2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission fried light switch

[RDelissen]

Hello,



recently I had smoke and heat developing at the light switch and I read about the problem, so I got the kit from Summit.

After taking the switch apart earlier today I found out though that it is not just the switch, but also the connector that fried.

The picture below shows what I'm talking about:

Fried light switch connector



Please let me know if that can be replaced or if it's better to just go ahead and work with 'crimp ons' and be careful to connect the right wire to the right 'adapter'



Any and all info is welcome

 

[Signal73]

Although this applies only to 3500's here is some info which may be helpful. I have heard they do sell a new connector with wire leads about a foot long or so coming off it to fix this problem. Im not sure where to find the P/N maybe someone else can chime in.

 

[ViperJay]

The kit I got had the switch, connector, wires with terminals attached, and shrink tubing. I was lucky, all wires were OK, just the connector melted and the switch cooked..... although it was a bit of work I was able to get the wires out of the melted terminal one at a time and insert them into the new connector. Installed the new switch and a Summit relay kit.

 

[sethAdams]

your local dealer should be able to look up the part # for you for the light switch and harness kit you just cut out the old wires at the back of the plug and soder the wires back together. after you do that i would recomend putting your headlights and marker lights on relays. putting the headlights on a relay also tends to make them alot brighter which is an added plus

 

[RDelissen]

thanks for the all the info guys/gals!

The good thing is that the cables coming out of the connector didn't melt together (guess I just caught it in time :-laf )

 

[JOdell]

Seth, What size relay do you use? and where would you install it? Down close to the lights? I don't have a problem with my lights yet sure would be nice to "nip it in the bud"

-Jason

 

[sethAdams]

Seth, What size relay do you use? and where would you install it? Down close to the lights? I don't have a problem with my lights yet sure would be nice to "nip it in the bud"

-Jason

I have 2 relays in for the headlights their 30A relays one for the highbeams and one for the lowbeams Mine are installed a little differently then you would do yours unless you have a plow installed. I put my relays in right before the plow relays that switch power between the truck lights and the plow lights so that both would be supplied power direct from the battery. heres a good website that talks about adding the relays http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html

 

[dtygart]

Just installed my third light switch, this time with Summit relays and harness. I can't believe how much brighter headlights are! I already had the Dodge recall switch/connector/pigtails installed. This time Dodge won't do anything for me... they say it is not a "lifetime recall". Duh... they know there is an ongoing problem but won't stand behind it??? This time I am going to replace the one burned wire in the loom, instead of all the pigtails; I lucked out in that the socket was not burned.

 

[RDelissen]

just ordered my light switch and connectors (pigtail) today so I should be able to install it Wednesday night together with the Summit relay kit.



Where did you guys all wire the relay kit into the actual switch? (haven't looked at the diagram yet )

 

[WDaniels]

Just for giggles and grins, it's recall 819. Be sure to use the shrink tubing they provide in the kit for the connections. Its real important to do so because as they shrink in the heat, they release a glue type substance to seal out the air to prevent corrosion and in turn high resistance.

WD

 

[rweis]

The Summit kit basically takes the power from the battery terminals and their relays are up at the headlight end. They only use the OEM headlight harness to run their relays. I've had it installed for about 1 1/2 years and it works well.



Good idea about the running lights. My "headlight" switch still gets warm with panel light dimming. Think I will get the running lights off the switch as well to keep it cooler.



Soap Box:



Isn't it "fun" to re-engineer production consumer systems. I would have traded this DC "assembly" called a truck if it weren't for TDR and the Cummins. So far totally rebuilt the fuel system (the tank is the only thing from DC). Add the headlight, running light system to that. Oh, and the ETC transmission. Did someone say the 5 speed "nut"? Dowel Pin? 4x4 Death Wobble? (At least I do not have to deal with these things).



Still OEM is the frame, radiator, intercooler, steering, cab, A/C, drive line, axles (Mag-Hytec cover), brakes, generator, battery(s). Bombing not their responsibility!



So you get disgusted and get a (Ford, GMC, xxx) and then you get to figuer out which of their systems is flawed. At least there is TDR and we can all figuer out how to re-engineer the systems together. The "other" boards are not near as well run as TDR! AND MANY MANY THANKS to all the moderators for that! as well as the LONG nights keeping the system running.



I think the key to buying ANY vehicle is HOW STRONG the USER BOARDS like TDR, are so you can get help when you need it.



Next vehicle (if ever) will be a Dodge Diesel because of TDR not the dealer, not the "warrantee", not the style, not the HP, not the torque, not the "consumer guide reports", not the "body style", not the xxx "engineering advances", not - well you get the point.



Thanks for the vent



Bob Weis