2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Front Axle Seal Question

[chazj]

I recently had my truck serviced by a Dodge dealership. The tech stated that I had a "front axle seal leak" as there was old oil/crud on the driver side front axle knuckle assembly at the wheel. What he described on that assembly has looked that way for years... kinda like the oil film/crud on the fan that has developed (I assume) is from the oil fumes, etc that come from the neoprene collection bottle in that area.



I took it to a independent driveline specialist & he stated that there was no evidence of a leak. No fresh oil visible from the axle tube & stated that I should see oil on the ground where the truck is parked. There is none.



The fact that Dodge has continually noted that the front differential has always been "Full" would perhaps indicate that the "tech was wrong" and "independent shop right"????? I want to believe the independent shop for obvious reasons... but can't afford the tech to be right!



Opinions most welcome.



Thanks...

 

[Dave M]

I just replaced my front axle seals on my 97. They started leaking after I replaced my rotors. When I replaced the rotors the rotor/hub comes off as an assembly and then the rotor is separated from the hub on the ground. During this process the axle came out with the rotor. Since the rubber lip seal on axle seals are old, once the rubber is deformed it may take time to re-seal around the axle. Sometimes it doesn't or the rubber lip was damaged during the axle install and they will leak.



They will leak if the diff fluid is overfilled. I have read many posts on filling it 3/4 inch below the fill plug or it will leak out. When mine was leaking (it was the drivers side) it leaked very little. I constantly checked the fluid level unrtil after 8 months I decided to fix it. It will usually stop leaking after a few weeks but I was not that leaky.



When mine leaked it would appear wet on the lower ball joint and may drip onto the ground. From your description it doesn't sound like it is leaking since it is not freshly wet looking. If you think it leaks then clean the area off real good and inspect it every now and then for leaks. If you park your truck tipping toward the leak side it may come out of the axle housing quicker so you will see it. I've attached a pic of the wet leak from the axle seal:

 

[SRath]

So how tough was it to replace your seals, Dave? I will be pulling my axle shafts for new u-joints when I do the ball joints this week and I would prefer to replace the seals then and be done with it.

Scott

 

[TBartlett1]

Replacing the seals is a fairly big deal.

Both front axles need to be removed because the differential carrier also needs to be removed in order to replace the seals.

The seals are installed from inside the differential housing.

If the oil level is not going down I would not worry. Even if they are leaking it is very slow leak if the level is not going down.

Unless you can't sleep at night over this I'd leave it alone.

I would believe the independent, dealerships are looking for work necessary or not!

One additional note; when you re-install the axles try to keep the end of the axle on the top of the tube which is cleaner than the bottom as you reinstall the axle shafts.

If you push the axle in with the end plowing along the bottom any rust or dirt that is in the tube will be pushed ahead of the axle and into the differential & could cause further damage to the seals.

 

[kenny61]

So how tough was it to replace your seals, Dave? I will be pulling my axle shafts for new u-joints when I do the ball joints this week and I would prefer to replace the seals then and be done with it.



Scott

There pretty easy to do if you know which end of wrench is which



Front Axle Tech

 

[Dave M]

'Srath' regarding how easy are the axle seals I'd say it's not something I'd want to do again but probably the worst part is getting the hubs off. that's about half of the job or more. If you are pulling both axles to do the u-joints I'd do the seal since there is a big chance they will leak if you don't.



Pulling the axles would require cleaning out the axle housings of sand and dirt prior to installing, or you will drag dirt into the seals when inserting the axles and cause a leak, since it is impossible to insert the axle without the end dragging in the housing. It is easier to clean the axle housing with the Diff gears out (drivers side) and CAD housing removed (passenger side).



The drivers side axle seal is in the differential. To replace that seal requires removing all the axles (drivers side axle, intermediate passenger side axle between diff and CAD, and passenger side outer axle between the CAD housing and passenger side knuckle). After all axles are removed then the differential ring and carrier gears are popped out of the diff to get to the drivers side axle seal. With all that done it easy to clean the axle housing from inside out on both CAD and diff side. I spent a lot of time and 5 cans brake cleaner doing that.



Removing the axle seal was pretty easy. I used a broom handle and inserted it from knuckle side into housing on both driver and passenger side. Inserting axle seal straight is the hard part especially on passenger side were there is limited space to work in the small CAD housing. You can make a tool or I chose and recommend buy the axle seal kit with seal installers for both seals from Quad 4x4. The kit came with 2 of each seal and a precisely machined seal installer for each seal. It was way cool to install each seal once and know it was inserted properly and I will not have any problems with proper sealing of the seal. It was real easy to do with the tool and it came with very detailed instructions for the whole job including pics.



Any more questions I'd be glad to help.



See the pics I inserted in this thread showing the 3 axles and CAD out of the vehicle:



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...s-replacement-99-2500-4x4-hub-assy-too-6.html



Dave