Flush AC System when the Compressor Goes Bad?

[ctd4stan]

On another thread, I received this excellent info but it seems like it should be a separate thread (so the thread title matches the topic - at least I think that's how the threads work).



When the A/C compressor goes bad, debris from the compressor can flow into the rest of the AC system. Aside from replacing the compressor, there are other recommended AC related parts that should be replaced when you replace your AC compressor.



1. Does anyone have an AC diagram for the 2003-2007's? (or if it is specific, then '03/early '04)



2. What are those other AC-related recommended parts?

The receiver dryer is one. Since I have an '03/early '04, it seems that there is slow leak in the upper AC hose, which I will replace now. Other parts?



3. How do you "flush" the AC system?

There maybe a 'catch 22' with this because I don't want to replace parts then (guessing) blow air into the rest of the lines to get the debris out which means I blew debri into the new parts. And the vice versa of blowing debris from the 'to be replaced' parts into the lines / other components. So, I'm sure there is a sequence as to how it should be done.

 

[LRutigliano]

If the compressor went bad, as in parts destructed internally, then you should replace the discharge and liquid hoses, condenser and the orifice tube. The orifice tube has a screen so the evaporator and acumulator should be fine.



Flushing the system is used mainly to remove most of oil in the system. It wont remove pieces of compressor stuck in the condenser.



In order to flush the system, you need an AC recovery machine and fittings that can bypass the compressor, yet still allow you to hook the machine in its place. Then you "flush" with R-134a for at least 2 hours.



Compressed air is about the worst thing you could do as air (and moisture in th air) reacts to form acids with the compressor PAG oil.



Changing the parts is really the better and more complete method if the compressor self destructed.



Hope this helps,

Louis

 

[ctd4stan]

Yes, the AC compressor internally "burned up" - it was red hot and smoking. Not to rehash what happened because that is noted on my other related thread.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...2003-2007/205696-serpentine-belt-snapped.html



I'm guessing the compressor internal burn up caused (metal?) debri to get sucked into the AC system. The condensor was replaced once before. Is the effect of the debri in the system basically clogs other parts; hence, makes those other parts work less efficiently?

 

[LRutigliano]

Yes, the AC compressor internally "burned up" - it was red hot and smoking. Not to rehash what happened because that is noted on my other related thread.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...2003-2007/205696-serpentine-belt-snapped.html



I'm guessing the compressor internal burn up caused (metal?) debri to get sucked into the AC system. The condensor was replaced once before. Is the effect of the debri in the system basically clogs other parts; hence, makes those other parts work less efficiently?

Yes, everything could work less efficiently, however the risk to the new compressor trying to crunch those pieces is the real threat.

 

[ctd4stan]

Curious, eventhough the freon is gone / leaked out (since my AC was blowing warm air), what is left in the system / the lines ?

I know the system has AC oil.

 

[E7mack96]

at our shop, we use nitrogen to flush out lines. also use it to pressure test system before putting r134a back into the system.



Tony

 

[sag2]

There is a TSB from a few years ago on Caravan and Voyager compressor repairs when the compressor locks up. It required the complete system to be replaced/cleaned. Not doing the job completely usually resulted in a very quick second compressor failure, or if you were lucky, just a plugged expansion valve. On dual A/C units it was a very expensive and time consuming job.

 

[ctd4stan]

Here's what I had done.

After driving less than 1000 miles (after the A/C compressor burned up internally) it was the A/C pulley that froze up, which caused the belt to snap.



Here's what an A/C shop did.



Flushed the evaporator, condenser and lines (excluding the liquid line).

Replaced the A/C compressor, accumulator container (aka. receiver dryer), liquid line which had the built in fixed orifice tube (aka. expansion valve),



I replaced the belt tensioner even though is was okay - meaning the pulley still turned but you could feel that it was not rotating smoothly (it felt like it needed grease in the bearings). For a 5 yr old pulley, with 95k I decided to replace it just to be on the safe side.



I cleaned the alternator / generator pulley because when the belt snapped, there was a lot of rubber debris in the pulley grooves. Now, the new Gatorback belt would seat properly. (I previously had a Mopar belt, but I did hear the ‘chirp' at shut-down. For now, the chirp is gone with the new Gatorback belt. )



Thank you all for your input.

 

[Okie-Go]

I have the ac compressor on mine out right now. Probably in the shop this week. No ac is no fun. Dealer did say it was the compressor. OUCH!

 

[Motorhead]

Replace the receiver drier also.

 

[Okie-Go]

Cost a bit more but I took your advice. Blows real cold right now.

Okie