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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Front axel seal

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) water meth questions

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Front Springs????

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just went to get oil change at dealer and they told me that my front passenger side axel seal is leaking. Now i noticed one that front wheel on the inside (my driveway is at an angle where i park so it leans torward pass. side) i get a drop or so but the dealer said fluid level was good still.

my question is how long can i go with out changing this? almost winter time bet it doens't leak much in the winter. dealer said this is a $400 + job 5. 7 hours. it's not like i could just do one seal the whole thing will be apart i'd have to do bothe seal and i know when i use my 4x4 for the first few times sqweeks so i'd have to take care of the uni. ther while it's off. just abit skinned at present (new baby in house ) just wondering if i can hold off tille spring?
 
If a little bit of oil leak doesn't bother you I would not worry about it at this time. I drove mine for almost a year with a leaky front axle seal.
 
mine has leaked for the last few years. it has sealed up on it's own a few times, too. just check your fluid levelsevery few months. it'll be fine.
 
Front axle seal ??

Good timing I am in the process of changing my right front seal on my 2000 2500 4wd. It started leaking about two weeks ago now it's to the point I can't stand it anymore.



Has anyone tackled this job ?? So far I am struggling with the wheel bearing assembly it does not want to come off. I have the new seal, and axle shaft bushings however I am not sure what I'm in for until I get the wheel bearing off and pull the axle from the housing.



Any advice out there ???????
 
I have had both sides replaced at the dealer(under warranty) first the driver side then about 3 months later the passenger side, Now it looks like it is leaking again on the passenger side.
 
I used a 3 jaw puller on the drivers side, and pulled, and pulled, and finally separated the bearing.

I fought with trying to pound on a bolt head but really could only reach 2 of the 4 from the backside, plus it never moved. Rusted tight. I think probably alot of them are.

I ended up just using my slitter wheel on my angle grinder to cut the ball joints. Next I pulled the whole knuckle assembly off and flipped it over on the concrete floor. Then you can really get at the 4 bolt holes that hold the bearing assembly to the knuckle. Support the assembly with some 2X4's. I made a special long bolt that threaded into the holes that I could hit on with my hammer. Couple of smacks with a 10lb sledge and it came apart. Did the same process of cutting the ball joints on the passenger side. All in all it was a real pain. Just make sure to paint everything with anti-sieze when you re assemble it.

Of course if you don't want to replace the ball joints while youve got it tore down, this won't work.
 
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