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Flexplate woes

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will do, I am leaning tward the impact though. The original owner told me that the impact was after the Trans repair. I am also thinking that the crack is way too clean to have happened a while ago, or even while the engine was running. No metal scraped from the edges of the crack, but it dosn't hurt to check !!

Mark H.
 
Ok. . the saga continues. The new adapter plate from cummins is on order, I recieved the new flex plate yesterday. The rear main seal is on order ( I hope ) ;). Now for the interesting bit. After the adapter was completely removed the main crack got NOTICABLY larger. there is also a much smaller hairline crack on the opposite side ( engine side) in the 6 O'Clock position. We are thinking this is backlash from a side collision by a garbage truck that damaged the bed to the point of displaceing the weel well on the drivers side. Any thoughts !??
 
The rear main seal is on order ( I hope )



I will have it in my hand before the day is over. Call tonight or PM with an address. Unless you want to pick it up.



James
 
OK for all who are following this..... We checked the end paly today ... WAY TOO MUCH.

Looks like we will have to pull the motor, oil pan and #6 crank bering, thats the one with the thrust washer. Any one ever try just raising the motor high enough to pull the oil pan, remember that the drive shaft, transmition, and adapter plate have already been removed. Or should I have a shop do this ??? $$$ are very limited, and we already have the new flex plate. A new adapter plate is in route, the rear main seal is in hand, and oh by the way the tool to put it in with is also on the way. . I NEED some guidence on this one. Any one..... any thoughts ?? ... . All help is welcomed!!.
 
One owner swears that the pan will come off and allow the brgs to be changed. Call me tomorrow.



I have the seal carrier gasket.



Go back and check the front end and see if the end play is there also. If it isn't, you have a broken crank. I have seen two of those. One was still running with the broken crank. I will be headed that way this weekend (I think).



James
 
Ok ... new news... dit ditdidt dit ... . lo, I couldent resist. For all thos that were thinking " crank walk " Great thinking. I measured the end play and found it to be . 102"

The book calls for . 017 Max, the next question is how do you get . 083 extra???

before you all scratch you're heads and work up some brain steam. The thrust bering broke. Thats right ! Broke, the thrust washer portion of the bering broke off and fell into the pan, I have the pictures to. By the way, yes the oil pan can be remobed with out pulling a lot of stuff or the engine. Soooo now where do we get thrust berings, or should the whole set be replaced, top and bottom ? Let me know you're thoughts !
 
When/if you decide to go with 'roll in the number six thrust half', I can bring you a good used bearing. I will be back from Beaumont some time Tuesday. Nail all your demensions down as to 'within limits'. Examine the crank thrust surface and be sure there isn't roughing there.



James
 
1stgen4evr said:
One owner swears that the pan will come off and allow the brgs to be changed. Call me tomorrow.



I have the seal carrier gasket.



Go back and check the front end and see if the end play is there also. If it isn't, you have a broken crank. I have seen two of those. One was still running with the broken crank. I will be headed that way this weekend (I think).



James



What is the procedure for checking crank endplay on both ends ? I am about to pull getrag for 6 th time in 200 miles !! Everthings been checked except crank and bellhousing. Actually I did put magnetic base on oil pan and pointer on flywheel, turned with screw driver, and got very minor reading. Is there a better way ? thanks, Will
 
Will, you need to be able to push in and pry out on the crank. That is the direction of movment that you are wanting to check/measure. You can check it at the crank but turning won't show the end play. Both ends? Have someone watch the front as you move the back to the limits of travel both ways. In Marks case there was over 100 thousandths (very easily seen). Had there been movement on the back and not the front, the crank would have been broken somewhere.



The situation that Mark has is not unheard of. But I am surprised that it has happened on an engine with an automatic transmission. Perhaps anyone with high miles (over half a million) ought to consider rolling in a set of bearings. Now that is a serious job as Mark will tell you. LOTS of stuff to take off to get down to doing the bearings. I don't like wrenching that well so I won't be doing it to my 'old faithful' that now has 500k miles.



Mark I am dog tired from too many hours in the saddle. I will talk with you tomorrow.



James
 
Ok James... . you rest there ole dawg lol. I realy didnt have to take a lot off, as the transmission was pulled by the transmission shop, and the same for the adapter plate. I removed the hoses for the inter cooler, radiater, and heater core. unplugged the electrics on the right side, pulled the fan and radiater un bolted the motor mounts raised the engine removed the oil pan, dip tube, and main cap but ..... naw that aint much

lol
 
flex plate

The flex plate in my 90 2WD went last year. I replaced it with a 1200 lb. ft plate from BD. Not cheap, but works splendidly... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... bluedodge
 
Quick question on broken flexplates ... Will they still start if the flex plate is broken? I'm thinking they could not if it is completely ripped out in the center section.



Carl
 
Ok The saga continues !! I broke the new rear main seal tonight :{ 60. 00 mistake. All the bearings have been replaced and torqued up

Here are some picks of the offending part that started this trip into wonderland. The thrust bering failure caused the flexplate to hit the adapter plate.
 
Stinks about all the hassle your having to go thru BUT, aside from the broken thrust surface those bearings look awesome! How many miles on it? As for the bearing shell, it doesnt look worn on the thrust surface, just looks like those tabs snapped off. Kinda wacko design if ya ask me, esp for something that shakes as much as a 5. 9. Do you have the replacement bearing yet, I`m curious to see if they changed the design of it.
 
Ok Here are some stats to think about... There are 483000 miles on the odometer.

These are the Original bearings. Can't tell about the design of the new ones. The truck is headed back to the transmission shop tomorrow for the transmission to be reinstalled. I did note one thing however, When I started to remove the engine it was very rigidly mounted. Now it floats on the mounts... ... I wonder why ?
 
Just want to get this back to the top. Got a similar case going right now. Talked with Mark (email) and understand that the repairs are complete and the truck is on the road. Congrats Mark. It take some guts to tackle the job.



James
 
Ok !! I finally got the ole girl humming down the road, I have been babying it for the first 200 miles, then an oil change, cut the filter open to see if there is any thing in side then the gloves are off, by the way any one know how ro rais the idle just a tiny bit? seems a little low. I dont have a tach, it just seems to idle a little bit low.
 
Mark on the idle adjustment, get two nuts (I don't remember the size but they are metric) the right size to go on the idle screw. (back side of the pump) Put them on the stop end and set that for what you want. The size of the nuts will be big enought that once set they won't wear and get out of adjustment for a really long time.



James
 
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