2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Front 4WD driveshaft

[kenny61]

The joints finally went and I replaced all 3. Now I have a vibration over 10-15 mph. I pulled the shaft back out and noticed that on the double joint next to the transfer case there is play in between the 2 joints on 1 axis but not the other. Dont now if it makes sense the way I am describing it. The play is not in the u joint itself but in the pin and socket that connects the double joint to the driveshaft. I s this normal are did the bad joint wear out the pin and socket and now it needs to be replaced?

 

[mwilson]

Did you change the ball/bearing unit in it while it was apart????



Or the needles fell out of it while you had it apart and you didn't notice.



It has a row of needles in there where the pin goes just like a u-joint cap does.



Mike.

 

[kenny61]

First time I ever had it apart. Didnt even notice the "pin and socket" the first time. had to take it apart again when it wouldn't straighten out. You have any idea what part # or what you call that ?

Thanks

 

[mwilson]

Prescision 617

Precision # 617.





Found a picture on e-bay so you can see what comes with it...



I get them at NAPA.



PRECISION 617 Universal Joint, Ball Seat Repair Kit | eBay



Mike.

 

[kenny61]

Thank you very much!!!!

 

[cgoder]

Vibration?

I have a vibration only when in 4 wheel drive. Do you think is coming from the front drive shaft?

 

[kenny61]

I would say its a very good possibility as the front driveshaft only spins in 4wd

But that may have changed after 96. You should put your truck info in your sig.

They changed the front axle engagement type in 97 or 98 maybe? I am not sure if the front shafts constantly spin with the "newer" design. but eitehr way carwl under teh truck and give it a good shake and twist to check for bad joints

 

[BigPapa]

We tried replacing those double joints once. Didn't work. I had 3 techs with 65 years combined experience replacing u-joints. Just can't get it back together right. Even Clinard's Drive Line in Nashville doesn't replace the joints, they replace the entire head. The new head is an improved design and seems like it cost @ $250 to have it done.

 

[kenny61]

Just took mine apart I did leave the bearing out. So I'll put it back together right and see what happens

 

[JFought]

i paid a cv/driveline shop $220 to replace all joints including the pin/ball joint.
Balanced, labor and out the door.

 

[WilsonF]

If you changed all of them are they phased correctly?

Floyd

 

[kenny61]

The part mwilson posted about was shot all the bearings were gone. I dont remember seeing them on the floor or I woulda thought something was up. Any way got the new part and upon further inspection I see the boot/cup that attaches to the driveshaft is all cracked and split but cant seem to locate a part or part number. Anyone?

 

[mwilson]

Spicer still offers it, but it is hard to find in the book.



Let me see if I can find it...



Mike.

 

[mwilson]

I think that this is it, what a complete PITA to identify.



A friend called a few years ago and asked me to find the part number as Dodge told him at the time that he had to buy a new driveshaft assembly, you couldn't get the seal by itself... He properly called that BS and put me onto it.



I found it back then but never wrote the part number down after I gave it to him.



Well, after a hour's search I found it again and I am going out to write it in my Dodge notebook this time... .....



Spicer 2-86-418



Picture here...

2-86-418, Seal for double cardan assemblies



There, this proves that it is the right one. Go down the page a ways. .

http://www.actionmachineinc.com/211913X.aspx



I don't know why Spicer can't lay it out like that. They have 3 different books you have to go into to find the parts...



Mike.

 

[kenny61]

Thank you very much. While your here the precision 617 thing. . There is a hole in the back of it looks like the size for a zerk, which there would be no room for, or a plug. there is nothing in the box and Im guessing it should not be left open. (its not a precision Its a spicer or one of teh other big brands, box is at home Im not)

 

[mwilson]

Thank you very much. While your here the precision 617 thing. . There is a hole in the back of it looks like the size for a zerk, which there would be no room for, or a plug. there is nothing in the box and Im guessing it should not be left open. (its not a precision Its a spicer or one of teh other big brands, box is at home Im not)

Ignore it, the cavity behind will be blocked anyways.



There is one model of that assembly Spicer makes that is drilled for a grease fitting ( a non Dodge application) and that would let grease into the needles from the backside when the center section has a grease passage.



I put a little grease in that cavity before installing the bearing into place, then I know that it is full. The excess grease will come out the center as you tap the bearing into place.

 

[mwilson]

Pics so everyone knows how much fun you are having.....

 

[mwilson]

More pictures...

 

[mwilson]

Now that everything is cleaned up, the new needle bearing/seal assembly is in place and the u-joints are installed in the end yoke and tube yoke you need to assemble both parts into the center coupler at the same time. It takes a vise, 2 to 3 hands and common sense plus patience.



I have rebuilt several using the method shown below and no vibrations or issues afterwards.



By the way, this was Seth's front driveline and his rubber dust boot was shot. I offered to get him one but he did not want to wait so I put it together without one. He is a big boy, whatever he wants. Of course if it bothers again you know who will be overhauling it again... ... .....



Mike.

 

[kenny61]

Again, thank you very much!!!!