Food for the drivetrain??

[bowhunter]

I'm planning on changing axles seals in the rear. Sounds like a good time to change lube.

I'm palnning on using Amsoil 2000 75-140 in the front and rear axles.

Do I use Amsoil ATF in the transfer case? Do I use the Amsoil 2000 75-140 in the 5 spd transmission?

Any suggestions? I've looked in old posts to get my info up to now.

Thanks

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97 2500 Reg cab 4WD, Emerald Green and Driftwood, 3. 54 gears, 2" Daystar Coil Spacers, 315/75/16 AT BFG'S on Alcoa's, Trailmaster SSV shocks & SSV steering stabilizer, K&N, stock, oh yeah--no silencer ring

K. Kinion

 

[sam peterson]

don. t know anything about the gearoil requirements but don't forget to use silicone sealer on the outer edge of the seals where they go into the hub. that is where most of the seals leak after replacement.

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Bow Hunter,

IMO the 75W-140 is too heavy a gear oil. Don't use it in the transmission. If you were towing a 10,000 lb trailer up and down hills in 100 degree weather the 75W-140 would be the better bet. Amsoil's Series 2000 75W-90 is plenty tough enough. And you get better mileage with a 75W-90. Use it in the front & rear Diffs and the NV-4500 transmission. Geno's transmission filter (see below) is a good idea too. I placed a very strong magnet in the filter housing. This will help capture wear metals too.

#ad



Amsoil's universal ATF is a good choice fro the transfer case. Thats what's in mine. #ad


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Bill R
94 2500 SLT 4x4 5 Speed, 3. 54 LS, JRE 4" exhaust, Autometer Pyro, Boost & Water temp gauges, Bosch 215 HP injectors, Timing @ 14. 7º, JRE Stage III #4 plate 270/675, AFC spring kit, Scotty Air, Bully Dog Propane Injection, Roadmaster Active Suspension, Optima Red Tops, Geno's Exhaust Blanket, Espar Heater (won it!), Synthetic lubes throughout.



[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 02-15-2001). ]

 

[bowhunter]

Thanks for the advice,

I don't pull much, very little. I plan to go through both diffs and the transmission, and transfer case. I bought the truck used with 69,000 miles on it, my mechanic friend at the dodge dealership went through the truck before I picked it up. But now with 120,000 miles and stock, and right before the bombing-- I would feel better changing everything.

I'm gonna change both rear seals while I got it apart, my luck if I change one, the other will leak a week later.

Oh yeah--should I go for an aftermarket shop manual, or go to Dodge for a high dollar MOPAR book?


Thanks for the help

Kurt

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97 2500 Reg cab 4WD, Emerald Green and Driftwood, 3. 54 gears, 2" Daystar Coil Spacers, 315/75/16 AT BFG'S on Alcoa's, Trailmaster SSV shocks & SSV steering stabilizer, K&N, stock, oh yeah--no silencer ring

K. Kinion

 

[Cooker]

Buy the OEM Dodge manual. Save the $15 and put it toward the real deal. I bought the cheapy to start and, IMO, it is a fairly decent manual, but it is not very comprehensive when it comes to many things.

If you a cheap and broke, like me, the cheapy manual will help you out for a little while, but you will outgrow it quickly. If I had to do it again, I would buy the real one from the start. Ryan

 

[bowhunter]

Thanks---Yeah I know what you mean. .

I'll pick one up at Dodge when I pick up the two rear seals.

Kurt

 

[trucknut]

bowhunter

National is the brand name of the seal I would recomend to use. The ones in your Dodge axles are C. R. which I think stands for Chicago Rawhide.
I learned about this the hard way and have discussed this with small bus. mechanics. (who can't afford the come backs).
Automotive parts,industrial bearing shops,phone around till you find them don't settle for anything less.
on the dana 80 rear end you'll need a 2 9/16 socket to remove the nyloc spindle nut.
I bought one at Napa, home made style,
good price. I'am not sure if the dana 70 has the same size nut,maybe some one can confirm the dana 70 spindle nut size.

[This message has been edited by trucknut (edited 02-16-2001). ]

 

[trucknut]

REAR AXLE SEALS.
(Dodge seals are C. R. stands for Chicago Rawhide)C. R. should be stamped on your factory seals.
I've used dodge seals,my co-workers have used them,they just don't seem to hold up.

The seals that we have better luck with are "National". It's a real pain to have to re-do seals over.

[This message has been edited by trucknut (edited 02-16-2001). ]

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

I got CR 28746 seals for my 2500 Dana 80 from Pep Boys @$8. 50. They are OK, but remember two tips: be sure the preload is set and backed off as specified in the manual for around 0. 010" end play (1/8 turn if I recall) so the hub doesn't wobble and make them leak. Put a bit of moly grease on the seal lips and on the spindle so they don't burn up before seating.
Hope this helps.

 

[bowhunter]

Thanks trucknut--

I was wondering if factory seal were any good.

"National" --are these National Auto Parts Assoc. seals (NAPA)? I would bet these are what you are talking about.

If so please let me know. They are probably cheaper. .

Kurt

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97 2500 Reg cab 4WD, Emerald Green and Driftwood, 3. 54 gears, 2" Daystar Coil Spacers, 315/75/16 AT BFG'S on Alcoa's, Trailmaster SSV shocks & SSV steering stabilizer, K&N, stock, oh yeah--no silencer ring

K. Kinion

 

[bowhunter]

Thanks Joe

Well the weekend is almost over and I didn't get a chance to fix the seal. It doesn't seem to be leaking bad, so they will have to wait until next weekend. My schedule is set for next weekend for sure.

Kurt

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97 2500 Reg cab 4WD, Emerald Green and Driftwood, 3. 54 gears, 2" Daystar Coil Spacers, 315/75/16 AT BFG'S on Alcoa's, Trailmaster SSV shocks & SSV steering stabilizer, K&N, stock, oh yeah--no silencer ring

K. Kinion

 

[sam peterson]

the national part number is 2081 and the dealer supplies a heavy duty seal for the application but you have to request it. about 4. 00 more.

 

[bowhunter]

Thanks,

I'll get on the phone and try to find them.

I appreciate it.

Kurt