First time fuel filter change, question..

[CLorox]

<Begin_Newbie_Question>



What should I lube the o-rings with?



</Begin_Newbie_Question>



-Adam

 

[Bob Wagner]

<b>FUEL</b>

 

[CLorox]

Just making sure

Great thanks! I forgot to put my newbie disclaimer on that question *grin*



-Adam

 

[Bigsaint]

I just use some Rotella T on mine.



Scott W.

 

[CLorox]

Woohoo! Got it.

Okay, the whole thing went fairly well. I read through a few tutorials on a filter change for a 1998/99. I did experience a little bit of trouble getting it started, cranked it for 5 or 6 seconds, waited and cranked again. Took about 4 or 5 tries doing this while holding down on the go-pedal.



Questions:



Is this hard start occuring because I introduced air into the system?



I didn't prefill the canister and bumped the starter 4 times to let the lift pump do it's work, this filled it up, but I would imagine pumped a good amount of air into the lines, if I leave the drain valve open (aside from making a mess) will the air find it's way out?



The old filter (never been changed since I bought it used (a little over 15k ago) looked fairly good, certainly darker than the new one , but I did see what looked like water at the bottom of the canister. I don't recall diesel being clear / colorless. Shouldn't the water in fuel light go off if this was water?



Thats it, thanks for the help, The TDR saved me the cost of DC doing this *grin* which just payed for my subscription.



-Adam

 

[AKostman]

Re: Woohoo! Got it.

I have changed the fuel filter several times. By refilling the canister prior to starting it has started with no problem as if nothing had been changed. I beleive if you just turn on the ignition the lift pump (after a couple of times will fill the filter).

Originally posted by CLorox

Okay, the whole thing went fairly well. I read through a few tutorials on a filter change for a 1998/99. I did experience a little bit of trouble getting it started, cranked it for 5 or 6 seconds, waited and cranked again. Took about 4 or 5 tries doing this while holding down on the go-pedal.



Questions:



Is this hard start occuring because I introduced air into the system?



I didn't prefill the canister and bumped the starter 4 times to let the lift pump do it's work, this filled it up, but I would imagine pumped a good amount of air into the lines, if I leave the drain valve open (aside from making a mess) will the air find it's way out?



The old filter (never been changed since I bought it used (a little over 15k ago) looked fairly good, certainly darker than the new one , but I did see what looked like water at the bottom of the canister. I don't recall diesel being clear / colorless. Shouldn't the water in fuel light go off if this was water?



Thats it, thanks for the help, The TDR saved me the cost of DC doing this *grin* which just payed for my subscription.



-Adam

 

[johnrv4]

Here's how I do it

When I change my fuel filter, first thing I do is slip a 16" piece of 3/8" fuel line over the end of the fuel drain hose. I put the end of the fuel line in a bucket. Then I open the fuel drain. Before I loosen the cover, I take compressed air and blow off the cover of the fuel filter (lots of junk on top). I then remove the cover and let the fuel drain into the bucket. I clean out the inside of the filter canister, drain and clean the bucket, close the fuel drain, and install the new filter (after lubing the o-ring with fuel). I bought a cheap A/C recharging kit that has the correct size fitting to screw on the Schrader Valve on the injection pump(VP 44). I added about 6' of clear tygon tubing to the A/C hose. I screw the A/C hose on the Schrader Valve at the injection pump and put the loose end in the clean bucket where I can see it. Then, it is just a matter of bumping the starter until clear fuel comes out into the bucket. Three bumps of the starter purges the filter canister of air and yields about a quart and a half of fuel in the bucket. I remove the A/C hose from the pump and dump the clean fuel from the bucket back into the tank. The truck will start just like a normal start("burps" for a split second). I also use the A/C line hooked up to a 20psi gauge to check trucks for bad lift pumps. It works well for me and results in a immediate start with no excess cranking.

 

[CRuD]

John

That sounds like alot of work.



Here is what I do.

I do blow off the area around the fuel filter prior to opening. I drain the filter through the filter's water drain. Normally in a empty pepsi bottle, so I can see if there is any water in there. Then I take off the cap and filter. I wipe out the canisterand then close the drain valve and fill the filter canster about 2/3 full. I use the plastic bag trick on the fuel filter as on the engine oil filter. Then I lube the O ring with fuel and reinstall the filter, the bag catches the fuel that spills out when I put the filter in the canister. Then I bump the starter to cycle the lift pump once and then I start the engine.

Be careful not to overtorque the fuel filter cap it's plastic. I think it is a peace of crap.

I have been doing it this way since 1999 and it works for me.

See Ya

Chris

 

[johnrv4]

Chris,

It actually sounds worse than it is.



After I made-up the hose, it is just a matter of screwing it on the test-port and bumping the starter a few times. The reason I do it that way is because I don't have to keep any fuel sitting around in another fuel can. If I tried to fill the canister, I would probably spill it or bump something above it and drop some debris in it. . My buddy uses your method and it works for him also. I have to agree with you on the cap- the plastic scares me.



Later

John

 

[Blu-meanie]

I drained the filter with a longer hose into a clean glass jar to check for water/crud. Filled the filter housing with clean fuel filtered through a coffee filter and a funnel.

 

[LSMITH]

If you are refilling the canister after changing the element you are running some unfiltered fuel through the injection pump, I choose not to do this. The original question was on a 99, the 99 filter head has two test ports on it. Loosen the plug in the port closest to the center of the filter head and bump the starter until fuel starts to come out. I usually wait about a minute and then bleed one more time just for kicks, then tighten and start as normal. This works well, and at most will get a rough idle for a few seconds. The schraeder vavle procedure John described is essentially the same thing on the newer style filter heads. Hope this helps.