Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) FP isolator ?

[AWeik]

i just got my isspro guages thursday and ive got the boost gauge and pryo hooked up. my question is how do i get fuel to the FP isolator? do i need a banjo bolt? the genos istructions dont really show how to hook up the isolator to the fuel system. ive searched around and havnt really read anyhting about getting fuel to the isolator. 93k on original VP and LP, and with my heavy right foot im getting nervous... . any adivice would be appreciated.

 

[DLausche]

You will need a tapped banjo bolt at the VP inlet. Geno's has them available. Should be 1/8" NPT threads. This will plumb to the inlet side of the isolator. Use a sturdy rubber hose of some sort here and NOT the stiff poly tube stuff as that will crack and fail from the engine vibs. You will also need some sort of small needle valve in this line barely cracked open. This acts like a snubber and will remove pulses produced by the VP that otherwise will make your gauge noisy. You need to remove ALL the air in the line from isolator to gauge in order to get good results. FWIW, I would forego the isolator and just plumb diesel to the back of the gauge if I had mine to do over again. This way one does not need to bleed air from the line. Lots easier IMO.



-Deon

 

[AWeik]

does anyone have a picture of the isolator set up or the straight diesel to gauge set up? could i use a grease gun whip from the banjo bolt to the diaphram side of the isolator. i dont know why im so confused this should be an easy job right?

 

[DLausche]

does anyone have a picture of the isolator set up or the straight diesel to gauge set up? could i use a grease gun whip from the banjo bolt to the diaphram side of the isolator. i dont know why im so confused this should be an easy job right?

Here is a couple pics of my setup. Your 02 will not have the NPT fitting on the filter canister like mine thus you ned a tapped banjo bolt at the VP inlet.



The only tricky part to the isolator is getting all the air out of the line between the isolator and gauge. I used a small syringe (no needle!) like those used for giving the kids oral doses of medicine and a 2" piece of small surgical tubing. With gauge off, you can slip the tubing over the end of the nylon tubing in the cab and push anti-freeze solution through to the isolator end of the line. Make sure to bleed the air out of the isolator too. Small amounts of air can be removed by repeatedly pushing antifreeze into the line and then pulling back into the syringe. You should be able to get a fair amount more into the line and isolator than one would think due to the fact that the diaphram in the isolator will flex a good amount. The excess will be purged when the diaphram returns to relaxed position. Also us a similar procedure to get as much air out of the gauge as possible before final connection.



All of this bleeding air is not needed if you plumb diesel to the gauge. Air in the line like that is fine since there is no locked or isolated part of the circuit and the fluid (diesel) can move freely in and out of the line as needed. Any air in the line w/o an isolator is quickly compressed to the same PSI as the liquid.



First pic is the isolator on the drivers side inner fender. 2nd pic is the line and snubber to the filter canister.

 

[AWeik]

I guess i get it now. Im a visual learner. So i just need a hose setup like that except the hose will obvisously come off the VP. Is that vulcan hose? I want to get the vulcan relocate kit... would there be enough hose with that kit to make a piece or is it an exact fit?... i like how clean that plumbing looks. i have to many questions..... thanks for the pics.









AFW

 

[DLausche]

The hose I used is Russell Twist-Lok size -4AN (1/4") for the filter to isolator and -8AN (1/2") for the fuel delivery to VP. I'd think the Vulcan kit is larger than 1/4" but it should work if you got extra with that kit and can find the proper fittings. I got my hose and fittings from Summit. There are other brands of hose & fittings too and any will work fine. The hose I got came in a Russell box but is actually made by Parker. I suspect end fittings and different brands of hose are interchangeable, but can't verify that or guarantee that is fact. You will probably only need 3 to 3-1/2 feet of hose. The hose just pushes onto the fitting and there is no clamp - just a decorative end that looks like it clamps but doesn't really. I was wrong about it coming apart easily as the fitting will absolutely NOT come out of the hose once assembled no matter how hard you pull on it.



If you haven't bought the Vulcan kit yet and are going to, then you can probably save a bit on shipping by just asking them to throw in 4' of 1/4" hose and a few ends along with the Vulcan kit for a few extra $.



-Deon