should plan any trans work around that.

I don't know which trans it has. What is the difference?

 

[cerberusiam]

It is a 2003 Ram CTD, 4x4, auto, with a build date of 1-03. To the best of my knowledge it is stock, so I would assume stock HP. I would like to get back to the 600 lb / 300 hp of my 06, so I should plan any trans work around that.



I don't know which trans it has. What is the difference?

It will make a difference in shift kits and parts for it. The 48RE has quite a few updates and heavier parts in it so there are things you don't have to address. That build date is the switch over from the 47 to 48 and could be either. Is your truck an SO or HO?



Sticker on the valve cover should tell you horse power. SO = 250 Hp, HO = 305 Hp. If it is an HO it SHOULD be a 48RE.



A Smarty on on an SO makes it even with an HO stock, 305 HP. Smarty on #1 adds 30 HP so now you are a little better than a stock 06.

 

[Bernie]

Sticker on the valve cover should tell you horse power. SO = 250 Hp, HO = 305 Hp. If it is an HO it SHOULD be a 48RE.

Well, the fine print on the Cummins sticker on the valve cover says it is a 305 HP. Must be a HO.



How else can I check to make sure I have the better transmission? Is there another place that would be documented on the vehicle? Can I tell by looking at the trans itself?

 

[DPKetchum]

The 305 h. p. only got the 48RE.

 

[cerberusiam]

Well, the fine print on the Cummins sticker on the valve cover says it is a 305 HP. Must be a HO.



How else can I check to make sure I have the better transmission? Is there another place that would be documented on the vehicle? Can I tell by looking at the trans itself?

Externally its impossible to tell them apart. All the updates are internal.



There should be a tag or stamp somewhere on the trans with a part number that will allow a dealer to look it up for sure.



The HO's were ALL SUPPOSED to have a 48RE. I will take that under advisement then check carefully cuz weird stuff can ensue on an assembly line.

 

[DerekW]

You have been given good advice.

The main issues with the Dodge auto are, line pressure is too low from the factory, and the torque converter is too loose.

A valve body corrects the pressure issue( and others too) and the aftermarket converters are tighter in fluid coupling. . But get the converter from a diesel knowledgeable shop.

I prefer these guys.

Diesel Transmission Technology - DTT Performance Diesel Transmission and Power Accessories

heres a cheapy that require no mods. 1st shift it kinda like a manual. the longer you hold a gear the more line pressure when you shift to make clutches hold at time of shift. also let out of it when you shift. number 2 stay out of skinny pedal while towing and DONT tow in overdrive-turn it off. overdrive in these is a really P. O. C.



other than that if you want to spend money and make it really live consider a ats valvebody available at ATSDiesel.com you have a 48re in your truck. depending on how you like your shifts you could go with either a towing valvebody or VB (as they say on tdr) or a race vb. they are both good for towing and daily driving the race vb just shifts harder.



a deeper pan is nice ATS diesel has one but its expensive compared to whats out there. i found a cheapy from B&M at summit racing for $145 which adds 4 quarts to the capacity. they way that helps is it will give you added fluid capacity so that it in turn runs cooler which towing which also makes it live longer. not only that more fluid means more fluid to suspend clutch and bearing material which is nice.



you may also really want to consider a aftermarket cooler. thermostatically fan controlled units are nice but are more of a luxury with a steeper price tag.



everyone else stated a aftermarket converter. i went with ats and got more a whole mpg back.



regardless theres alot you can do to these trucks to make the transmissions live longer but it only cost more and more money. anything will help the stock 48res that came in these trucks. personally i had spent the money and done quite a bit got upset weighed my long term options and pulled the 48re out of my truck in favor of the manual transmissions that came with the 2006's. the swap wasnt cheap since i wanted it to look original but im happier with it.

 

[DerekW]

Externally its impossible to tell them apart. All the updates are internal.



There should be a tag or stamp somewhere on the trans with a part number that will allow a dealer to look it up for sure.



The HO's were ALL SUPPOSED to have a 48RE. I will take that under advisement then check carefully cuz weird stuff can ensue on an assembly line.

2003's and later go the 48re but yes stuff does happen on the assembly line, although I can see dodge messing up and ordering a truck load of 47re's and putting them in 100 or so 2006 trucks even during the graveyard shift. somebody would really have to try to mess up that order to order the wrong trans and install the wrong ones. although they do bolt right up n the main difference is internal with number of clutches and such