FP Gauge Install

[jman]

All this lift pump talk scared me into ordering a fuel pressure gauge from Geno's! I was under the impression I would be able to tell it was going by how it started and if started running poorly, but it seems a lot of guys are saying they still run fine on a bad lift pump. I changed my filter at 12,000 and it started up like nothing happened. Just bumped the starter, waited, hit the switch and it fired right up.



So tell me if this sounds reasonable. I was going to replace the banjo bolt on the outlet of the fuel filter housing with Ray's tapped banjo bolt, use a grease gun line to mount the sending unit remotely, and get power to the gauge in the cab. Am I missing a major step that is going to blow my mind when I start doing this? Is it difficult to get it started again after all this takes place? Do you need to bleed the grease gun line or will the air eventually work its way out without damaging the sender? Teflon tape or something else to ensure a leak free seal?



I would appreciate any helpful hints or expert advice any of you might have. I'm a little nervous if it's not obvious!!

 

[SFord]

Loosen the gauge from the hose and then put the gauge in a container and with help from someone else turn the key to the on position without starting the truck. This will force all of the air from the line and pressurize the line all the way to the gauge, then tighten gauge and start the truck. Hope your PSI,s are ok.

 

[illflem]

jman, sounds like you have a good plan. Only things to do different is not use Teflon tape, it doesn't hold up well with diesel, heat and is hard to clean off if you ever remove a fitting and reuse it. Hate to think what the tape bits would do to an injection pump. Use anti-seize for thread sealant. Not sure on the sender you are using but you may need to make provisions for grounding it, the hose will isolate it from ground. One way to ground it is with a tee connected to the sender with a plug that you have tapped a small hole in (not all the way though) for a screw to hold a ground wire. If you use a brass plug you can just drill a hole and use a small self tapping screw. I've never had to bleed anything after doing this, but it will take what seems like a lot of cranking to get it to fire. The air will work it's way out from the hose. Keep everything extremely clean when doing this install, you are on the clean side of the filter, small debris can equal big problems. I like to blow everything out with compressed air or brake cleaner before installing.



Note: On a 12 valve you should also use a gauge snubber or needle valve to protect the sender from violent pulsations. If a 24 valve lift pump is working correctly it doesn't pulse much.

 

[Ron Bissett]

Do not use teflon tape as it may get in to the injector pump and or to the injectors. Brass fittings with barbs and hose clamps ,regular fuel line hose is fine only 15 or 16 psi grease hose ok if ID is large enough . Ron in Louisville KY

 

[Bigsaint]

Sounds pretty good to me. I would also swap out the banjo on the inlet to the injection pump, while you are there, if not the others as well.



I didn't bleed the air from my Autometer mechanical gauge, works just fine. Guess that it couldn't hurt though.



I agree with illflem on the use of teflon tape, I've been using a thread dope made by Master Plumber called TFE paste on all of my fuel fittings, works great and should be available at any hardware store.



Scott W.

 

[RustyJC]

I'm running a Westach combo dual fuel pressure gauge measuring pre-filter and post-filter fuel pressure. I have the sending units remote-mounted on the firewall, used Ray's tapped banjo bolts and plumbed between the bolts and senders with stainless steel braided hose. I lost two (2) post-filter sending units within 500-1000 miles after installation due to pulsations feeding back from the inlet of the VP-44. Since installing a gauge snubber at the post-filter sending unit, all has been OK. I know a lot of people haven't had problems, but I just wanted to give you a "heads up"... ...



Edit: One more option for a thread sealant is good ole Permatex #2 (non-hardening) - a staple for sealing hydrocarbons in the oil field. It works for me!



Rusty