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Fog Lights as Backup Lights

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Ram & Fox

I have a fairly old set of Bosch square fog lights that I was thinking about putting on my slide-in truck camper as backup lights. The lights that are on there are not much better than backing into a black hole and the camper covers the trucks backup lights.



Each light is 55 watts, so I was planning to use the low beam relay attached to the reverse lights so the lights would only work when the trucks reverse lights are on. Then connect the lights themselves through a switch to a battery circuit.



Has someone done something like this and how does it work?



Can the backup circuit take the extra 10Amps from the fog lights without the relay and battery circuit?



Thanks Shannon
 
hey Shan, I used a set of Piaa 1500's tucked under the bumper and WOW! Yeah a relay is definatly recomended tho the futle b/u lighting circuit can't handle the addt'l load.
 
Can the backup circuit take the extra 10Amps from the fog lights without the relay and battery circuit?



Shannon-

I think that you would be awfully close to the limits of the back-up circuit. You have to add the current drawn from the Bosch lights, the OEM truck back-up lights, and then the back-up lights of the Lance itself. If it did work, you would probably get a pretty good voltage drop across that "tiny" gauge wire that the factory used resulting in a "dimmed" output. I would definitely go for the lights, but use the existing circuit to drive a relay instead and get that full 13. 8V to the lights. :D
 
I'd suggest running another switch, through a relay, and not connecting the backup lights into the mess. The previous owner of my truck connected aux. lights to the backup switch as well as to another switch so he could turn them on seperate from the backups, and the whole circuit blew out pretty fast. I then disconnected the backups from the circuit and switch on the aux. lights only when I need them.



Good luck,

Scott



BTW - my aux. lights are the flood style you can get at Autozone or a similar place for about $10 each, and they are BRIGHT :cool:
 
Before you drill and wire, jury rig your lights to check out the pattern. Foglights may not give you what you want due to the narrow long beam pattern. I know because I used foglights I had on hand for backups on my truck. They work but could be much better. Pick up some halogen tractor work lights. They are not that expensive, made to hold up to rough duty, come in various sizes and beam patterns.
 
Tractor lights, that what I used. They come in "flood" "trapeziod" and "long range" patterns. The flood are the best for backups. The trapezoid works well for lighting the inside of a truck sander for plowing, and the long range work well for mounting high on a roof or ROPS of a tractor and using like headlights. That's been my experience, at any rate. I forget the brand I've got, but I got them from Autozone, and they are called something like "Tractor Work Lights" they go for $10 each, and come in a plastic holder that has a sort of light purple/dark pink cardboard slip. I've also seen these at WallyWorld for the same price, but they are not called "tractor lights" but something like "off road lights. " These have a pic of a red Dodge 1500 QC SB on one side. Just make sure before you put anything on that you check with local authorities about what is defined as "off-road" use only, and what is legal. Most likely you'd be fine, but better safe than sorry. :( :mad:



The other advantage to floods that are seperately switched is that if you want to party at night, just flip on the lights and you're set. Works for me :D



Scott
 
I ran mine off of the backup circuit at the 7 pin connector and while It's close (110 watts + the stock lamps) to the 15 max draw, it works fine and I have not popped a fuse yet.
 
So, could (should) I run:



30amp relay



Could (should) I wire lights with two switches and reverse as described below?



1) power from back up light wire on trailer harness

and

2) power from switch #1 in cab

and

3) power from switch #2 in back of truck



And the Lights to terminal 87???



Will this setup also turn on my reverse lights with the backup lights via either the cab of back of truck switch in addition to the reverse switch?



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Bill
 
Last edited by a moderator:
rfcom,



Thank You! Your description and diagram were clear to me.



A few questions though... .



Does the diagram below look like it will work?



Is there anything I should change to make it better, simpler, safer?



Is there a spec on the diode that I should look for? Is this a Radio Shack type of item? Does the diode "connect in-line? Solder, with shrink wrap?



More inline fuses?



Which battery, driver or passenger side? or Spare fuse (space) in box under the hood?



Thanks again, I really appreciate the help!

Bill



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Last edited by a moderator:
Rock, your circuit will work. One change you may want to make is to get power for the activation switches from a switched ACC source so you don't accidently leave the lights on even when the key is off. The diodes are nothing special. RS shoud have them. Just ask for 1N4001 or 1N400x. Any diode with a rating of 1A and 50V or more will work. These are very common. I just soldered them inline and covered the whole works with heat shrink. I placed the relay and fuse inside the PDC cover and tapped into a hot terminal by using a fuse and breaking off part of the plastic so I could solder a wire onto it. Maybe not the best way, but was convenient at the time. Good luck.



Jim
 
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