2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission flickering headlights

[WDaniels]

My head lights have been flickering for a while and was thinking that it might be the solenoids for the grid heater or a loose ground. But tonight the headlights went out entirely while driving down the road and didn't come back on until I wiggled the headlight switch. Did a search on the headlight switch and then went and checked the headlight connector. Just like a lot of others it was melted and on the way to catching fire. The green wire marked "H" had melted the entire little housing where the spade connector goes into. It had also been repaired once before. My question is what does the "H" connector go to? Is there a tab key so I can remove the spade connectors from the housing so I don't have to cut and splice the entire light harness?Any Ideas to improve the process?

Thanks

WD

 

[wtrenholm]

Cavity "H" should be a light green wire and is "headlight output". Meaning it it supplied voltage when the switch is pulled out.



You can buy the switch and connector end (it'll have about 8" long wires inserted in it) from the dealership but the switch is available aftermarket also.



You only need to solder and splice the damaged wires and the plug, I just remove the undamage wires and insert them into the new plug.



You may want to install relays in the headlight feed circuits to eliminate the current flow through the switch.



HTH

Wayne

 

[WDaniels]

Just how and where would you install a relay in the headlight circuit and where would you get one. This is the first time I've heard of this. I replaced the switch and wires sat. Works great now.

WD

 

[illflem]

I've always thought the headlights are already relay fed, the meltdown is caused by the dash light dimmer circuit. New improved switch is supposed to take care of it.

 

[wtrenholm]

WDaniels



In looking at your signature you have additional driving lights installed. How are they hooked up? If they are fed directly off the light switch circuit, it will explain the melted headlight feed due to excessive current draw. Should be fed using a relay to protect the switch.



A typical ISO relay can be picked up at a salvage yard and grab the plug and some of the harness also. ISO means that wire locations are uniform to set standards.



I am going to be installing relays on my truck to reduce the voltage drop and will be posting that info when I get it done and figure the best way to get at stuff. Basically all that gets done is the higher current from the actual headlights in run back to the battery via the relays and the switch/dimmer switch is used to control the relays. The new set up allows more available voltage to operate the headlights, not be used up getting to and from them. My truck has 1. 25 V drop through the switches.



illflem



To the best of my knowledge the dimmer rheostat is creating a lot of heat, does it actually melt the switch? Mine sure gets warm but I've haven't worried about it.



I haven't messed with any DRL trucks but all non/DRL set ups don't have any relays that I've seen. In 99 the headlight circuit changed from having the switch/dimmer switch in the insulated side and moved them to the ground side. I've seen a number of the older style of swithes burn the parking light circuit up due to trailer lights current. This truck is the first I've heard that a headlight feed failed.



Wayne

 

[illflem]

Wayne, the rheostat overheating is a known problem and was subject to a recall on some model years. I assume it was fixed at some point.