Flywheel prep and clutch questions.

[BlownRat]

In preparation for clutch replacement I bought a factory manual (1994) and in the general clutch section, under “flywheel runout” it is stated, “If the surface is warped or severely scored, replace the flywheel” and also stated in bold type, “Do not machine the flywheel. The flywheel face is manufactured with a unique surface contour. Machining would negate this feature and could result in unsatisfactory operation. ”

WTFO?????!!!! This is inconsistent with what I have read on the TDRoundtable and in the TDR. What do you all think? Joseph Donnelly, Peter @ Southbend Clutch, you gentleman have what I believe to be the best shot at answering this question. How should the flywheel be prepped? Also, I am still gathering info on what clutch to use, what is the latest? I hope to end up in the 400 HP range when the smoke clears and would like to install a clutch package that will hold.

Thanks to all for the great information and entertainment. The TDR is the best truck modification I‘ve found!
Andrew

 

[South Bend Clutch]

I agree with Joe, you will be fine with a stone resurface. I would never recommend resurfacing a flywheel with a lathe after it has been ran. Doing this will force you to cut under the hot spots to get a proper surface thus taking to much metal off.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Later service manuals don't say that, unless I just haven't found it. They do caution against "heavy stock" removal. A good stone should take off 0. 001-0. 002" and give a nice swirl pattern for break in. It would be hard to warp the flywheel as it is about 1. 5" thick. I have used properly resurfaced flywheels many times with excellent results. The stock wheel is lathe turned and I prefer the stone finish.

 

[BlownRat]

Thanks guys for the response so quick. I agree on the stone finish. The manual is missleading.

Andrew

 

[adiabatic]

My 97 manual does indeed state that no machining is permitted. I mentioned this to the shop that changed my clutch and they gave me a funny look. They ground it anyway.
The clutch works fine, it's stock.

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1997 4x4 CC 5spd, 230hp kit, Horton fan, Sport headlamps, Optima RedTops, 98 shift levers and console, RS5000 shocks, Yaesu VHF radio, and BCT7 scanner in the overhead console... N7DAL.

 

[rhoads]

While you are headed to the machine shop,I would strongly suggest calling south bend clutch and getting a pilot bushingthe cost is cheap now(labor) and if (should have said "when" )that needle caged thing fails
you will be in there again.
Also most members have not had the proplem,because it seams to fail after you replace the clutch,and any one doing this worth there snap-on tools install every thing new -clutch plate-throw out bearing -and cover plate & pilot brg. Most of the tru user's (every day hauling experance, the new d/c pilot bearing fails about 30k down the road. And if you have ever read my post on this" Weakest Link" (one of two) subject you will never revisit this location.
currently i have some where about 550 k mi. with there bushing.
I can say the only other 3 things i have ever invested in and have been thankful for is my Lube (eng/transmission choise's)-&-(own) 5th gear fix & lennox pulse furance$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

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96-3500 SLT EXT. CAB AM/FM/CD-RINO LINER. D-CELERATOR EXH. BRK-RED LINE VAC. OVER HYD BRK CONTROL- AIR BAGS W/HVY DUTY AIR COMP. PUTCO S/STEEL DEEPBOARDS FRONT TO REAR. REESE 20K 5TH WHEEL & GOOSE -REESE 20K HITCH BELOW W/17K RECEVER. CLEAR COATED & SOUND DEADINGING &UNDER COATED 5 SPD/W 4:10 MCHLN'S 235/16'S UNIDEN PC76/WEATHER-WILSON 1000 MAG MOUNT ANT. 4 WHL ANTI LOC BRK SYS.
750,000 miles

 

[rhoads]

the judgement is still out on the truck will ,let you know at 1 mil.