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Front axle center shaft

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TRAMPLINEMAN

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Does anyone know how to remove the front axle center shaft? I’m changing the gears in my truck and while I have the front end apart I’d like to change the bearing on the center shaft.
 
Will it not slide out of the axle tube once the outer shaft and the actuator are removed?

I've not done this on my 4th gen but that's how it was on my older trucks (86 and 00).
 
Will it not slide out of the axle tube once the outer shaft and the actuator are removed?

I've not done this on my 4th gen but that's how it was on my older trucks (86 and 00).
Well, it does once you figure out how to get the bearing off, it does not fit thru the tube. Allegedly, it’s supposed to slide off the shaft with minimal effort. That, was not the case here.
 
your going to attempt the gears but dont know how to get the short shaft out ?
shaft is the easiest part of the whole job my freind
Ah, no, you are completely wrong on that. That center shaft has been the hardest part of the whole task. I had to pound that shaft all the way out with an 8 pound sledge hammer. That bearing did not want to come off.
 
normally you wouldnt need a 8lb sledge so something must be a miss. personally i would of took a step back and had a second look before beating the tar out of it
 
you pulled the driver side shaft out and put a bar through the driver side axle tube and carrier then hit out the short shaft ?
was there any rust on the shaft preventing it from sliding out of the bearing ? any heat marks on the bearing that may have caused it to seize on the shaft ? did you mic the bearing ID and shaft OD for the hek of it ? somethings a miss
 
you pulled the driver side shaft out and put a bar through the driver side axle tube and carrier then hit out the short shaft ?
was there any rust on the shaft preventing it from sliding out of the bearing ? any heat marks on the bearing that may have caused it to seize on the shaft ? did you mic the bearing ID and shaft OD for the hek of it ? somethings a miss
Yes, I ran a bar with a cup I welded on the end of it to slide over the shaft thru the drivers side axle tube. I made a tuning fork like tool to slide into the actuator hole and around the shaft. It fit between the bearing and gear end and prevented the bearing from smashing into the seal housing allowing the shaft itself to slide out the passenger axle tube.
I tried heating the bearing and tapping it off, but got nowhere, fast. Out came the big hammer and persuaded the bearing to come off.
The shaft itself is 39.92mm
Old bearing I.D. is 39.70mm
New bearing I.D. is 39.86mm
That is quite a bit of difference in the bearings. The new bearing went on as it should, just enough resistance to slide it on by hand. There was no rust or heat marks on any of the original parts. My opinion, the I.D. of the original bearing was too small.
 
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16/1000 is huge in the machining world! How well did the old bearing spin once you got it off and was the inner race split? Sounds like there may have been a bad batch of bearings provided along the way and whoever did the assembly, got out the BFH to put together or payed no attention to the pressure reading on the press! A bearing should only need to be tapped on. Sounds like it was an expand type fit. (heat bearing up to fit on shaft) Glad that you've got it out. Have you miked up all the fit points to confirm that there isn't out of spec slope?
 
16/1000 is huge in the machining world! How well did the old bearing spin once you got it off and was the inner race split? Sounds like there may have been a bad batch of bearings provided along the way and whoever did the assembly, got out the BFH to put together or payed no attention to the pressure reading on the press! A bearing should only need to be tapped on. Sounds like it was an expand type fit. (heat bearing up to fit on shaft) Glad that you've got it out. Have you miked up all the fit points to confirm that there isn't out of spec slope?
I spun the old bearing while still on the shaft in the axle housing and it had a bit of drag. Once I got the bearing off, it spun easier. Nothing was split and the bearing actually looked decent. The only measurements I’ve taken are of the two bearings and the collar of the center shaft where the bearing rides. I honestly have no idea what that shaft collar spec is supposed to be, but since the new bearing went on as it should, I’m going to run with it.
 
somethings not adding up. your numbers say the shaft is bigger than the bearing id but it fit together by hand ?
i would expect a slip fit between the shaft and bearing. half thou or so smaller shaft. and the service manual shows the shaft just sliding out with no special tools needed. the bearing to housing looks to be slip fit as well according to the book.
 
somethings not adding up. your numbers say the shaft is bigger than the bearing id but it fit together by hand ?
i would expect a slip fit between the shaft and bearing. half thou or so smaller shaft. and the service manual shows the shaft just sliding out with no special tools needed. the bearing to housing looks to be slip fit as well according to the book.
Yup, I made it all up just so you could call me a liar.
 
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