2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Front axle seal question

[Berrigan]

What do you all think. The last few months after a turn I can hear a thumping noise in the front end that seems to follow tire rpm. After a while of going straight it stops. Front wheel bearings feel fine in the air. Front axle u-joints at the spindle have no play (but that is where I think my noise is comming from. ) Now I have developed a gear oil leak on the axle seal on the drivers side. Some times there is a 6 inch puddle after 8 hours, and sometimes there is not even a drop after 24 hours. Question, do you think if the front u-joints are going bad that sometimes when stopped the axle is tweaked to one side (because of bad u-joint) and that pulls the axle over enough to distort the seal and cause a leak. Then sometimes the axle happens to be in a true position when stopped and the seal is not being pushed on (tweaked) and doesnt leak that time? Am I making sence? Bill

 

[n7gxz]

Bill,



I would agree with your statement. It sounds like you have a bad u-joint. Have you tried jacking up the drivers side and then checking the u-joint? With the wheel on the ground it may still have the u-joint just enough to make it look like it is OK.



Kevin

 

[Berrigan]

Bill,



I would agree with your statement. It sounds like you have a bad u-joint. Have you tried jacking up the drivers side and then checking the u-joint? With the wheel on the ground it may still have the u-joint just enough to make it look like it is OK.



Kevin

Yes ive checked it on the ground and in the air. It has no apparent play but ive been told it still may be bad. A Dodge mechanic told me that when they get noisy they can still run for a long time so I could put off the repair for a while, then the seal started leaking. -------------So would you agree that changing the seal only would just be a waste of time? Bill

 

[Joe G.]

If you have it up on axle stands turn the wheels by hand with them straight ahead and hard over. If you have a bad axle U-joint you should be able to feel it when you rotate the wheel with it hard over and not so much straight ahead.

 

[n7gxz]

With the amount of work you will go through to change the seal, you have to take the axle shaft out anyway, you might just as well change out the u-joint. By the way to change out the seal on the drivers side you will also have to put the passanger side as well so change out the seal at least on that side too.



Kevin

 

[Berrigan]

Thanks for the replies guys. Bill

 

[GKainz]

With the amount of work you will go through to change the seal, you have to take the axle shaft out anyway, you might just as well change out the u-joint. By the way to change out the seal on the drivers side you will also have to put the passanger side as well so change out the seal at least on that side too.



Kevin

Are you saying that you have to pull the passenger side axle (not the seals) to change the driver side seal? Just want to clarify, as I had the passenger side seal replaced last year, and looking at a possible driver side seal replacement soon when I redo the front brakes. Just want to make sure nothing in replacing driver's side seals affects the passenger side seals.

 

[n7gxz]

Are you saying that you have to pull the passenger side axle (not the seals) to change the driver side seal? Just want to clarify, as I had the passenger side seal replaced last year, and looking at a possible driver side seal replacement soon when I redo the front brakes. Just want to make sure nothing in replacing driver's side seals affects the passenger side seals.

Correct, you have to pull the passenger side axle (both pieces). To change the driver side seal. The ring carrier has to be dropped out which requires the axle shaft to be removed from both sides.



Kevin

 

[Nate]

To replace the seals you need to pull the axle apart. You might be able to do the passenger's side without doing that, but it would harder.



Everything comes off but the knuckles and the pinion. You need to disco 1 tie end of the tie rod, pull the carrier out, etc.



It's alot of work. I think the book called for 7-8hrs.

 

[sg5054]

You know, I was feeling pretty good a few minutes ago. Just rebuilt the solenoid on the starter and noticed a bit of oil on the end of the axle so I thought I would sniff around a bit and see what TDR had to say about axle seals... .....

Now I'm depressed and think I'l go pour myself a drink... ... ... .

 

[San Felipe Bob]

Awe cheer up it's not that bad!

:{



If you have a Saturday available and enough tools to pull the axles out.

You can do it!

However!

I suggest giving Quad 4x4 a call and getting his seal installers along with 2 seals for each side.

I ruined 1 seal before i figured out how to getter done.



If you are unsure of your ability call Dan at Quad4x4.com.





SFB

 

[sg5054]

You know, everything looks so much better now..... hic



I got the tools and the skill I'm not that worried about it. Just don't feel like rolling around on the ground for a day. I'm starting a new 30 x 38 garage in a week or so. I think i'll put it off until it's done if it doesn't get any worse.

 

[DieselDoghouse]

I think you can prob'ly wait - I had a leaking seal for 20K or so (after the shop got done!!). It'll be much nicer to work on a shop floor than in that downeast durt (got family in York and friend up in Warren). Oh, be aware not all the trucks of our vintage had carriers wedged into the pumpkin. Mine came out with one pull - on my hand @#$!!!

 

[Extreme1]

Another cause could be bad ball joints that are allowing the spindle to move. This would move the axle out of position and let some oil past the seal. At least that's what I'm telling myself until I know that I need to do the axle seals since I just did the ball joints on the driver side...

 

[sg5054]

I'll keep an eye on it and the oil level. I think I'll get in touch with quad and get the parts together early.



I'm headed to Thomaston and Rockland today. Was in K'bunkport and Kittery yesterday. Crowds didn't seem as big as they should be big the idiot drivers were out in force. #@$%!

 

[Nate]

I've been all over the neck of the woods. Maine Yankee, the jail in Thomaston, Fisher plow factory in Rockland...

I grew up in Van Buren, parents still live there, brother lives in Houlton.

 

[sg5054]

I'll be polite and not inquire as to your time in Thomaston... ... ... ...



I cover this state for work so I get to see a good bit of it. Haven't been up to the county yet though. I keep stalling, especially with the cost of fuel. Now 2. 99/g everywhere and spotted 3. 05 twice yesterday.

 

[Carolina Cummins1]

I was reading and noticed the same problem with my 01. The driver side will shutter when the brakes are applied and now my axle seal is leaking.



My shutter started when I had both a front brake job. Both rotors turned (glazed not warped) and new brake pads installed. It feels like the wheel out of round or the rotors are warped bad.



I've read about the guides on the front pads sticking and causes the shutter. So, I sprayed some PB Blaster on the guides through the wheel and backside. It worked!!!! the brakes are smooth again. After a week, it starts shuttering again, repeat the PB Blaster and smooth again.



I also noticed if I pull a trailer it brakes smooth without shutter??? I think the extra rear weight opens the proportional valve making the rear brakes to brake more instead of the front. I also think the mechanic squeezed the calipers close without opening the vent causing uneven braking between front and rear now.



It's either the guides or the proportional valve, I think for me.

 

[DieselDoghouse]

AYUH, Guess they CAHN get theah from heah! (they're heah alright!!) ;-)