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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Flushing brake fluid

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Hello All,



Pardon this seemingly simple question, but how exactly does one flush the brake fluid? Turkey baster in the resevoir and bleed screws open?



Someone please relay the proper procedure; my brake woes are too much to bare!



~Chris
 
Okay this is two man method.

Items needed open end wrench to fit brake bleeder, 2 quarts brake fluid, 2 foot of clear hose that fits brake bleeder nipple, paper towels, turkey baster makes it a little faster



1. Use turkey baster or towel to remove as much old brake fluid as possible from resevoirs.



2. refill with good quality brake fluid of DOT4 or DOT5. 1 (do not use DOT5 it is non-compatiable) I like Valvoline DOT 4 (high dollar race fluids are generally more hygoscopic and absorb more water)



3 start at left rear place a clear hose over brake bleeder nipple



4. have helper apply brakes and hold



5. open bleeder



6. when helper has pedal on floor close bleeder then helper releases brake



7. repeat until no air and good clean fluid comes out Normally about 10-12 cycles after 3-4 check brake fluid level



8. move to right rear repeat 3-7 then left front then right front.



I like to go back and do a recheck on each one after all 4 wheels.



One man method

items needed bove but sustitute hose for brake vacumum speed bleeder.



This follows basically instructions for two man but you just open valve and suck fluid through as opposed to needing a helper to pump brakes. I do not like this method as well seems air bubbles are left in caliper more oftern.
 
Oops I forgot a clear Dr. Pepper bottle to catch fluid in; clear is important so you can see the color of the fluid coming out
 
Problem that I've run into many times when using the pump the pedal method Eric describes is that the brake pedal stoke with the bleeder open is longer than normal. Many times the portion of the master cylinder bore that isn't normally used is rusty, a longer than normal stroke into this area can tear up the cylinder seals, time for a master cylinder rebuild or replacement. This is probably the most common cause of poor brakes after bleeding.



I use the vacuum pump method, a pump is cheap from the auto parts.



Another method if you've got the time is to just open the bleed screw with tubing attached and let it drain by gravity into your container. With any method be careful the reservoir doesn't go empty or you'll be starting over.
 
3 start at left rear place a clear hose over brake bleeder nipple



...

8. move to right rear repeat 3-7 then left front then right front.



I'm going to have to check again, but I believe my service manual states to start at the furtherst point from the master cylinder and work you way to the closest. i. e. RR, LR, RF, LF.



Other than that, Great post Eric_77
 
Thanks all! This will be a fun project for Thanksgiving (a good excuse to get out of housework ;)



My last question is for eric_77: can't I use a coke bottle instead of Dr. Pepper? :D

~Chris
 
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Originally posted by sonorakitch

Hello All,



Pardon this seemingly simple question, but how exactly does one flush the brake fluid? Turkey baster in the resevoir and bleed screws open?



Someone please relay the proper procedure; my brake woes are too much to bare!



~Chris



Chris. Use a pressure bleeder if you can. PM me, and you can bring it to my house this week and we can do it in the drive way. I use a bleeder made originally for a 1940 LaSalle. Looks terrible, but works fine.
 
Another way to do it without a second person is to use a bottle large enough to hold a good amount of fluid and put about 2" of fluid in it to start and make sure the bleed hose from the bleeder is submerged so it cant suck any air back in when letting up on the pedal. I wrap some wire around the neck of the bottle and make a hook to hang the bottle from a brake line or something so it cant tip over. The vacum pump is still the best way.
 
As Mr. Burns would say "Excellant". This is just what I need to get so I can get my brakes done this next spring. Just wish there was the same thing for the power steering fluid...



Thanks Guys!!
 
When you say pressure bleeder do you mean the type that attaches to the master cylinder reservoir or a vacuum bleeder that attaches to bleeder on each wheel?

Reason I ask is because when I checked into the reservoir type they wanted $50 just for the adaptor for Dodge trucks. It was hard for me to justify that much for a adaptor that could only be used on one type of vehicle.
 
Originally posted by donyo

3 start at left rear place a clear hose over brake bleeder nipple



...

8. move to right rear repeat 3-7 then left front then right front.



I'm going to have to check again, but I believe my service manual states to start at the furtherst point from the master cylinder and work you way to the closest. i. e. RR, LR, RF, LF.



Other than that, Great post Eric_77



You may be correct, I'm not certain, but the brake line travels over the axle to the LR from the RR. Which would make the LR travel a further distance than the RR. So "as a crow flies" the distance to the RR may be farther, but the pattern of the brake lines makes the LR farther.



This is how it has been on most of my trucks, but i'll have to check this one to make sure. I've yet to change the brake fluid, it's barely a year old now.
 
illflem,

I am referring to pushing the fluid through the system via an adapter on the top of the master cylinder.



You can get the entire kit for a Dodge for $54. 95 including the adapter, reservior, hose, ect... Basically everything you need to positive pressure bleed the brakes. I purchased the one for $69. 95 that includes the adapter to do many other types of american cars.



Check them out here: http://www.motiveproducts.com/ordernow_bleeders.htm
 
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