Guns, Bows, Shooting Sports, and Hunting Fitting a rifle barrel to an action

[GHarman]

Anyone interested in a how-to? I was thinking about this as an opportunity to pass on knowledge.

I would be glad to share the basics and welcome anyone else who is willing to share their experience, which could very well be superior to my tinkering!

Comments from interested folks are always welcome.

We can start with the Remington Model 700, Winchester M-70, Savage 110 series as well as any other threaded receiver, the basics are the same.



GregH

 

[jhenderson]

I'm always interested in learning. I may never do it myself, but if I ask someone else to do the job I want to know what's involved.

 

[GHarman]

jhenderson,
Good enough! I'll get my thoughts together and start a narrative. I will try to add pictures as well.

 

[GHarman]

To get this off the ground; The first installment.
Required tools are a quality 1" and 2" outside Micrometer, a depth micrometer or caliper with a depth stem. I prefer the depth micrometer. A headspace gauge that is correct for the cartridge for which you are chambering the barrel blank. Of course, a Lathe. (There are "Pull through" chambering reamers for pre-threaded and short chambered barrels, but this is not about that process. We can discuss that process further down the line. ) PD thread wires and conversion tables for measuring thread depth. A specific thread micrometer with appropriate anvils is available, but quite expensive!
A chambering reamer and, for my method, a centering 60* reamer to center the barrel between centers, on the lathe. There are those that will chuck the entire barrel in the head stock. That is another method. I prefer to work between centers. Some reamers are solid pilot. Some have rotating sleeve pilots that are sized to fit the bore diameter, riding on top of the lands. Cutting fluid. Some setups include a continual pressurized flush of coolant. I am doing this the old fashioned way with Sulfurized cutting oil. The next tool required is the appropriate thread cutting tool. I have hand ground my tools in the past. Today, carbide, full profile thread cutting tools are available. They cut outstanding, perfectly formed threads! Getting your lathe feeds and speeds correct is key to a fine finish!
Lets not forget a receiver and a barrel blank!
GregH

 

[GHarman]

OK, the start point. Three areas to secure.

#1. Receiver dimensions including recoil lug.

#2. Lathe alignment between centers and

#3. barrel centering.

We are starting out with the Remington M- 700 Receiver, short or long action.

My method includes tossing the factory recoil lug and use a thicker aftermarket lug. Chandler (#1) or Tubb lugs are preferred. The Tubb was not very flat as it came from Brownells

We need to measure the thickness of the lug with the 1" micrometer. It should be flat, within . 0001".

I have used a flat precision grinding stone to cross hatch (By hand) the surfaces to make sure they are as flat. If you have access to a surface grinder? This can be accomplished in a few minutes. If it is way out of being flat and parallel. Then the finished surfaces may not be perpendicular to the barrel bore. That can cause a bind when the barrel is tightened onto the receiver.

Shall we consider, for this exercise that the Remington receiver is already true and blueprinted? Locking lugs trued and lapped. That is another exercise, in itself. Requiring more specialized tooling.

Remove the cocking piece/firing pin assembly from the bolt. Remove the extractor and ejector. They get in the way.

Insert the bolt into the receiver. With the receiver in an upright position, use a depth micrometer to measure from the face of the receiver to the bolt face, in several places. Get a good average dimension. Measure also, from the receiver face to the lip of the bolt, and the front of the recoil lugs. Then measure the final thickness of the recoil lug.

I will go over to the shop and get a receiver and my micrometers and measure a real receiver for you. I will get some pictures and post them. We will draw a "map" and walk through the dimensional planning stage. The Remington receiver threads are about 1. 062" major diameter. With a 60* form and 16tpi thread pitch.



If you look at the assembly of barrel to receiver as a periodic wave generator, you can understand why I am being really picky in my dimensional characterization. Any pipefitter can screw a barrel on a receiver! The more care you take, the better the results! Your goal is to create a rifle where all the parts function as a unit, and not interfering with the harmonics in any way. You want the muzzle of the barrel in the same point in time and space, shot after shot! If you can do that, even a rough, cheap barrel can shoot well!



I should have the receiver and Micrometer in hand, tomorrow evening, then I'll write more!

GregH

 

[jhenderson]

I hope your photos match the picture in my mind. My buddy is a machinist and a more than casual gun enthusiast. I'm saving all these posts to show him. This is too cool.

 

[GHarman]

jhenderson,
If I make a mistake, miss something or if he knows a better way to do a procedure, please feel free to chime in!
This thread is not about me, it is about a process.
GregH

 

[BIGNASTY]

Im in!!!!!!!

 

[GHarman]

Thanks Brother BIG! Welcome Aboard!
GregH

 

[GHarman]

A little multitasking, this morning.

Heres a picture of the Barrel Vice with bushing, Action wrench with 3 recoil lugs and a Remington M-700 barrel tenon, receiver face and bolt face just to get started.

GregH

 

[HHhuntitall]

OK, the start point. Three areas to secure.
#1. Receiver dimensions including recoil lug.
#2. Lathe alignment between centers and
#3. barrel centering.
We are starting out with the Remington M- 700 Receiver, short or long action.
My method includes tossing the factory recoil lug and use a thicker aftermarket lug. Chandler (#1) or Tubb lugs are preferred. The Tubb was not very flat as it came from Brownells
We need to measure the thickness of the lug with the 1" micrometer. It should be flat, within . 0001".
I have used a flat precision grinding stone to cross hatch (By hand) the surfaces to make sure they are as flat. If you have access to a surface grinder? This can be accomplished in a few minutes. If it is way out of being flat and parallel. Then the finished surfaces may not be perpendicular to the barrel bore. That can cause a bind when the barrel is tightened onto the receiver.
Shall we consider, for this exercise that the Remington receiver is already true and blueprinted? Locking lugs trued and lapped. That is another exercise, in itself. Requiring more specialized tooling.
Remove the cocking piece/firing pin assembly from the bolt. Remove the extractor and ejector. They get in the way.
Insert the bolt into the receiver. With the receiver in an upright position, use a depth micrometer to measure from the face of the receiver to the bolt face, in several places. Get a good average dimension. Measure also, from the receiver face to the lip of the bolt, and the front of the recoil lugs. Then measure the final thickness of the recoil lug.
I will go over to the shop and get a receiver and my micrometers and measure a real receiver for you. I will get some pictures and post them. We will draw a "map" and walk through the dimensional planning stage. The Remington receiver threads are about 1. 062" major diameter. With a 60* form and 16tpi thread pitch.

If you look at the assembly of barrel to receiver as a periodic wave generator, you can understand why I am being really picky in my dimensional characterization. Any pipefitter can screw a barrel on a receiver! The more care you take, the better the results! Your goal is to create a rifle where all the parts function as a unit, and not interfering with the harmonics in any way. You want the muzzle of the barrel in the same point in time and space, shot after shot! If you can do that, even a rough, cheap barrel can shoot well!

I should have the receiver and Micrometer in hand, tomorrow evening, then I'll write more!
GregH

Fantastic start, GHarm!! And pictures to top it off!!

May I suggest the action squaring sequence following this? In my opinion, the tools are fairly cheap to square the front of the action and lugs..... The action face and bolt lugs are an integral part of building the rifle, as you full well know, and presuming the action is already somewhat square, given the poor quality controls most manufacturers have today, may allow a rifle that has been properly chambered and threaded not shoot correctly, due to bolt torque or being off centerline..... just my suggestion!!

The pictures put the words in action!!

roceedSir:

 

[BIGNASTY]

Gman did you make that barrel wrench or vice? I have seen some that can be bought but cant tell the quality as well as yours. My Brother is a Mold Maker and can probbley make one if they are better than store bought and he has the spec's.

 

[GHarman]

Brother BIG,
yep, made the vice and the wrench.
Had some help with the vice, but just because my BIL "volunteered"!
The wrench is hand made when I was taking machinist classes.
Have all my stuff ready to do the measurements, to walk the reader through the process.
Just having problems including pictures from the files I have stored in this newer computer.
The above pictures were in the TDR archives that I had posted on the . 308 Build.
Just for some relevant "eye candy"!
Yer Pard!
GregH

 

[GHarman]

OK, One step at a time!
I have inserted the bolt into the receiver and lightly clamped the receiver/bolt assembly in the vertical position, in a handy "third hand", where gravity is holding the bolt locking lugs in contact with the locking lugs in the receiver. The bolt is all the way closed as it is when chambering a round. With a depth micrometer measure from the face of the receiver to the lip of the bolt at the bolt head. Measure onto the bolt face, several places and down to the barrel side of the locking lugs of the bolt, on both lugs.
Measure the diameter of the bolt head, in front of the lugs (barrel side) with an outside micrometer as well as the thickness of the recoil lug. I will write down actual measurements and draw a print, photograph it and post the pictures. I need a some time to get put this together and get some tech help with picture transfer from my computer to TDR. This Apple computer is a long learning curve for me. Its all in the works! Hang tough, folks!
GregH

 

[Sticks]

GHarman - Hang on a minute... You can do all this, have done all this, and you wanted guidance on an AR!?! That's like playing with Legos by comparison to this thread.

 

[GHarman]

Sticks,

Ahh, the intricacies of the honorable "lego"! One does not know it all! While I am widely versed in certain areas. I still need classes, training from those who have expertise in other disciplines. Its just like diesel trucks! Some can change oil, filters, do the lubricating, brakes and various basic concepts. I also know how to do a clutch and rear main seal, run the valve rack on a 1st gen 12 Valve. But I need help because the transmission and T-case on a truck is far heavier (and beyond my physical capability) than a barrel blank and lathe setup requirements. I do not know how to rebuild a rear axle pod and cannot lift a brake drum/wheelbearing assembly So, I get help! If you understand where I am coming from?

With the newer evolution of trucks, I know nothing about a 2nd Gen, or a 24 valve Cummins!

As far as the AR. There is so much stuff available and I have avoided them until recently because of personal prejudices gained by actual combat use of the original A1's. I know they have come a long way. So here I am, being schooled is not a bad thing! Understanding how things go together and work is easier, with my background!

GregH

 

[BIGNASTY]

Sticks
Kind of off subject but im sure that you can help me out

Im having trouble with something that every guy should know, Maybe you can help me out with something, I have problems with the following knots
Both the Double Diamond and Diamond knots
Bank Robbers knot
quick release latigo knot on a pack saddle.
Lead Rope tied to the tail of the lead animal WITHOUT GETTIN THE CRAP KICKED OUT OF YOU, OR **** ON!!!
Pigtail knot
Chinch knot
Basket hitch
lumber hitch

And I forget the name of the knot that is used, but its the one that is used when you have a 90lb bale of hay and your holding that with ONE ARM, and tying the whole thing to the sawbuck with the other hand, before the arm holding the bale of hay gives out??? im sure you can help me with that one cant you?? Like I said I forget the name of it but I must have done it a few THOUSAND TIMES!!!!

Im sorry but im still learning after 30 plus years of packing, kind of like anything else

WE DONT KNOW IT ALL, ITS A LEARNING EXPERIANCE!!!!!!!!!!


SORRY GREG, Please continue

 

[BIGNASTY]

Sorry but I forgot to add that you have to be able to do all of them with BOTH HANDS and back-ards

THERE IS A LEFT AND RIGHT SIDE OF THE MULES!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[The patriot]

Great thread! Thank you!

 

[GHarman]

Brother BIG!
:--):-laf
GregH