Front axle U-Joints

[CIverson]

I've had my hubs off probably more than most anyone here, and the socket and extension method has always worked very well. Loosen the hub bolts, and put a socket and extension on the bolt, and force it against a solid portion of the axle w/ the power steering, repeat on the other side and once broken loose it is easy as pie.

 

[JCasper]

I've had my hubs off probably more than most anyone here, and the socket and extension method has always worked very well. Loosen the hub bolts, and put a socket and extension on the bolt, and force it against a solid portion of the axle w/ the power steering, repeat on the other side and once broken loose it is easy as pie.

Maybe once I start doing it I will understand better as to what you are talking about.

 

[CIverson]

Maybe once I start doing it I will understand better as to what you are talking about.

There are 4 bolts on the back of the knuckle. Loosen them out so the end of the bolt is flush with the outside face of the hub (you can't see threads sticking through the front side anymore).



Then take a socket and extension and put it on the head of the bolt. You can line it up with a solid flat portion of the control arm bracket or something, and turn the steering wheel so the extension hits that bracket, and you turn the wheel some more to put pressure on the bolt head. It will push on it pushing the hub out a little in one corner. Then do it on the other side (I usually just do this on the top 2 bolts) and you can use a small prybar to easily get it out.



THe first time will take a bit more pressure than later, make sure to coat the inside of the knuckle opening w/ antisieze before reassembling.

 

[JCasper]

There are 4 bolts on the back of the knuckle. Loosen them out so the end of the bolt is flush with the outside face of the hub (you can't see threads sticking through the front side anymore).



Then take a socket and extension and put it on the head of the bolt. You can line it up with a solid flat portion of the control arm bracket or something, and turn the steering wheel so the extension hits that bracket, and you turn the wheel some more to put pressure on the bolt head. It will push on it pushing the hub out a little in one corner. Then do it on the other side (I usually just do this on the top 2 bolts) and you can use a small prybar to easily get it out.



THe first time will take a bit more pressure than later, make sure to coat the inside of the knuckle opening w/ antisieze before reassembling.

Sounds good. I hope to be taking a look at it tonight.

 

[05mxdiesel]

Extension and steering trick is very easy. Knocking out the original balljoints was the hardest for me.

 

[JCasper]

Extension and steering trick is very easy. Knocking out the original balljoints was the hardest for me.

Do I have to pull the balljoints to get the axle out?



I didn't think so.

 

[rbattelle]

Do I have to pull the balljoints to get the axle out?

No, you don't.



Ryan

 

[JCasper]

No, you don't.



Ryan

That's good, thanks

 

[rbattelle]

I should note, however, that you will have to tug on the axle pretty hard to get it out of the tube, particularly on the passenger side. This is normal - the axle seal is tight.

And, of course, be sure to put some good grease on the axle before putting it back in the tube.

Ryan

 

[Udaloy]

Front right lasted about 45k, and the front left about 65k. If I hadn't read rbattelle's post on how to remove the hub, I would have paid the dealer to do it. I broke a puller before searching on TDR (lesson learned!). Had a rear drive shaft joint go bad at like 20k. The dealer used factory replacement on just one joint. I replaced all of them myself with Spicer's from Rock Auto. I don't know how these joints can go bad so quickly.

 

[JCasper]

Well I forgot my 3/4" socket set when I went to my Dads so I couldn't get the nut off the hub.



I pulled the caliper, rotors and rear drive shaft off.



The rear shaft seems to be in pretty good shape except for the rubber being in really bad shape around the carrier bearing. I'm not sure if I should have the rear driveline rebuilt still or not.



I will hopefully head back out to my Dad's shop tomorrow night to try and pull the hubs and axles. My Dad has a couple of different pullers that we will put to use.

 

[05mxdiesel]

Do I have to pull the balljoints to get the axle out?



I didn't think so.

I was just saying that because everyone talks about how hard it is to get the hub broken free which was pretty easy for me, and really easy now that they both have anti-seize on them. The hubs took 5 min tops with a helper running the extension and socket while I was doing the steering.

 

[JCasper]

I was just saying that because everyone talks about how hard it is to get the hub broken free which was pretty easy for me, and really easy now that they both have anti-seize on them. The hubs took 5 min tops with a helper running the extension and socket while I was doing the steering.

Gotcha



Are you guys removing the big nut and cotter pin? Someone mentioned leaving that on, I thought it had to come off.

 

[05mxdiesel]

To seperarate the axle from the unit bearing assembly the nut must be taken off. FYI, I took the wheel off and had the truck running to utilize pwr brakes and broke it loose that way after I broke a 3/4 inch extension. Also, the only time I used a gear puller was to seperate the bearing from the axle the first time on both sides. Grease the splines so the next time it pulls off easy.



If I was just doing bj's you don't have to seperate them, but with u-joints it will be easier if you do.

 

[JCasper]

To seperarate the axle from the unit bearing assembly the nut must be taken off. FYI, I took the wheel off and had the truck running to utilize pwr brakes and broke it loose that way after I broke a 3/4 inch extension. Also, the only time I used a gear puller was to seperate the bearing from the axle the first time on both sides. Grease the splines so the next time it pulls off easy.



If I was just doing bj's you don't have to seperate them, but with u-joints it will be easier if you do.

I am going to try and seperate them since I am taking the shafts in to have the U-Joints pressed in.



I already removed the calipers and rotors. After that I was kinda kickin myself. Maybe I will have to put them back on

 

[CIverson]

I am going to try and seperate them since I am taking the shafts in to have the U-Joints pressed in.



I already removed the calipers and rotors. After that I was kinda kickin myself. Maybe I will have to put them back on

FYI: THey make a special socket for removing the Axle nut on the hub.



If you don't have an impact for removing that nut, I would just put the tire back on (leave the caliper off) and lower it till it contacts the ground, easier than playing around w/ the brakes.



I would not try removing the hub from the knuckle with a puller. I did this once on a very stubborn hub (a '98 I had) and separated the hub in two.

 

[05mxdiesel]

I agree with CIverson on no puller on the hub. Jcasper I did the same thing as you did the first time I ever pulled it apart. I put the tire on and used an extension to get past the 35 inch tire. Busted extension, so we raised the truck back up, put the brakes on and did it that way. The impact I had at that time was a cheap one, a good one could possibly break it loose. But it took a 3/4 breaker bar and a 3 ft piece of pipe acting as a cheater bar to break both of them loose.

 

[05mxdiesel]

I bought the socket at sears if you don't already have one.

 

[JCasper]

OK, so no puller. That means that pushing on the bolts from the back by using the power steering works better.



I will put the tire back on and try to break them loose that way.



Hopefully tonight, but if not it will be Saturday.



I have a full Craftsman 3/4" socket set.

 

[JCasper]

Thanks for all the tips.



I left the hub attached to the shaft and just took it all off together.



I used the PS and an extension and socket pushing on the bolts to press it off.



Once I got it off . 100" or so I used a chisel and hammer to drive it off.



The passenger joint was definitely bad. I could only move it one way, it was froze the other way.