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For *Bleeps* sake, adjust your valves

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I don't adjust my own valves. I probably could, but it's just one more thing I really don't want to experiment with.



Anyways... I had my local mechanic who has worked on 5. 9's forever, do an adjustment. When I picked the truck up I asked him if it was a waste of time/money and he said, "there was only one that I didn't change. "



Truck definently sounds a lot different. I haven't figured out if it's better or just different. I get better mpg, but it's also unseasonably warm now and I always get better mileage when it's warm out.



Truck sounds more like a diesel, less like a wannabe.
 
At what mileage was this valve adjustment done, a buddy mine thats a mechanic I had ask him about adjusting the valves and he said all the ones he has done, only one truck actually needed them set that all the rest was with in the right tolerance. Of course he said he has not done a 3rd Gen truck yet. Seems like the book says 150K if I remember right.



Tony
 
Cattletrkr said:
About 102K. I thought the book said "never"??? I don't look at my book anymore, it's usually wrong.

Ok 102K any other problems at that mileage to report like lift pump, injector pump,etc. I got aways to go on my 03 it's about to turn over 38K so far so good on the above. :D



Tony
 
I took both my dad's and my 99s in for valves at just under 150k... they were VERY loose... I'm having the 04. 5's done at 100k.



steved
 
The specs for the 24v's have a huge tolerance. If you want it to be as smooth as possible adjust them. I don't want my trucks to be in tolerance... . I want them to be right. They are usually all over the scale at the first adjustment,in tolerance but not even.



Bob
 
Bob4x4 said:
The specs for the 24v's have a huge tolerance. If you want it to be as smooth as possible adjust them. I don't want my trucks to be in tolerance... . I want them to be right. They are usually all over the scale at the first adjustment,in tolerance but not even.



Bob
Kinda like DC specs on ball joints, my drivers side wheel I can rattle it or make it pop back and forth but the dealership claims everything is well with in tolerance. This was at 34K miles. :(



Tony
 
I do mine every 50k. I have found some that are a little loose and some are right where I put them. Probably one of the easier things to do on your truck, why not check them often.
 
I had 37K on the truck when I did mine last, and all but 3 or 4 were set to the right tolerance, a few were too tight, but the majority were loose. It is a wise thing to adjust them, seriously. Your truck will run alot better, it seems air filters, fuel filters, and valve adjustments are the easiest things to do to keep your truck running right. That and maybe a fuel lubricant. Enjoy the day.
 
Would someone post the specifications for the intake and exhaust valves as well as the correct procedure.....



Thanks
 
Tony T. said:
Kinda like DC specs on ball joints, my drivers side wheel I can rattle it or make it pop back and forth but the dealership claims everything is well with in tolerance. This was at 34K miles. :(



Tony

ditto to that, or the steering knuckle rubbing on the lower control arm at full lock, but not on bump stop... . :(
 
Bob4x4 said:
The specs for the 24v's have a huge tolerance. If you want it to be as smooth as possible adjust them. I don't want my trucks to be in tolerance... . I want them to be right. They are usually all over the scale at the first adjustment,in tolerance but not even.



Bob

Bob is right on the money. Since I want optimal smoothness I have always adjusted my valves long before 50k miles on my new trucks (have had 2 of them). Not only that but I like to tweak mine to . 008" intake . 018" exhaust +/- . 001" not the huge wide gap Cummins allows (which I've never understood).



Valve adjustment: take valve cover off, rotate engine until you see the rocker arms move on either Cyl #1 or #6. . . stop at the point where one valve just closes and the other just starts to open on either of those two cylinders. It doesn't matter which half of the procedure you do first.



--If you're at the valve crossover of Cylinder #6 then #1 is at TDC, adjust:

Exhaust on odd cylinders 1,3,5

Intake on 1,2,4



--If you're at the valve crossover of Cyl #1 then #6 is at TDC, adjust:

Exhaust on even cylinders 2,4,6

Intake on 3,5,6



Once you've done one half of the procedure then rotate the engine 360* and do the other half. More info here (this is for 12-valve but all 24v is the same). http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/valve_adj/12_valve.html



Vaughn
 
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Tony T. said:
Ok 102K any other problems at that mileage to report like lift pump, injector pump,etc. I got aways to go on my 03 it's about to turn over 38K so far so good on the above. :D



Tony

--LP last fall

--rear driveshaft u-joints @55K

--front driveshaft in the shop as I type. I don't like screwing stuff up so I gave up on that stubborn sucker.

--Rear brakes @96K, fronts still factory





Now I gotta convince dad to get his '03 done. Maybe I could learn on his... :-laf
 
Vaughn MacKenzie said:
Bob is right on the money. Since I want optimal smoothness I have always adjusted my valves long before 50k miles on my new trucks (have had 2 of them). Not only that but I like to tweak mine to . 008" intake . 018" exhaust +/- . 001" not the huge wide gap Cummins allows (which I've never understood).



Valve adjustment: take valve cover off, rotate engine until you see the rocker arms move on either Cyl #1 or #6. . . stop at the point where one valve just closes and the other just starts to open on either of those two cylinders. It doesn't matter which half of the procedure you do first.



--If you're at the valve crossover of Cylinder #6 then #1 is at TDC, adjust:

Exhaust on odd cylinders 1,3,5

Intake on 1,2,4



--If you're at the valve crossover of Cyl #1 then #6 is at TDC, adjust:

Exhaust on even cylinders 2,4,6

Intake on 3,5,6



Once you've done one half of the procedure then rotate the engine 360* and do the other half. More info here (this is for 12-valve but all 24v is the same). http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/valve_adj/12_valve.html



Vaughn



Good post,



JRG
 
This is a very informative post - Thank you!



I was thinking of tackling this procedure this weekend - Kind of scared to try it as I have never done it before:



1) How do I tell the intake from the exhaust valve?

2) Is the number one cylinder in the front or the back of the truck

3) What special tools do I need (what exactly do I measure the gap with)?

4) WHERE should I be measuring the gap (between what 2 pieces/parts)?



Thanks for the help,



- Jason
 
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Buy a Service manual, it has detailed instructions in it... You will find yourself using it more often than you would think. It has to be the best resource you can buy for your truck.
 
JMerola said:
1) How do I tell the intake from the exhaust valve?

2) Is the number one cylinder in the front or the back of the truck

3) What special tools do I need (what exactly do I measure the gap with)?

4) WHERE should I be measuring the gap (between what 2 pieces/parts)?



intake valve rocker is the shorter one, exhaust rocker is the longer one [towards pass. side]



cylinders are numbered from engine front [#1] to rear [#6 @ flywheel]



a simple set of feeler gauges will do the job, or if you want to get really precise, you can use a dial indicator to determine the lash



between the end of the rocker arm and the valve bridge/valve crosshead



service manual said:
Measure the valve lash by

inserting a feeler gauge between the rocker arm

socket and crosshead (Fig. 32). Refer to VALVE

LASH LIMIT CHART for the correct specifications. If

the measurement falls within the limits, adjustment/

resetting is not necessary. If measurement

finds the lash outside of the limits, adjustment/resetting

is required.
 
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